Tie Rod Sage Part II

Turtlecreek

New member

Equipment
L3710
Nov 10, 2024
14
0
1
Tennessee
Hello All. A few months ago, I started thinking about replacing my tie rods and yall were very helpful. Thanks! Well, I am back with another issue on the same topic. Someone had welded one of the posts to the casting and I was able to get it off along with 2 more, without issue. However, I have one that is giving me fits. It has a pin in it and I couldnt get it out. I ended up trying to cut it out with a dremel, which worked. But I was unable to get the castle nut to move at all, especially since the joint allowed the post/threads to rotate. My last idea was to cut off the rest of the tie rod and maybe grab what was left and take the nut off. No dice. the nut won't budge. I can't access the top part to cut it off, so now I have a stub on the bottom that is larger than the hole and a stuck nut on the top.

I'd love any ideas you have on what to do next. My only ideas are:

1. soak it with solvent, maybe heat the nut and hope it comes off.
2. use a broke bolt removal kit and maybe that will allow enough force?

THanks for any thoughts you have on how to get this off.
 

GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
12,283
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113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
looking at the 1st picture as a reference.....
can you get a thin cutoff wheel between the bottom of the castled nut and the 'bar', to remove the nut and part of the threaded shaft ? Even cutting the nut real close to the 'bar' would help, then remove leftover of nut ??
it'd be nice to be there as pictures never show the whole story.....
 

Turtlecreek

New member

Equipment
L3710
Nov 10, 2024
14
0
1
Tennessee
looking at the 1st picture as a reference.....
can you get a thin cutoff wheel between the bottom of the castled nut and the 'bar', to remove the nut and part of the threaded shaft ? Even cutting the nut real close to the 'bar' would help, then remove leftover of nut ??
it'd be nice to be there as pictures never show the whole story.....
yeah, the picture doesn't do the tightness justice. I "might" be able to get it in and maybe cut it 1/2 way down the nut. i thought about that, but wasn't sure i could cut through the nut or that it wouldn't make things worse. I'll add that to my list of options. Thanks!
 

PoTreeBoy

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Lifetime Member

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L35 Ford 3930
Mar 24, 2020
2,910
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WestTn/NoMs
Or use a cold chisel to split the nut. Should be pretty easy at one of the low points of the castle.
 
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GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
12,283
5,304
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
'plan f'...... maybe use reciprocating saw with GOOD NEW metal cutting blade ? after that heat and twist what's left ? WATCH OUT FOR FIRE THOUGH !!!

'plan g'... cut,remove as much as possible, say there's just a 'plug' left filling the hole. center punch and small drill, bigger drill,bigger drill,coffee break, biggest drill.

got 4" of white here, most all season but I'll keep thinking.
 

MOOTS

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MX6000
Jun 27, 2019
1,994
2,344
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Canton, Georgia
Floor jack into the bottom to seat the joint. Impact nut off. Remove jack and wack with hammer to remove pin.
 
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KKBL

Active member

Equipment
L2501 HST QA 525 loader, 42" forks, brush hog, grader/box/back blades
Jan 5, 2022
109
115
43
Girard, PA
Do you have enough room to use a nut splitter on it?
 
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Turtlecreek

New member

Equipment
L3710
Nov 10, 2024
14
0
1
Tennessee
'plan f'...... maybe use reciprocating saw with GOOD NEW metal cutting blade ? after that heat and twist what's left ? WATCH OUT FOR FIRE THOUGH !!!

'plan g'... cut,remove as much as possible, say there's just a 'plug' left filling the hole. center punch and small drill, bigger drill,bigger drill,coffee break, biggest drill.

got 4" of white here, most all season but I'll keep thinking.
i like plan "g" as an option. i was thinking it might come to that, but hoped for an easier way.
 

Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
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Austin, Texas
Can you remove that part (with the stub stuck in it) from the tractor so it is easier to work on? I looked at the illustrated parts list but couldn’t determine what that part is. Can you tell us the part number or post a picture of the illustrated parts list(s) that show what the cast part is and how it fits?

If removable then you could replace it or have a machine shop remove the stub from the cast part.

Do you weld? If so then you might be able to weld a long bar to the stub to hold it from rotating. Then try to get the nut off. The bar could have a hole in it that would fit to the stub and then plug weld to the stub. You could use a large nut to weld to the stub instead of the bar. Then you could try to use an impact wrench on that nut and a six point wrench on the top nut to try and break it loose. (the impact would be better on the top but I don’t see any room above it for the impact wrench)

If it was me I would focus on splitting the nut with a nut splitter but you would have to get one with the wide tip instead of a point.

see this example (look at the upper LH picture that shows the tip)
IMG_0255.png