New owner of an old tractor

[Crockodotsky]

Thought I would introduce myself as a first time owner of a tractor. Just bought this B8200 for an old hillside tobacco farm in VA.

My first job is to get a rotary cutter/bush hog to maintain the cleared parts of the property. But I don't know where to begin with regards to PTO shaft length and configurations. Are PTO shafts all universal?

As a newbie here, please let me know if there is a particular forum for my model or for new guys. I've got a lot to learn,

Thx

 

[chim]

Welcome aboard! Generally, the PTO shaft comes along with the mower. There are parameters for minimum 6" overlap of the sections when at its longest position, and it's important to NOT have the shaft so long that it binds with the mower raised. The shafts I've had were all constructed so they'd only slide together in the correct "clocked" position so the U-joints were correct.

 

[jyoutz]

Research fitting a pto shaft. There are lots of online videos that show how to measure and cut if necessary.

 

[old and tired]

Usually, the shaft are longer than needed, and you cut them to length. With that said, I'm guessing you are going to be looking for a used mower and chances are pretty good that it will be near the correct length. Hook up the bush hog to your tractor WITHOUT the PTO connected. Then lay or line up the PTO next to the shaft that is connected to the mower. You can measure the overlap. Normally you want 6" but I've gone as short as 4" and have not had a problem.

If you are on hilly ground, you don't have a Roll Over Protection Structure (ROPS). I would try and find a used one! Keep your bucket as close to the ground until you get a ROPS.

 

[Crockodotsky]

Usually, the shaft are longer than needed, and you cut them to length. With that said, I'm guessing you are going to be looking for a used mower and chances are pretty good that it will be near the correct length. Hook up the bush hog to your tractor WITHOUT the PTO connected. Then lay or line up the PTO next to the shaft that is connected to the mower. You can measure the overlap. Normally you want 6" but I've gone as short as 4" and have not had a problem.

If you are on hilly ground, you don't have a Roll Over Protection Structure (ROPS). I would try and find a used one! Keep your bucket as close to the ground until you get a ROPS.

WOW, great advice. This property is VERY steep. I'll start searching for one ASAP. Thx

 

[old and tired]

WOW, great advice. This property is VERY steep. I'll start searching for one ASAP. Thx

Where about in So. Western VA? There is a used tractor place off of I-81 that I drive past when heading to Chattanooga.... need to look it up

Abingdon Equipment Co; 19138 Lee Hwy, Abingdon, VA 24210

 

[PoTreeBoy]

WOW, great advice. This property is VERY steep. I'll start searching for one ASAP. Thx

With ROP you should also get a seatbelt. I found a replacement for my L35 on eBay. They're not the same as auto belts.

 

[Bee-Positive]

As O&T said above - GET A ROPS!!! Even on semi-level ground I've had seat puckering moments with a full bucket just a "little" too high. By the time my brain registers the situation it's almost too late. This is especially true as you become "comfortable" on your tractor. You have to think ahead about what you're going to do and how you're going to do it. Like riding my motorcycle and having that little bit of paranoia in the back of your mind that everyone is out to get you.

Being new myself to fitting a PTO shaft I found a good video from "Tractor Time With Tim" on you-tube that explains the procedure very simply in a way I was able to understand. It's quite easy actually.

 

[D2Cat]

There is a member here, "Mountainman". He has a tractor salvage yard, I think in Ga. and he may have a ROPS for a B8200.

On the PTO shaft, to clarify checking the length have the shaft separated, one end will be attached to the mower and the other to the PTO (totally slid on and engaged). Of course the tractor is no running!!!! Hold the two halves up side by side and then see how much they would overlap if they were connected. If it is not enough engagement you'll need a different shaft. It it is too long you need to cut a bit off of EACH shaft equally.

 

[Flintknapper]

Another consideration (not yet mentioned) concerning choice of a PTO drive shaft is configuration. The 'length' has been discussed here already.

You'll need to know the configurtation of the input shaft on the gear-head of the rotary mower you purchase. Some are splined (usually 1-3/8" x 6 spline) and others are round/smooth and use a shear bolt.

So....a PTO might be splined both ends, or splined one end and smooth the other end. Some use a clutch to absorb shock if something solid is hit, others utilize a shear bolt.

 

[jaxs]

That you ask about pto sends chills down my spine. Of people injured and killed by tractors in my area;
A. More were killed by pto and pto operated equipment than all other issues combined.
B. Of all serious injuries,including lose of limbs, pto was the main cause with rotory cutter being #1.

Never leave pto egaged when getting off tractor.
Never leave tractor seat until pto has stopped.
Never approach nor allow others to approach tractor while pto driven implement is running.
And for heaven's sake do not give joy rides on tractor unless tractor has a cab and passengers are inside the cab.

Now,have your dealer help you fit the shaft.

 

[Crockodotsky]

All great advice Gentlemen, many thanks for the quick responses. It's good to know this forum is so active.

I'll reach out to Mountain Man. Not sure why someone would remove the ROPS in the first place.

 

[Mountainman]

There is a member here, "Mountainman". He has a tractor salvage yard, I think in Ga. and he may have a ROPS for a B8200.

On the PTO shaft, to clarify checking the length have the shaft separated, one end will be attached to the mower and the other to the PTO (totally slid on and engaged). Of course the tractor is no running!!!! Hold the two halves up side by side and then see how much they would overlap if they were connected. If it is not enough engagement you'll need a different shaft. It it is too long you need to cut a bit off of EACH shaft equally.

Thank you

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Not sure why someone would remove the ROPS in the first place.

Nice older tractor! Good score!

ROPS is a late 1970s and mid 1980s deal. Deaths and lawsuits happened and ROPS became required.

Folks with flatland and orchards dump them because they damage trees with low hanging branches.

My first Kubota was a mid 1970's B7100 and it did not have a ROPS.

Being that you are steep terrain, and if you are very concerned of roll over; Get a ROPS, or have a roll cage welded on with bolt removal points. If you don't need the loader and are only brush hogging with the tractor; Maybe take the loader off completely and sell it. Many will want it and it raises your center of gravity.

 

[Crockodotsky]

Nice older tractor! Good score!

ROPS is a late 1970s and mid 1980s deal. Deaths and lawsuits happened and ROPS became required.

Folks with flatland and orchards dump them because they damage trees with low hanging branches.

My first Kubota was a mid 1970's B7100 and it did not have a ROPS.

Being that you are steep terrain, and if you are very concerned of roll over; Get a ROPS, or have a roll cage welded on with bolt removal points. If you don't need the loader and are only brush hogging with the tractor; Maybe take the loader off completely and sell it. Many will want it and it raises your center of gravity.

My son and sort of bought it together. He bought the big trailer and I bought the tractor. He wanted the bucket, I didn't but after using it just for a few minutes here in Florida, I cleared up a bunch of storm damage in a hurry.

I looked to see where a ROPS would bolt on and only found holes in the fenders. Seems like it would need to mount to a frame or transmission or something more solid than sheet metal. Thx.

 

[old and tired]

....Seems like it would need to mount to a frame or transmission...

Directly to the rear axle, usually with 3 sets of bolts...