Recent content by JasonW

I would start with the clutch pedal adjustment, and hope that’s all it needs. How many hours are on it? Definitely don’t keep letting it “move and pick up some speed” you’re just burning the clutch up more.

Update. Well after three sets of seals the leak was actually worse than before, It was about 1/2 gallon every hour. Upon disassembly the nylon o-ring was damaged every time, they were put together lubricated and centered. All surfaces were smooth so I’m not sure what was happening. Time and...

I bought used because of the price difference. And I found a nice pre emissions model. I wouldn’t pass up an emissions model either as they have been out long enough. If the total price(including financing) is that close most would say go new. And factor in the depreciation for tax purposes...

Going off your first post, it will move uphill only in 4wd? But not in 2wd?

It’s best to have a helper using this method. The only time my shop vacuum pulled oil into the hose(did not make it into the shop vac itself) was on my ZD331.

For sale. 2018 Lexus GX460 4wd Premium White exterior with black leather, 3rd row. Rear bench seat, rear heat and A/C. Factory tow package 67k miles. New battery, windshield and Nitto all terrain tires only a few months old. Needs nothing $32k Title in hand. Located on Mobile Al. Can...

Following. Wish I would have known about the sale on these before I bought mine a few weeks ago. I was able to get 5% off but every bit adds up.

Cut down the PTO shaft? Are you trying to use the top link with the auger? All the 3pt ones I’ve seen you don’t use the top link. The auger attaches in place of the top link.

Added a support brace to the underside of the manifold. Very little flex pulling or pushing on the hoses. Minor grip with this setup is locking collars on the couplers are hard to push/pull to connect/disconnect. They are spaced close together to keep the block compact but I would see this...

Behind the cover is access to the fuel tank drain.

The control grip posted above will be used on the rear remote lever. Not the FEL lever.

So far I’ve only used it with my box blade. With 2 activated (rippers and top link) both cylinders will move but it go path of least resistance first so they would all be parallel. In other recent post, I do not have a quick hitch. So I wanted a maintained on switch for my hydraulic top link...

Using the switch box that came with it. I mounted it near the cup holder under the right side armrest. Tucked out of the way but still accessible. And I got power from the work light circuit.

I could. Although I was out of hardware and it didn’t leave the solenoids as exposed from the top. I could have put the oem toolbox on the left and the multiplier on the right on top but originally I didn’t want it up that high.

Got the hoses made up this morning and put together. Hooked up my box blade, it works as advertised and definitely more cost effective and adding more factory remotes unless a different type is needed. When unhooking I did have to relive pressure on the lines with the engine off, as they do not...