L3010HST no start

[Big Kahuna]

Battery was 8 years old so I replaced it with a new one, still no start. checked all wires, jumped starter and solenoid would not engage,, new starter, still no start? Fuses are good, key switch reads good, bypassed clutch safety switch, ordered new starter relay, what am I missing???

 

[ruger1980]

You need to be more detailed with your complaint. Does it crank at all? Slow Crank? Crank fine but no start?
You have replaced a lot pf parts but what diagnostics have you performed?

 

[Big Kahuna]

You need to be more detailed with your complaint. Does it crank at all? Slow Crank? Crank fine but no start?
You have replaced a lot pf parts but what diagnostics have you performed?

No crank at all I am terrible with electrical and replaced what I thought was needed, I am wrong, bit complex machine for me to understand

 

[ruger1980]

This series of machines is about as simple as they get. You really need to learn how to use a test light and or multimeter. This will tell you where you have voltage present and where it is not in the circuit when trying to actuate the starter.

 

[ruger1980]

First thing is have you checked your PTO to see if that is disengaged?

 

[Russell King]

What happens when you turn the key to the run position? What happens when you turn the key to the start position?

Do any lights on the dash come on or go out? Are there any noises at all?

Since you replaced the battery did you also replace the cables, or at least clean the cable ends and whatever they connect to at both ends?

Since you disconnected the battery, did you miss replacing any other wires that may be connected to the battery cable terminals?

 

[number two]

I believe the clutch pedal must be depressed for the engine to crank.
Could the clutch switch be bad or unplugged?
Good Luck!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Battery was 8 years old so I replaced it with a new one, still no start. checked all wires, jumped starter and solenoid would not engage,, new starter, still no start? Fuses are good, key switch reads good, bypassed clutch safety switch, ordered new starter relay, what am I missing???

How exactly did you jump the starter?

 

[Big Kahuna]

What happens when you turn the key to the run position? What happens when you turn the key to the start position?

Do any lights on the dash come on or go out? Are there any noises at all?

Since you replaced the battery did you also replace the cables, or at least clean the cable ends and whatever they connect to at both ends?

Since you disconnected the battery, did you miss replacing any other wires that may be connected to the battery cable terminals?

Turn key on, glow plugs cycle light goes out turn to start postion lights on dash dim like it's sending power to starter, have test light hooked up at black exciter wire on starter no power there? Clutch switch by passed for now with a jumper. Key switch cleaned and tested with light, checks out.

 

[Dchemphill1]

If the treadle pedal is not in neutral the key won't engage the starter. Rock the pedal back and forth a few times to loosen it up and then see if it will start. May need to lube the pedal.

 

[StephenR]

Check ALL of your safety switches, seat switch, brake switch etc... to make sure you have the proper connections, and they are good. It sounds like you have something that is not making a good connection to carry the power to the starter.

 

[airbiscuit]

I had a similar issue on my L3010. Turns out that where the battery cable attaches to the starter was nearly broken off. I put on a new battery cable, and problem solved. It tool a few tries to tighten it down to the starter (and not too tight),

My ground wire connection was okay, but you should check yours.

 

[ruger1980]

Here is the start schematic and the start checking section. This should get you somewhere.

The Safety switches are on the ground side of the start relay. You should only have the clutch switch and the PTO switch on this tractor. The start relay is under the dash so you will have to get to that to test it.

Do you have a voltmeter to check battery voltage?

 

[Big Kahuna]

Here is the start schematic and the start checking section. This should get you somewhere.

The Safety switches are on the ground side of the start relay. You should only have the clutch switch and the PTO switch on this tractor. The start relay is under the dash so you will have to get to that to test it.

Do you have a voltmeter to check battery voltage?

Volt meter came today, brake safety switch working, pto bypassed for now, battery cables replaced 4 years ago, I do have issues with the fuse holder, but don't think that's my problem, but could be wrong, going get back into soon. oh no seat switch on it.

 

[Big Kahuna]

Here is the start schematic and the start checking section. This should get you somewhere.

The Safety switches are on the ground side of the start relay. You should only have the clutch switch and the PTO switch on this tractor. The start relay is under the dash so you will have to get to that to test it.

Do you have a voltmeter to check battery voltage?

THANK YOU FOR THE DIAGRAMS.....WAY BETTER THAN WHAT I HAVE

 

[airbiscuit]

Connect a jumper cable from the positive terminal of the battery to the stud where it connects to the starter. Connect another jumper cable from the negative terminal of the battery to a good ground.

That should rule out a bad battery or bad starter.

 

[Big Kahuna]

Connect a jumper cable from the positive terminal of the battery to the stud where it connects to the starter. Connect another jumper cable from the negative terminal of the battery to a good ground.

That should rule out a bad battery or bad starter.

Did that, that's how I ended up with a new starter

 

[N3BP]

Jumping the starter with jumper cables doesn't kill a starter unless the starter was bad previously or the procedure was done incorrectly. It's the only method to determine if your issue lies on the high current starter side of the system, or low current trigger side of the starter solenoid.

This issue comes up several times a year on here with grand L00/L10 series and it's normally due to poor cable conditions or connection points between the battery and frame, or battery and starter. A volt meter or test light can give you a false impression of your cable or connection conditions. You can have enough connection left for the meter to tell you that you have 12V. When you go to fire the machine, the 100+ amp demand will drop that voltage down to nothing. That's why it's important to start diagnostics with a known good battery and set of jumper cables.

The first connection that seems to go bad on this generation of machine is the under the battery tray where the negative lead connects to the frame. It only takes one leaking battery to doom this connection point. Good luck with your diagnostics.

 

[airbiscuit]

***
This issue comes up several times a year on here with grand L00/L10 series and it's normally due to poor cable conditions or connection points between the battery and frame, or battery and starter. A volt meter or test light can give you a false impression of your cable or connection conditions. You can have enough connection left for the meter to tell you that you have 12V. When you go to fire the machine, the 100+ amp demand will drop that voltage down to nothing. That's why it's important to start diagnostics with a known good battery and set of jumper cables.

The first connection that seems to go bad on this generation of machine is the under the battery tray where the negative lead connects to the frame. It only takes one leaking battery to doom this connection point. Good luck with your diagnostics.

 

[lugbolt]

Jumping the starter with jumper cables doesn't kill a starter unless the starter was bad previously or the procedure was done incorrectly. It's the only method to determine if your issue lies on the high current starter side of the system, or low current trigger side of the starter solenoid.

This issue comes up several times a year on here with grand L00/L10 series and it's normally due to poor cable conditions or connection points between the battery and frame, or battery and starter. A volt meter or test light can give you a false impression of your cable or connection conditions. You can have enough connection left for the meter to tell you that you have 12V. When you go to fire the machine, the 100+ amp demand will drop that voltage down to nothing. That's why it's important to start diagnostics with a known good battery and set of jumper cables.

The first connection that seems to go bad on this generation of machine is the under the battery tray where the negative lead connects to the frame. It only takes one leaking battery to doom this connection point. Good luck with your diagnostics.

using the voltage drop test method can often isolate the problem in less time than it takes to type out the question-and that reply, much less finding another battery and jumper cables.