Kubota M6800 Hydraulic Issues

amschind

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Kubota M6800
Sep 30, 2024
21
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3
Texas
I just got a new to me 1999 M6800 4x4 with just under 400 hours. I had a mechanic local to the tractor pick it up, and he rebuilt the steering and brakes for me before I grabbed it. I have found that the hydraulics are extremely weak and intermittent: power steering kicks in every so often, but rarely, the 3 point arms will raise but only slowly, and the PTO runs intermittently. My neighbor, who is keeping the tractor for me, noted that when he tried to use a wood splitter on it found that it would not power the splitter either. In short, EVERYTHING running on hydraulics exhibited exactly the same behavior consistent with weak and intermittent hydraulic fluid flow. I already had a new hydraulic pump with plans to replace it, so I started by replacing that with no improvement. I called the mechanic, and he indicated that he had replaced all of the fluids and filters EXCEPT for the hydraulic/transmission and those filters, which he had merely topped off. Of note, the fluid on the hydraulic dipstick is so clear that it's hard to even see a level, but I have no idea what lurks at the bottom near the drain plug.

In the process of replacing the hydraulic pump, the teeth on the drive all looked pristine (as did the entire pump), and the feed line from the transmission looks perfect. At the time, I was under the impression that the hydraulic fluid and filters were new (they look brand new), and only learned that they were used after I called the mechanic again. Thus I have some hope that draining and replacing the fluid and filters could remedy the situation.

With that back story, I have three distinct questions:
1) Super UDT2 is not cheap (I learned the hard way last week that Kubota Dealers, like many dealers, charge a premium for their "expertise".....one dealer tried to sell me an entire 3 point arm to replace a missing pin). I am fairly certain that I have a mechanical transmission as the tractor shifts great and the clutch works great while nothing affiliated with hydraulics does. I have seen it suggested on this forum that clean diesel is a good washing agent EXCEPT for hydraulic shuttle transmissions; I would much rather buy cheapo hydraulic fluid as a flush rather than risk harming stuff buried inside the tractor, but I won't really know until I see what comes out of the drain plug. A middle ground might be to buy 11 gallons of hydraulic fluid from Tractor Supply/Scamazon filters and then drain that and replace it with SUDT2 and Kubuta filters.

2) The Kubota hydraulic pump looks awesome and clearly was not the issue save for likely being exposed to fluid starvation. It appears to be a pretty simple device, and I see no reason why I wouldn't rebuild it if kits are available. If anyone has an easy way to track down kits as opposed to complete pumps, I'm interested.

3) I have 1 aux hydraulic block right now, and I want another block so that I can keep a loader hooked up while using a device that needs hydraulics. I'm looking at the parts diagram on Coleman's and trying to cross reference that with eBay because I'd prefer to spend $200 instead of $1100 for the same part, but I also want to avoid buying a valve that I don't need/valve for a slightly different model. I BELIEVE that it's this diagram and that I want 3A111-82540 (see below). I am leery of going back to a Kubota dealer for help as my first experience (see above) was pretty negative.
Coleman's Diagram

Anyway, I'll keep everyone posted so that you can learn from my mistakes. I have little knowledge and a bunch of questions now, so I cannot add much back yet, but hopefully the day comes when I can contribute.
 

007kubotaguy

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B7100DT L245DT JD 2355
Dec 23, 2012
635
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One thing I would look closely at after changing both hydraulic filters is a suction line itself. Be sure there's no obstructions where it comes out of the transmission. They have been known to have the brake lining flake off and plug up the line. Also check any connections on the suction line be sure they are not sucking air. I have a service manual for this machine be happy to loan it to you. Good luck with your troubleshooting. Good machines.
 
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amschind

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Kubota M6800
Sep 30, 2024
21
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3
Texas
One thing I would look closely at after changing both hydraulic filters is a suction line itself. Be sure there's no obstructions where it comes out of the transmission. They have been known to have the brake lining flake off and plug up the line. Also check any connections on the suction line be sure they are not sucking air. I have a service manual for this machine be happy to loan it to you. Good luck with your troubleshooting. Good machines.
The 2 piece suction line seems relatively easy to pull once the fluid is drained, so no reason not to yank and clean it if I'll already have the machine drained.
 

Russell King

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If it was me instead of you, I would take the offer of a work shop manual and get it. They have great trouble shooting guides and many tests that will narrow down the problem.

Your method of replacing parts will eventually find the culprit but that is usually an expensive method since you will replace perfectly good parts.

There might be more than one hydraulic pump on that tractor, I DO NOT KNOW but have read about several models with multiple pumps involved.

Buying a test gauge and finding out if and where you have pressure would be the first thing I would be doing in your situation.
 
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amschind

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Kubota M6800
Sep 30, 2024
21
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Texas
If it was me instead of you, I would take the offer of a work shop manual and get it. They have great trouble shooting guides and many tests that will narrow down the problem.

Your method of replacing parts will eventually find the culprit but that is usually an expensive method sine you will replace perfectly good parts.

There might be more than one hydraulic pump on that tractor, I DO NOT KNOW but have read about several models with multiple pumps involved.

Buying a test gauge and finding out if and where you have pressure would be the first thing I would be doing in your situation.
1) I agree on the manual, but my plan is to grab my own. I don't like borrowing anything that I cannot be sure of quickly returning in mint condition or that I will frequently need.

2) There are two pumps in the same sense that a human has two hearts: the two pumps spin on a common shaft and are essentially one piece. They also share a feed line but have separate outputs. That's why I remain strongly suspicious that the issue was either the pump or the feed line:

3) I agree on randomly replacing parts. I bought the hydraulic pump before I was even aware of any issues as a maintenance item, and since I already had it and planned the replacement, it was easy and a sunk cost to get that information.
 

TheOldHokie

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Apr 6, 2021
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windyridgefarm.us
I just got a new to me 1999 M6800 4x4 with just under 400 hours. I had a mechanic local to the tractor pick it up, and he rebuilt the steering and brakes for me before I grabbed it. I have found that the hydraulics are extremely weak and intermittent: power steering kicks in every so often, but rarely, the 3 point arms will raise but only slowly, and the PTO runs intermittently. My neighbor, who is keeping the tractor for me, noted that when he tried to use a wood splitter on it found that it would not power the splitter either. In short, EVERYTHING running on hydraulics exhibited exactly the same behavior consistent with weak and intermittent hydraulic fluid flow. I already had a new hydraulic pump with plans to replace it, so I started by replacing that with no improvement. I called the mechanic, and he indicated that he had replaced all of the fluids and filters EXCEPT for the hydraulic/transmission and those filters, which he had merely topped off. Of note, the fluid on the hydraulic dipstick is so clear that it's hard to even see a level, but I have no idea what lurks at the bottom near the drain plug.

In the process of replacing the hydraulic pump, the teeth on the drive all looked pristine (as did the entire pump), and the feed line from the transmission looks perfect. At the time, I was under the impression that the hydraulic fluid and filters were new (they look brand new), and only learned that they were used after I called the mechanic again. Thus I have some hope that draining and replacing the fluid and filters could remedy the situation.

With that back story, I have three distinct questions:
1) Super UDT2 is not cheap (I learned the hard way last week that Kubota Dealers, like many dealers, charge a premium for their "expertise".....one dealer tried to sell me an entire 3 point arm to replace a missing pin). I am fairly certain that I have a mechanical transmission as the tractor shifts great and the clutch works great while nothing affiliated with hydraulics does. I have seen it suggested on this forum that clean diesel is a good washing agent EXCEPT for hydraulic shuttle transmissions; I would much rather buy cheapo hydraulic fluid as a flush rather than risk harming stuff buried inside the tractor, but I won't really know until I see what comes out of the drain plug. A middle ground might be to buy 11 gallons of hydraulic fluid from Tractor Supply/Scamazon filters and then drain that and replace it with SUDT2 and Kubuta filters.

2) The Kubota hydraulic pump looks awesome and clearly was not the issue save for likely being exposed to fluid starvation. It appears to be a pretty simple device, and I see no reason why I wouldn't rebuild it if kits are available. If anyone has an easy way to track down kits as opposed to complete pumps, I'm interested.

3) I have 1 aux hydraulic block right now, and I want another block so that I can keep a loader hooked up while using a device that needs hydraulics. I'm looking at the parts diagram on Coleman's and trying to cross reference that with eBay because I'd prefer to spend $200 instead of $1100 for the same part, but I also want to avoid buying a valve that I don't need/valve for a slightly different model. I BELIEVE that it's this diagram and that I want 3A111-82540 (see below). I am leery of going back to a Kubota dealer for help as my first experience (see above) was pretty negative.
Coleman's Diagram

Anyway, I'll keep everyone posted so that you can learn from my mistakes. I have little knowledge and a bunch of questions now, so I cannot add much back yet, but hopefully the day comes when I can contribute.
Before blindly taking things apart, throwing parts at it, and guessing do some basic diagnostics.

Disconnect the pump supply hose at the loader and stuck if in a clean bucket. Set engine speed to idle and BRIEFLY start the tractor. Do not let it run for more than a second or two.

If the pump is working it will dump a gallon or so into that bucket. If you dont get oil the problem is in the pump or supply side. If you get oil the next step is a pump pressure test.

You will learn faster from orderly testing than the shotgun in the dark approach.

Dan
 
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Russell King

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Jun 17, 2012
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1) I agree on the manual, but my plan is to grab my own. I don't like borrowing anything that I cannot be sure of quickly returning in mint condition or that I will frequently need.
I imagine that @007kubotaguy is offering a PDF of the manual but he might have meant loan. I doubt mailing a paper copy would be cheap.

But you can get it from Kubota Books dot com . Notice that it is with several other models.
IMG_0178.png
 
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amschind

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Kubota M6800
Sep 30, 2024
21
9
3
Texas
I imagine that @007kubotaguy is offering a PDF of the manual but he might have meant loan. I doubt mailing a paper copy would be cheap.

But you can get it from Kubota Books dot com . Notice that it is with several other models.
View attachment 138838
I downloaded the WSM from a different link on this site a while back, but it read more like a user's manual than a detailed guide to fix things. And if the poster above was offering a .pdf, then BY ALL MEANS. I apologize for being so dense. I actually had to resort to a paper copy to get a manual for my IH 82 combine......not a lot of pdfs on equipment from the 1960s.
 

Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
5,297
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Austin, Texas
I downloaded the WSM from a different link on this site a while back, but it read more like a user's manual than a detailed guide to fix things. And if the poster above was offering a .pdf, then BY ALL MEANS. I apologize for being so dense. I actually had to resort to a paper copy to get a manual for my IH 82 combine......not a lot of pdfs on equipment from the 1960s.
Sorry I didn’t notice it was the operator manual and not the WSM as the index stated

perhaps you can private message @007kubotaguy by tapping on his name in his post above
 

amschind

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Sep 30, 2024
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3
Texas
Update: I finally got to work on it and replaced the fluid and filters. There was some nasty water and the bottom of the transmission, but more importantly, junk left over from the brake job that my tractor guy did. After replacing the filters and fluid, hydraulics, power steering and 3 point all work great. It is night and day. I had planned to remove and clean out the feed line for the hydraulic pump while i was down there, but didn't bother after changing fluids and filter fixed it. Thanks everyone for the help.
 
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Ripp

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B6200HST
Mar 6, 2023
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0
6
Pennsylvania
Before blindly taking things apart, throwing parts at it, and guessing do some basic diagnostics.

Disconnect the pump supply hose at the loader and stuck if in a clean bucket. Set engine speed to idle and BRIEFLY start the tractor. Do not let it run for more than a second or two.

If the pump is working it will dump a gallon or so into that bucket. If you dont get oil the problem is in the pump or supply side. If you get oil the next step is a pump pressure test.

You will learn faster from orderly testing than the shotgun in the dark approach.

Dan
lol that happened to me by accident when i was doing my testing - had hydro shooting 10ft into the trees...