B6000 oil pressure question

tow2topgun

New member

Equipment
b6000
Feb 11, 2010
34
0
0
Dallas, Ga
On my B6000, when I crank it up the oil light does not come on. After about 1 minute, it comes on. If I shut it off for about 45 seconds and then re-crank it the light goes off but then comes back on. My oil level correct but she needs a oil change BAD! The fellow that I got it from "bragged" about not changing the oil since 1986! :eek:
His philosophy was since it leaks oil so bad, he just adds oil to it thereby keeping it fresh...
I plan to drain the oil and clean the screen BUT I do not know where the screen it located. Any ideas where it is located? I'm thinking that over 20 years of not cleaning the oil screen has to have drastically reduced the oil flow.
If the pump was bad wouldn't the light stay on at all times vs. Just coming on after 1 minute of run time?
 

traildust

New member

Equipment
B7610HST 4WD, LA352 FEL, Gearmore 2 Spool Top & Tilt Box Scraper
Jan 27, 2010
1,490
1
0
Phelan, California
On my B6000, when I crank it up the oil light does not come on. After about 1 minute, it comes on. If I shut it off for about 45 seconds and then re-crank it the light goes off but then comes back on. My oil level correct but she needs a oil change BAD! The fellow that I got it from "bragged" about not changing the oil since 1986! :eek:
His philosophy was since it leaks oil so bad, he just adds oil to it thereby keeping it fresh...
I plan to drain the oil and clean the screen BUT I do not know where the screen it located. Any ideas where it is located? I'm thinking that over 20 years of not cleaning the oil screen has to have drastically reduced the oil flow.
If the pump was bad wouldn't the light stay on at all times vs. Just coming on after 1 minute of run time?

When you take the oil filler cap off look at the bottom. What does it look like? Chances are it will look like burnt sappy tar.

Remember that engine oil performs several functions. The obvious one is lubricating and reducing friction.
The second that people tend to forget about is a very important one and when ignored will be devastating to an engine.

Think of the oil as a sponge. As the engine operates the crank case becomes a hellish environment. There will be toxic blow by gasses, some micro bits of foreign debris that will always find there way in and an accumulation of moisture. The oil absorbs all of this.
During normal oil changes the drain plug is pulled and all this waste flows out.

After a while the oil will no longer be able to absorb and hold this stuff. The fluid oil becomes the minority and the toxic waste has become the majority. Now the oil's primary function has been jeopardized and can no longer "flow" through all the tiny channels. The small areas back up followed by some of the larger ports.

Sure there may be oil leaks on neglected engines. Most likely it will be from the seals that have been baked and hardened under this hellish environment. Also, as the normal channels for flow become block, the oil will find the path of least resistance. Old seals.

With the original owners point of view, he was adding fresh oil as the old oil was leaving the engine. The problem is that only the lucky bits of oil to escape are getting out. They are leaving every bit of the toxic waste buildup behind them. Sludge.

The engine is going to act strange in all aspects. It doesn't have a choice. Much like a person eating junk food all there life. There arteries will clog and strange things will happen to the body.

Good luck my friend.

Scott
 

dusty-t

New member
Feb 17, 2009
974
2
0
Mountforest Ontario
Hi Guys. Really good explanation Scott. Awesome.All I knew was that an oil change and lube is the cheapest preventative maintenance there is. Thanks.:D Dusty
 

traildust

New member

Equipment
B7610HST 4WD, LA352 FEL, Gearmore 2 Spool Top & Tilt Box Scraper
Jan 27, 2010
1,490
1
0
Phelan, California
Hi Guys. Really good explanation Scott. Awesome.All I knew was that an oil change and lube is the cheapest preventative maintenance there is. Thanks.:D Dusty
Thank you Dusty, compliments from you are quite nice :D

Scott
 

tow2topgun

New member

Equipment
b6000
Feb 11, 2010
34
0
0
Dallas, Ga
I totally understand the importance of oil changes and think the previous owner was psychotic for not changing it. However I can't help what is already done. I can only try to salvage the old girl at this point. It still runs very strong and the motor suprisingly runs good. Except for the oil light. The rear decompression fitting is leaking slightly and it pours out of the bottom. I think it is the front crank seal but I'm not sure. It is running down onto the rubber sleeve that connects the rear drive to the motor. I am planning on taking the front blade off this summer and investigate where it is coming from.
Would any of yall suggest running an engine cleaner such as risoline in the motor prior to changing the oil. I plan on changing it several times back to back to try to get the gunk out. I am concerned that cleaning it too much could lead to big problems such as bigger leaks and loss of compression. Any guidance to cleaning this sludge bucket of a 2 cylinder beast?
Thanks!
 

traildust

New member

Equipment
B7610HST 4WD, LA352 FEL, Gearmore 2 Spool Top & Tilt Box Scraper
Jan 27, 2010
1,490
1
0
Phelan, California
I totally understand the importance of oil changes and think the previous owner was psychotic for not changing it. However I can't help what is already done. I can only try to salvage the old girl at this point. It still runs very strong and the motor suprisingly runs good. Except for the oil light. The rear decompression fitting is leaking slightly and it pours out of the bottom. I think it is the front crank seal but I'm not sure. It is running down onto the rubber sleeve that connects the rear drive to the motor. I am planning on taking the front blade off this summer and investigate where it is coming from.
Would any of yall suggest running an engine cleaner such as risoline in the motor prior to changing the oil. I plan on changing it several times back to back to try to get the gunk out. I am concerned that cleaning it too much could lead to big problems such as bigger leaks and loss of compression. Any guidance to cleaning this sludge bucket of a 2 cylinder beast?
Thanks!
topgun,
I applaud your efforts to bring the old girl to life. Unfortunately, due to the previous owners ignorance, I believe you will get to know the internals of this poorly neglected engine very well.

To be honest that's not a bad thing, it really isn't. Don't be afraid of what lies ahead if you tackle the engine. Any lack of rebuild experience will be made up for by the great members of this forum.

As for stuff like this....



DO NOT USE IT!

Any of the internal engine cleaners have absolutely no lubricating properties. Imagine metal to metal with only kerosene in between the two parts. Worse things will actually happen.

If you are looking for a short term, but still costly one. I suggest repeated oil and filter changes. As many as you can afford every week. But then again the problem will still be with the areas of the engine that are having troubles. Like glazed bearing surfaces and clogged channels.

The internal engine cleaner might get some of the glazing off but at the cost of metal to metal destruction. It really will not do anything for the sludge build up over years of abuse and running at high rpm and temperature.

By the time you are done trying different remedies you could have had that engine out, torn down and put back together.

As far as the engine running good right now. Don't let that trick you too much. Remember that diesels are bullet proof hard running brave little soldiers. They will take all kind of hits until they just can not take one more step. These troopers will die for you.

Just think about the pride of ownership after an engine tear down.
And not to mention you wont be staying up at night worrying about what's going on in there.

Sorry if I'm telling you what you don't want to hear, I really am.
I just think you should bite the bullet, clear an area in the garage and get the wrenches out. You will be so much happier.


Scott
 

tow2topgun

New member

Equipment
b6000
Feb 11, 2010
34
0
0
Dallas, Ga
Thanks for the cold hard truth! I am having a self debate on either putting money into this abused girl or finding one that has been a lot less abused. On the one hand, I got this B6000 for free so it's not like I have anything in it other than some fluids that I have purchased. So it would come down to it being cheaper than buying a dependable one vs. this one. I'm not afraid of turning a wrench and have pretty good knowledge when it comes to working on a gas engine but this is the first diesel that I have ever had.
Just a little bit about the girl is that she has obviously been very neglected. All for wheels and tires need replacing. Both fenders rusted off long ago, the hood has a good bit of rust, the power steering gear box needs rebuilding, etc. Just wish I could get the motor in good sound condition. Any ideas on a cost to rebuild the motor? Parts and machine shop?
 

traildust

New member

Equipment
B7610HST 4WD, LA352 FEL, Gearmore 2 Spool Top & Tilt Box Scraper
Jan 27, 2010
1,490
1
0
Phelan, California
Thanks for the cold hard truth! I am having a self debate on either putting money into this abused girl or finding one that has been a lot less abused. On the one hand, I got this B6000 for free so it's not like I have anything in it other than some fluids that I have purchased. So it would come down to it being cheaper than buying a dependable one vs. this one. I'm not afraid of turning a wrench and have pretty good knowledge when it comes to working on a gas engine but this is the first diesel that I have ever had.
Just a little bit about the girl is that she has obviously been very neglected. All for wheels and tires need replacing. Both fenders rusted off long ago, the hood has a good bit of rust, the power steering gear box needs rebuilding, etc. Just wish I could get the motor in good sound condition. Any ideas on a cost to rebuild the motor? Parts and machine shop?
Thanks for the cold hard truth!
Just a bit of tough love :D

I'd really hate to see you spinning in circles with this tractor always a band aid here and a band aid there and to no avail.

If it's a free tractor than this is your chance for a good restoration. There are some guys on this forum that can offer really great help. They have turned out some truly amazing machines.

The tractor didn't cost you anything up front so now you can just take your time and spend as you go. Of course your wife will just love this idea :D

Remember, if you take really good care of an abused girl, she will love you even more.

Just a suggestion but you could make another thread focused on rebuilding the engine.
One more thing that will help sale your thread is to post pictures. No arm twisting here, it's just the truth. After all, that's the only reason Playboy sales :rolleyes:

Don't give up!

Scott
 

Bellinghamster

Member

Equipment
B7100 with FEL
Nov 25, 2009
55
0
6
Bellingham, WA
Before you tear into things, I suggest you get a mechanical / analog oil pressure gauge, hook it up and see what the oil pressure is really doing. They can be had for about $15 from an auto parts store, and are really useful. I've had several engine I thought were toast then figured out that the oil pressure senders or switches were flaky.
 

John C

Member

Equipment
B7100D, LMC Clipper 400, LMC 4ft Box Blade, NorTrac 47" Tiller
Aug 14, 2009
66
1
6
Elizabethtown, KY
I agree with Bellinghamster don't rely on the idiot light! hook up a mechanical gage and get an accurate oil pressure reading, that will speak volumes about the condition of the engine! Then if it turns out that the oil pressure is low you can begin that photo essay thread that Traildust was talking about!

John