What's the right implement for the L2501 for driveway resurfacing/grading?

nerwin

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Equipment
L2501
Nov 13, 2024
9
31
13
Vermont
I'm new to the tractor community and just picked up a 2022 L2501 HST. I have a long driveway, although it's all flat, no hills. For years now I been maintaining it with side by side by pulling a homemade grader that I add several cinder blocks on top for weight. I even welded metal rods to help break up the driveway. Its quite a chore to say the least, takes me literally all day and nearly 10 gallons of gas lol. I end up using my snowplow for it to be able to smooth it out after. But no matter what, few weeks later the potholes come back. I just can't get down enough to get under the potholes.

The tractor should help big time with this. Now I have a rather hard pack driveway. I use what they call driveway mix or "stay-mat" which I believe is like a mixture of slate rocks and crush rocks to have powder, its blue-ish stone. After a while of driving on it, the stuff packs to a smooth finish, I mean you can nearly squeal your tires on it.

There a lot of attachments out there, most common ones I find are the box blades, grading scrapers and grading blades. From what I researched so far, the easiest one is the grading scrapers and the most versatile is the box blades.

I also want to be able to use the implement for grading topsoil as well. I see pros and cons of each one and I don't know what would be best.

I'm going to go out on a limb and say a box blade will be best solution as I believe its easier to be able to crown the driveway by adjusting the side links over the grading scraper. The grader blade seems to be more affordable option but also has no way of breaking up the driveway either since there's no down pressure on the 3 point.

I was looking at the Land Pride BB1260 but I heard folks bending it with the L2501 so would the BB1560 be better for me?

I'm not set on getting a Land Pride either, I seen ones from County Line, Titan, Howes, etc. Like what would be the best bang for the buck?

Would 66" be better for the L2501?

Any help would be appreciated!! Thank you!
 

Old Machinist

Member

Equipment
Kubota LX3310 cab, JD 4310, NH 575E cab backhoe, JD F725, Swisher 60", etc.
May 27, 2024
95
100
18
NE FL
For loose gravel and soil a landscape rake works good. A box blade with rippers is also a good choice.

What ever you pick you want it to cover the tracks of the tractor. If you intend to angle the attachment you want the angled width to be outside the width of your tires. Angling either suggestion is helpful for eliminating washboard ruts.
 
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Moose7060

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Equipment
M7060, L3902 HST, Farm King PT740, HLA 2500 Snowpusher, LandPride RCR1872
Oct 14, 2023
495
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93
bc
Believe it or not, a simple drag will make a gravel drive smooth as glass. When I still had the ranch, my driveway was slightly over half a mile. I found an old set of heavy skidder chains (key word is "heavy") and attached them to an 8 foot wide chunk of scrap metal. Dragged that up and down the driveway a few times and smoothed it right out. Seemed to pick up loose stuff and fill in the potholes.

Of course a box blade works as well, just didn't know about them back then! Good luck.
 

GreensvilleJay

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Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
11,347
4,875
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
For decades farmer across the road pulled a c-channel and tire chains up and down his 800' driveway, every Sunday between church and brunch. It was a thing of beauty ! I made a mini version ,towed behind my 9HP garden tractor and ,yes, my driveway and parking lot(1/4 ac) was a thing of beauty.
So farmer dies, house gets sold, new guy dos NOTHING... driveway became a nightmare in a few short months.
It's not so much what tool you have, it's how often you USE it !
 

jimh406

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Lifetime Member

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Kubota L2501 with R4 tires
Jan 29, 2021
2,338
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113
Western MT
I think a land plane/grader scraper is the best choice. For a long driveway, it's very easy to use. The stone/gravel automatically and will move it from right to left. It's what I use to maintain our community road and my long driveway.
 

mcmxi

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25DLB
Feb 9, 2021
5,211
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NW Montana
There a lot of attachments out there, most common ones I find are the box blades, grading scrapers and grading blades. From what I researched so far, the easiest one is the grading scrapers and the most versatile is the box blades.
I used to have two rear blades and might get another this week if things work out, but I take care of my gravel driveway with an EA land leveler which some call a land plane (?) or grading scraper (Land Pride). I've found it to be the best implement for gravel and a lot better than my box blade which I use exclusively for dirt. The scarifiers can be very useful if you're trying to break up the surface.

There's a 7ft EA land leveler for sale near me for $2k.

m6060_ea_land_leveler.jpg


ea_land_leveler.jpg
 

MOOTS

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MX6000
Jun 27, 2019
1,915
2,188
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Canton, Georgia
This isn’t the same type of rock you have, but a land plane makes quick work of our parking lots. And if I’m not there to run it, it’s pretty much dummy proof. Drop it and go.
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NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
2,782
4,204
113
Central Piedmont, NC
I have a boxblade and back blade, but I agree with the land plane crowd if you’re just leveling things that are already in the right general shape such as an existing road, finish grading topsoil that you’ve spread reasonably evenly with the loader, etc.

If you’re planning to create/clean out ditches, plow snow, or things other than leveling gravel/dirt, a box blade and/or heavy back blade may be worth considering.

One thing you mention which leads me to recommend against a landscape rake, drag of some sort, or light weight back blade is your road has potholes which keep reappearing after you drag it with your pre-tractor rig. You need something with rippers to disrupt the edges of the potholes. As you pointed out, the 3 point has no down pressure so getting a backblade to cut into an old hard packed gravel road is far from guaranteed, particularly the lighter weight ones.

A drag will fill them in, but until you cut into them, they’ll come back quickly. Once the potholes are cut out and road re-graded into good condition, regular use of a drag without rippers can keep it in good shape, but a drag alone won’t fix a potholed road in need of more aggressive rehab. A land plane or boxblade fits that need. Drop the rippers to fix the potholes and get the road in good shape. Raise them to drag it a few times a year to keep it in good shape.

Edit: Since others are posting pics of their roads and stuff they use on them, I’ll join the party…

Not sure I’d have the back blade if it hadn’t been in the shed longer than I’ve been alive. It has its uses, but the boxblade does 95% of what I need. The backblade just bounces over old hard packed gravel.
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KKBL

Member

Equipment
L2501 HST QA 525 loader, 42" forks, brush hog, grader/box/back blades
Jan 5, 2022
92
96
18
Girard, PA
A land plane with scarifiers works great for long runs. It should have adjustable skids on sides that allows for a little crowning effect. A box blade with scarifiers is good for digging up deep pot holes and can be used for the longer runs if you don't have a land plane, but will not be as easy to get an even smooth finish. We have both to use on our 1/2 mile drive and start with the box blade for pot hole areas then switch to land plane to smooth everything out nicely.
Last year we started using reclaimed asphalt millings on some of the re-occurring bad areas and they have packed down to be almost like paving - have not needed repaired so far, almost no dust, and should hold up for years from what I see now. Will probably purchase more next year to upgrade more of the drive. Around here the millings are less expensive than washed gravel.