Aesthetically pleasing support for barn lean to fly rafters?

trackman23

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I am looking for suggestions on how to improve the looks of the support for my lean to fly rafters. I have 2’ overhangs all the way around this barn / shop and the lean to rafters are 17’ long.

You can see the two areas in the photo that I am trying to improve the looks of. The “ledger” beam doesn’t bother me too much but if I keep it I will replace it with a pressure treated one. The beam extension at the rafter end is the one I’m not a fan of.

Suggestions welcomed! Thx.
IMG_8460.jpeg
 
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Runs With Scissors

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I would extend both boards all the way across, so it looks like it was part of the original design.
 

Runs With Scissors

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Meaning, add another 2x10 to support the fly rafters and make it look like an original beam?
I don't know how to circle things on my Mac like I do with PC, but

In the upper RH corner, where you circled it, that small 4 footer looks like it was an after thought and it's supporting the last ~2 feet?

Ideally I would try to tear out that original 2x10 and replace it with one that extends out fully.

If that is not an option, then I would "double up" that 2x10 with nails and construction adhesive making sure it extends all the way out.

Then splice a short piece (on the front side nearest the trees) in to make the 1st 2x10 "appear" to look like one piece.

Kind of like you "originally intended" to use a "doubled up 2x10" in the first place. (thats my story and I'm sticking to it :D )
 
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trackman23

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I don't know how to circle things on my Mac like I do with PC, but

In the upper RH corner, where you circled it, that small 4 footer looks like it was an after thought and it's supporting the last ~2 feet?

Ideally I would try to tear out that original 2x10 and replace it with one that extends out fully.

If that is not an option, then I would "double up" that 2x10 with nails and construction adhesive making sure it extends all the way out.

Then splice a short piece (on the front side nearest the trees) in to make the 1st 2x10 "appear" to look like one piece.

Kind of like you "originally intended" to use a "doubled up 2x10" in the first place. (thats my story and I'm sticking to it :D )
Got it. It is already doubled but I can make it a triple and maybe clip 45deg of the bottom outside corner. It would be a pain to replace the beam entirely but the hurricane straps are not on yet...so not impossible.
 

dirtydeed

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You don't need either of them. Not sure why you even put them in.

The ends of the rafters get tied together when you nail up a face board on them.
 
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trackman23

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You don't need either of them. Not sure why you even put them in.

The ends of the rafters get tied together when you nail up a face board on them.
Confusion with the framers. The idea was to eliminate blocking since I didn’t want to see a bunch of blocking but when I came home, I had blocking and beams.
 

dirtydeed

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Confusion with the framers. The idea was to eliminate blocking since I didn’t want to see a bunch of blocking but when I came home, I had blocking and beams.
If that's the case (I thought you did the framing) I'm betting that your framers only put them in temporarily so that they could hang the outboard rafter and nail it in. I'm thinking that they will be removing both of them when finished.
 
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InTheWoods

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I am looking for suggestions on how to improve the looks of the support for my lean to fly rafters. I have 2’ overhangs all the way around this barn / shop and the lean to rafters are 17’ long.

You can see the two areas in the photo that I am trying to improve the looks of. The “ledger” beam doesn’t bother me too much but if I keep it I will replace it with a pressure treated one. The beam extension at the rafter end is the one I’m not a fan of.

Suggestions welcomed! Thx.
Yeah - that does look bad. I've just added extra 'short' 2x4 roof purlins from the fly rafter back one or two rafters. If you have carpenter bees, treat these purlins accordingly - I wrap mine in window screen.

1743088592708.png
 
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Russell King

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I don’t think this is what you’re really asking about but search “rafter tail designs“ and see if that can resolve the issue. If you have open tails it would improve the looks there but nay be difficult to cut now they are up.

You should see something like this…
IMG_0309.png
 

dirtydeed

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Wait. Can we clean up the confusion here? I'm assuming that the OP was referring to the scabbed 2x's that are supporting the outermost rafter identified in the red circles...correct?

Those are temporary supports/guides for attaching the outermost rafter (the face/overhang). It's much easier to nail it in while supported (by the scabs) at both ends.

I'm quite certain that they wont be permanent.

edit, just saw your note about the blocking. Yes, the blocking would need to stay in place.
 
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trackman23

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Wait. Can we clean up the confusion here? I'm assuming that the OP was referring to the scabbed 2x's that are supporting the outermost rafter identified in the red circles...correct?

Those are temporary supports/guides for attaching the outermost rafter (the face/overhang). It's much easier to nail it in while supported (by the scabs) at both ends.

I'm quite certain that they wont be permanent.

edit, just saw your note about the blocking. Yes, the blocking would need to stay in place.
Correct. I am referring to the 2x6 that was scabbed onto the beam and the 2x6 sticking out from the corner of the barn.
 

BAP

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If that was done by a builder and not yourself, I would be seriously questioning their building skills. That looks like it was done by a first grader with no prior building skills.
 

Dustball

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have to ask what's the horizontal chimney for IN the carport ?
I have a gas heater in the garage which was in place for years before the lean-to was built. I did extend and turn the vent using two 45 degree elbows up and went through the new lean-to roof after the picture was taken four years ago. The termination is now 10 feet away from the windows above the roof.

1743258621173.png
 
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