Kubota L35 Problem

[Fluke216]

Thanks for that. Doesnt sound unusual .

The engine should turn any direction. If not, that would be unusual.
If you're going to start removing bonnet and associated radiator, alternator, etc you'll have an easier time of it (more room) trying to turn the crankshaft.

Hoist the bucket and chain it up (or remove it) if you can. it helps working on engine getting the loader booms out of the way

Check front pump bearings, steering yoke bushings and steering hoses and other hard to get items to while in there. Water pump is cheap and easy to replace FYI while in there.

I hope you wont mind keeping us informed of what you find.

Ok thanks for that info I will keep those things in mind. I will update and probably ask some more questions thanks.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

yea my brother in law is saying need to pull the motor and see what's going on. Any good videos or guides on pulling the motor. I guess the maintenance manual would have some info. thanks

I don't know of any videos of doing an engine removal on that model specifically.
When you get to the finer details of a tear down or rebuild I can most certainly help out.

 

[Fluke216]

I’m the workshop manual it mentions disassembling the main frame. It’s referring to just the brace and loader main frame? I was looking for some YouTube videos on this procedure but couldn’t find any. Looks like a lot of work - I guess the most daunting part to me is splitting the tractor to get the motor out. Any tips or tricks if anyone has done this let me know thanks guys

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I’m the workshop manual it mentions disassembling the main frame. It’s referring to just the brace and loader main frame? I was looking for some YouTube videos on this procedure but couldn’t find any. Looks like a lot of work - I guess the most daunting part to me is splitting the tractor to get the motor out. Any tips or tricks if anyone has done this let me know thanks guys

I used the search string 'L35 clutch site:www.orangetractortalks.com' in Google and found several threads on this site. Whether it's clutch or engine, the tractor has to be split. You can browse other threads, but the one below probably covers it. @lugbolt participated and he can probably answer your questions. Sounds like the FOP, loader and backhoe have to come off.

Kubota L-35

I bought a new L-35 in 2002, at 276 hours, the clutch went out. It has a shuttle shift. Took it to a Kubota dealer for repairs, was one ( 1 ) month past warranty. Bill was $ 3500.00, but Kubota did provide clutch & pressure plate. I am the only person that runs this piece of equipment. ..was not...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[Fluke216]

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/l35-kubota-shuttle-shaft-removal.73867/ I am finally getting around to taking this thing apart. I posted a new thread with a question im having trouble with removing the shuttle shaft maybe I should of posted it here wasn't sure. Let me know if anyone has any insight thank you.

 

[Fluke216]

I don't know of any videos of doing an engine removal on that model specifically.
When you get to the finer details of a tear down or rebuild I can most certainly help out.

So finally got around to pulling the engine. Just looking for some direction on the next step. I was following the checking disassembling and servicing in the work shop manual. Should I continue with that. I just finished the 1-s14 page. I’ll include photos of that and the next page. Thanks

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Looking good so far, keep following the manual.
I would be pulling the clutch off next.

 

[Fluke216]

Ok thanks. Here’s pictures let me know what you think, should I replace since I’m in here anyway if it looks ok?

Looking good so far, keep following the manual.
I would be pulling the clutch off next.

Ok pulled the clutch of here’s pictures let me know what you think. I assume I should replace it since I’m I here anyway? Should I get a clutch center tool when I reinstall? Also it’s says about applying three bond 1901 is there something recommended for that? Also looks like there’s a bunch of grime around both sides where I pulled the engine off should I remove that the best I can? I’m going to continue with the dissemble let me know if I should be doing something different also if some other things should be replaced while this is apart. Thank you Wolfman and anyone else for the help.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The WSM can tell you how to determine if it needs parts changed.
But me personally if I'm in there I almost always plan for a clutch disk, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and pilot bearing/ bushing.

You could get a alinement tool, but a simple dowel will get you lined up too.
It's not hard to center the disk.

Yes clean all of that up, a little rust remover wouldn't be a bad thing, and a light coat of paint afterwards.
On reassembly you want to seal the mating surfaces of the cases with a light coat of RTV to seal moisture out of the clutch area.

 

[L35]

See if the engines rear main seal is leaking as well, considering it’s around 25 years old if it isnt now it may be soon. I’d look into doing one of those “while your in there” kind of thing.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

See if the engines rear main seal is leaking as well, considering it’s around 25 years old if it isnt now it may be soon. I’d look into doing one of those “while your in there” kind of thing.

Look at all the dry rust in there, I don't think a drop of oil has ever seen that space.

He is going to end up messing with seals and such because he has an engine issue not a trans or clutch issue.

 

[L35]

Look at all the dry rust in there, I don't think a drop of oil has ever seen that space.

He is going to end up messing with seals and such because he has an engine issue not a trans or clutch issue.

I was looking at his installed pressure plate pic, it’s got a little engine oil visible but not able to tell if it’s from the RMS or no.

 

[Fluke216]

The WSM can tell you how to determine if it needs parts changed.
But me personally if I'm in there I almost always plan for a clutch disk, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and pilot bearing/ bushing.

You could get a alinement tool, but a simple dowel will get you lined up too.
It's not hard to center the disk.

Yes clean all of that up, a little rust remover wouldn't be a bad thing, and a light coat of paint afterwards.
On reassembly you want to seal the mating surfaces of the cases with a light coat of RTV to seal moisture out of the clutch area.

The WSM can tell you how to determine if it needs parts changed.
But me personally if I'm in there I almost always plan for a clutch disk, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and pilot bearing/ bushing.

You could get a alinement tool, but a simple dowel will get you lined up too.
It's not hard to center the disk.

Yes clean all of that up, a little rust remover wouldn't be a bad thing, and a light coat of paint afterwards.
On reassembly you want to seal the mating surfaces of the cases with a light coat of RTV to seal moisture out of the clutch area.

ok sounds good do you have a recommended place as to where you normally buy the parts. As should everything come from a dealer like messicks. I popped off the head cover last night and theres something broken under the rocker arm where the spring is. I’ll get pictures here soon and post.

 

[Fluke216]

Look at all the dry rust in there, I don't think a drop of oil has ever seen that space.

He is going to end up messing with seals and such because he has an engine issue not a trans or clutch issue.

I was looking at his installed pressure plate pic, it’s got a little engine oil visible but not able to tell if it’s from the RMS or no.

is this something I should leave and not mess with? Thanks

 

[PoTreeBoy]

is this something I should leave and not mess with? Thanks

From your earlier picture, I'd say you definitely need a throw out bearing.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

ok sounds good do you have a recommended place as to where you normally buy the parts. As should everything come from a dealer like messicks. I popped off the head cover last night and theres something broken under the rocker arm where the spring is. I’ll get pictures here soon and post.

Yes I want to see what's under the cover, it would be rather ironic if that was all of your noise.

Clutch setup for it:

Clutch Kit fits Kubota L2850 L2950 L3450 L3650 32430-14500 66438-14210 | eBay

Compatible with Kubota Tractor(s) L2850, L2950, L3450, L3650. Replaces Kubota OEM Number(s) 32430-14500, 66438-14210, 66419-13400. Clutch Splines: 10. Clutch Center: Solid. Clutch Type: Woven.

www.ebay.com

 

[Fluke216]

From your earlier picture, I'd say you definitely need a throw out bearing.

From your earlier picture, I'd say you definitely need a throw out bearing.

Ok thanks

 

[Fluke216]

Yes I want to see what's under the cover, it would be rather ironic if that was all of your noise.

Clutch setup for it:

Clutch Kit fits Kubota L2850 L2950 L3450 L3650 32430-14500 66438-14210 | eBay

Compatible with Kubota Tractor(s) L2850, L2950, L3450, L3650. Replaces Kubota OEM Number(s) 32430-14500, 66438-14210, 66419-13400. Clutch Splines: 10. Clutch Center: Solid. Clutch Type: Woven.

www.ebay.com

It doesn’t show the L35 on that clutch kit just wanted to double check and make sure that’s the correct one. Thanks. Also is it ironic because it could have been fixed with out splitting the tractor? - genuine question as my knowledge is limited. I will post a picture when I get home. Thanks again

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes that's the right clutch package, they just don't list the L35.

Depending on what you find, you might still need to get into the bottom end to get it fixed.

 

[Fluke216]

Yes I want to see what's under the cover, it would be rather ironic if that was all of your noise.

Clutch setup for it:

Yes I want to see what's under the cover, it would be rather ironic if that was all

Yes that's the right clutch package, they just don't list the L35.

Depending on what you find, you might still need to get into the bottom end to get it fixed.

ok thank you. Here’s some photos looks like something broke on top of an inlet valve? Also on the other end under the oil cap area looks like got real hot or something like burnt oil in that area or something you can see the spring is kinda blueish colored.