MX5400 drawbar hitch pin siz

[Hatcoleman]

New MX5400 being delivered. Can’t fine size for drawbar hitch pin. Can anyone tell me correct size ? Want to make sure I have correct size. May be different than my other tractor.

 

[McMXi]

New MX5400 being delivered. Can’t fine size for drawbar hitch pin. Can anyone tell me correct size ? Want to make sure I have correct size. May be different than my other tractor.

The hole at the end of the drawbar on an MX is 33mm or 1.3" in diameter. Nice tractor by the way.

 

[Hatcoleman]

Thank you very much. Have searched for two days trying to find answer. And you gave it to me in few minute.

The hole at the end of the drawbar on an MX is 33mm or 1.3" in diameter.

 

[Gaspasser]

While we are on the topic of drawbars, are shorter drawbars available? My L6060 (class II) drawbar interferes with the PTO shaft on the 3 pt sand spreader. The drawbar is needed to hold the front snowblower subframe in place.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Hmm, the drawbar for my other orange tractor has 2 holes, so it's 'adjustable'. Maybe just drill a hole where you want it to be? If you don't have the correct drill bit, take to a 'machine shop' that can do it ?

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

While we are on the topic of drawbars, are shorter drawbars available? My L6060 (class II) drawbar interferes with the PTO shaft on the 3 pt sand spreader. The drawbar is needed to hold the front snowblower subframe in place.

I’m not sure I understand your trouble…Mine slides in for when not in use but i can remove completely…maybe just pull it out completely when it’s in the way. I would not cut it down…even though that’s a way to get a shorter one.

 

[Gaspasser]

I’m not sure I understand your trouble…Mine slides in for when not in use but i can remove completely…maybe just pull it out completely when it’s in the way. I would not cut it down…even though that’s a way to get a shorter one.

Thanks Grumpy. I'm not at the hill right now so I can't send pics so I'll try my best to describe issue. The draw bar has to be slid forward to lock the rear of the snowblower subframe in place. It only goes so far into the subframe before it hits the transmission. The other side of the drawbar extends out under the PTO shaft for the 3 point sander. If I keep the sander elevated and the shaft horizontal, no issue. But if I lower the sander the drawbar impinges he bottom of the PTO shaft. Not a problem if sander remains raised but with hydraulic drift when it's parked or when I have forgotten and try to lower the sander, trouble. So a shorter drawbar would allow me to keep subframe in place in the front and not hit the PTO shaft in the rear. I could also pull the PTO shaft each time but we don't get along well and it's always a battle for me to attach/detach without alot of effort, huffing/puffing, and cussing <grin>. I could fabricate one. This could be the excuse I need to convince the boss (wife) that we need a plasma cutter.

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

Thanks Grumpy. I'm not at the hill right now so I can't send pics so I'll try my best to describe issue. The draw bar has to be slid forward to lock the rear of the snowblower subframe in place. It only goes so far into the subframe before it hits the transmission. The other side of the drawbar extends out under the PTO shaft for the 3 point sander. If I keep the sander elevated and the shaft horizontal, no issue. But if I lower the sander the drawbar impinges he bottom of the PTO shaft. Not a problem if sander remains raised but with hydraulic drift when it's parked or when I have forgotten and try to lower the sander, trouble. So a shorter drawbar would allow me to keep subframe in place in the front and not hit the PTO shaft in the rear. I could also pull the PTO shaft each time but we don't get along well and it's always a battle for me to attach/detach without alot of effort, huffing/puffing, and cussing <grin>. I could fabricate one. This could be the excuse I need to convince the boss (wife) that we need a plasma cutter.

I think we are thinking about it all wrong…it’s clearly time for an additional machine..

Joking aside I guess I am not understanding unless something is actually fastening to the draw bar…does it not just slide out when you pull the pin?

 

[McMXi]

This could be the excuse I need to convince the boss (wife) that we need a plasma cutter.

I feel your pain, but a plasma cutter that can cut 1-1/4" plate isn't really hobby grade. I would use a metal blade chop saw (cheapest), or better yet a horizontal band saw. I cut down both draw bars for my tractors and the DeWalt chop saw worked well.

Last summer I upgraded the Schafer disc harrow to a Lunette ring and bought a pintle hitch to attach to the draw bar. The Lunette ring seemed like the best solution for the disc since I wanted as much articulation as possible without pulling the tractor around. I made a plate that I welded to the end of the draw bar with the idea being that I'll weld the stub that I cut off to another plate that will bolt to the drawbar.

I started to do the same with the M6060 drawbar which is wider but still 1-1/4" thick but didn't complete the work before buying the Land Pride RC3712 folding cutter, but luckily the dealership gave me a new drawbar that they had laying around.

I have the option to buy another MX drawbar but will most likely complete the plate idea so that I can use the drawbar with a ball or shackle, and then finish the M6060 drawbar by adding a plate and gussets so that the pintle hitch can be used on either tractor when I'm using the disc harrow.

 

[Gaspasser]

I think we are thinking about it all wrong…it’s clearly time for an additional machine..

Joking aside I guess I am not understanding unless something is actually fastening to the draw bar…does it not just slide out when you pull the pin?

I can pull drawbar out but that would disengage the snowblower subframe. But I like your thinking. I should have kept my little BX23 for the sander and for having a FEL available when the front snowblower is on the L6060. And McMXi, I'm really glad my wife didn't see your post. The plasma cutter would be the answer to all my problems <wink>. You are of course correct. Nice welding work there. I have a small Lincoln Mig/Tig unit with shield gas that needs to be used more frequently. Thinking the tractor will provide ample opportunity for that.

 

[McMXi]

I think we are thinking about it all wrong…it’s clearly time for an additional machine..

Joking aside I guess I am not understanding unless something is actually fastening to the draw bar…does it not just slide out when you pull the pin?

It seems to me that the drawbar needs to be left in place to support the subframe for the snow blower, but it can't move forward enough to give sufficient clearance for the pto shaft on the sander. If he removes the drawbar the subframe isn't supported.

Yep, cut that drawbar down to provide clearance. Worst case is that you buy another drawbar for non-winter use. Messicks has them for $227.62.

 

[Gaspasser]

It seems to me that the drawbar needs to be left in place to support the subframe for the snow blower, but it can't move forward enough to give sufficient clearance for the pto shaft on the sander. If he removes the drawbar the subframe isn't supported.

Yep, cut that drawbar down to provide clearance. Worst case is that you buy another drawbar for non-winter use.

Exactly the issue. Guess I'll call dealer Monday and see how many thousands this will cost, lol. I'll bet there's a short drawbar for sale some where. I'll search the interwebs tonight.

 

[McMXi]

And McMXi, I'm really glad my wife didn't see your post. The plasma cutter would be the answer to all my problems <wink>. You are of course correct. Nice welding work there. I have a small Lincoln Mig/Tig unit with shield gas that needs to be used more frequently. Thinking the tractor will provide ample opportunity for that.

I'm in full support re buying useful tools and plasma is definitely a useful tool. I've had a Hypertherm 380 model for decades that's still going strong. It'll cut 1/2" plate but struggles, but it's called a 380 for a reason. But honestly, if you want to cut the drawbar down, chop saw or bandsaw is the way to go and another drawbar that's unmolested will solve the problem.

Talking of welds, here's the pintle hitch draw bar for the MX. I like 7018 for most "critical" stuff. The draw bar can be flipped over to give difference hitch heights. A good rule of thumb for fillet weld size is the leg should be 75% of the thickness of the material being welded, for a full strength connection. I ran three passes on these welds for a leg of around 1/2" which is the plate thickness.

 

[Gaspasser]

Coincidentally, I live 8 miles from Hypertherm and know several folks who work there. I keep asking them if they have any units that have "fallen off the truck." Yep, again you are correct. Saw or grinder best for this task. Thinking spring can't come soon enough then problem will evaporate til next winter.

 

[Gaspasser]

I'm in full support re buying useful tools and plasma is definitely a useful tool. I've had a Hypertherm 380 model for decades that's still going strong. It'll cut 1/2" plate but struggles, but it's called a 380 for a reason. But honestly, if you want to cut the drawbar down, chop saw or bandsaw is the way to go and another drawbar that's unmolested will solve the problem.

Talking of welds, here's the pintle hitch draw bar for the MX. I like 7018 for most "critical" stuff. The draw bar can be flipped over to give difference hitch heights. A good rule of thumb for fillet weld size is the leg should be 75% of the thickness of the material being welded, for a full strength connection. I ran three passes on these welds for a leg of around 1/2" which is the plate thickness.

View attachment 149023

Beautiful beads. Stick or MIG?

 

[McMXi]

Coincidentally, I live 8 miles from Hypertherm and know several folks who work there. I keep asking them if they have any units that have "fallen off the truck." Yep, again you are correct. Saw or grinder best for this task. Thinking spring can't come soon enough then problem will evaporate til next winter.

Awesome. I wasn't sure if Hypertherm was still in business. They were "the one" when I bought my plasma, but that was in Hawaii around 2005, maybe earlier.

Maybe the your Hypertherm friends get an employee discount.

 

[McMXi]

Beautiful beads. Stick or MIG?

7018 stick using a Lincoln Square Wave TIG 200. Here's the "tongue" from the Schafer disc harrow. I cut off a very worn and cobbled together swivel hitch and welded on a plate that the Lunette ring bolts to. Again, 7018 stick.

 

[Gaspasser]

Wow. Clearly you are skilled at welding. Wife and I took introductory welding course at local high school tech center a few years ago. Was a real challenge not getting stick stuck, lol. Her favorite was MIG and mine was TIG. We were introduced to acetylene and plasma cutter as well. I retire in May and have accumulated scraps from local weld shop so will have more opportunity to practice. Really nice work sir.

 

[McMXi]

Wow. Clearly you are skilled at welding. Wife and I took introductory welding course at local high school tech center a few years ago. Was a real challenge not getting stick stuck, lol. Her favorite was MIG and mine was TIG. We were introduced to acetylene and plasma cutter as well. I retire in May and have accumulated scraps from local weld shop so will have more opportunity to practice. Really nice work sir.

Thanks. I had a career as a welder through the late 80's, and pretty much all of the 90's, but I've never stopped welding, even after a career change around 2005. Welding is a perishable skill, but if the fundamentals are deep rooted, it doesn't take long to get back.

When I made a custom receiver for the M-1078, I had to make a couple of welds using vertical up with a 7018 rod with the usual root pass, filler passes and cap. I was pleasantly surprised that after years of not welding 8 hours a day, 6 days a week, I was able to produce decent vertical up welds which you can see next to the D-rings.