L3901H won't start

[TML4Life]

Hi all, new here but have been going through all the posts. I'm stuck as to why my tractor isn't starting. I have a new battery and it seems like it wants to but won't grab.

I'm uploading videos to YouTube and will share the links shortly.

 

[TML4Life]

Video of it trying to start

 

[RCW]

Hi all, new here but have been going through all the posts. I'm stuck as to why my tractor isn't starting. I have a new battery and it seems like it wants to but won't grab.

Need a lot more information.

Is this a L3901HST - - there's no L3901H?

It cranks, but does not fire?

Any smoke from the exhaust? Color of smoke?

What is the service history?

PS - - Just saw your video.

Check the cable connections of the battery to the tractor. Both ends of the both the positive and negative side.

Cables themselves could be corroded internally but start with the connections.

Guessing you replaced battery due to the no start problem, it may actually be the cables. Good place to start.

If the battery is brand new, it may not be fully charged.

 

[TML4Life]

Need a lot more information.

Is this a L3901HST - - there's no L3901H?

It cranks, but does not fire?

Any smoke from the exhaust? Color of smoke?

What is the service history?

PS - - Just saw your video.

Check the cable connections of the battery to the tractor. Both ends of the both the positive and negative side.

Guessing you replaced battery due to the no start problem, it may actually be the cables. Good place to start.

If the battery is brand new, it may not be fully charged.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Replace all primary (big) battery cables, clean all connections

 

[TML4Life]

Right it's an L3901HST.
No smoke at all.
It's been serviced regularly but due for the 400hr service soon.

Yeah I started with the battery. Working perfectly. Parked it. Tried to start two days later dead, just clicking sound.

Tried charging the battery but it was old so in bought a new just in case.

When I'm looking at the wires, what am I checking for? Damage?

 

[TML4Life]

Replace all primary (big) battery cables, clean all connections

Would you get them from the dealer or just order online?

Do the wires just go? I live in SC and there is tons of dust.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

dealer gets you the properly size cables....
they 'go' once water hits the ends and the cable begins to corrode as water 'wicks' it's way up the strands of copper. one 'telltale' is ANY greenish colour at the crimped ends. Another is the 'rrr-rrr-click' even with a brand new battery and/or jumping from a running truck. The cables can't pass the high CURRENT needed to spin the starter even though a meter says '12 volts'.

You could try removing the cables, cleaning them real good, reinstall and see what happens.
Another option, if possible, is to use jumper cables. red one from +12 battery post to starter +12 post, blk from battery -ve to frame(ground).

 

[TML4Life]

dealer gets you the properly size cables....
they 'go' once water hits the ends and the cable begins to corrode as water 'wicks' it's way up the strands of copper. one 'telltale' is ANY greenish colour at the crimped ends. Another is the 'rrr-rrr-click' even with a brand new battery and/or jumping from a running truck. The cables can't pass the high CURRENT needed to spin the starter even though a meter says '12 volts'.

You could try removing the cables, cleaning them real good, reinstall and see what happens.
Another option, if possible, is to use jumper cables. red one from +12 battery post to starter +12 post, blk from battery -ve to frame(ground).

Amazing. Thanks for the advice.

 

[number two]

I think battery cable replacement is suggested too often.
Proper testing rather than throwing parts at it a better repair path.
OP's could own and learn to use diagnostic tools(DVOM for instance)for voltage-drop tests,etc.
Better money spent!
Good Luck to OP!

 

[TML4Life]

I think battery cable replacement is suggested too often.
Proper testing rather than throwing parts at it a better repair path.
OP's could own and learn to use diagnostic tools(DVOM for instance)for voltage-drop tests,etc.
Better money spent!
Good Luck to OP!

I appreciate the suggestion. I'll certainly give that a try and post the results.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

@#2
The reason I suggest replacing the battery cables is based on 5+ decades of having to deal with 'no start' issues and 'degraded communications'.

Seems a lot of guys need to replace the battery, 5-10-15 years old, never ever consider the cables.
That means the engine has been started 100s if not 1000s of times. Each start puts a lot of stress on those cables, passing 100s of amps through them, ANY resistance('bad' connection ) creates heat and strands flex a bit. Add to that water( not pure either) and it'll wick up the strands. Over time copper corrodes.That green patina on sculptures and expensive gutters may be pretty BUT is nasty for wires !! Typical battery connections have lead, steel, brass, nickel and of course copper. Any water or moisture creates a 'battery' due to them being dissimilar so corrosion starts, slow at first but it is happening.

As for testing cables, no regular DMM, DVM,' meter' can actually test battery cables. Most are good for maybe .1 of an ohm IF the user remembers to account for the 'lead resistance'. When you need to pass 100s of amp, .01 ohm 'loss' is important. Push 100 A through .01 ohms and you lose 100 watts of power. Ever touch a lit 100 watt lightbulb ? That heat has to go somewhere...

We've seen posts here where battery was replaced, starter was replaced, relays and FINALLY new cables were installed and rr-rrr-vroom ! We've also seen pictures of those 'clamp on ' battery posts with obvious external corrosion on 'no start' posts.

Do new cables always solve the problem, no ,but I'm sure most here would rather replace $40 worth of cables than fork out $400 for a new starter that wasn't really needed.