Adding a Rear Remote Valve Kit to a 2024 L4802 HST

[John E. Law]

I am purchasing a universal electric rear remote valve kit (3 spool) from Summit Hydraulics for my 2024 L4802. No one that I can find, has a kit for L4802 yet so I’m going to try to install this universal kit on my own with limited experience dealing with hydraulics.

My first thought is the easiest way to plumb the valve kit into the hydraulics is through the rear loop quick couplers normally used for the backhoe. My thought is when I’ll be using the rear valve kit for rear implements, the backhoe will be removed and those hydraulic lines will be connected to each other and unused. Why not attach hoses to the valve kit pressure line and return line, with corresponding quick couplers to attach to the rear loop quick couplers?

When I attach the backhoe I can disconnect the valve kit from the rear loop and then the rear loop is again attached to the backhoe. My brain thinks this is a simpler faster solution. Or am I wrong and don’t attempt it this way, just plumb it in another way?

 

[TheOldHokie]

I am purchasing a universal electric rear remote valve kit (3 spool) from Summit Hydraulics for my 2024 L4802. No one that I can find, has a kit for L4802 yet so I’m going to try to install this universal kit on my own with limited experience dealing with hydraulics.

My first thought is the easiest way to plumb the valve kit into the hydraulics is through the rear loop quick couplers normally used for the backhoe. My thought is when I’ll be using the rear valve kit for rear implements, the backhoe will be removed and those hydraulic lines will be connected to each other and unused. Why not attach hoses to the valve kit pressure line and return line, with corresponding quick couplers to attach to the rear loop quick couplers?

When I attach the backhoe I can disconnect the valve kit from the rear loop and then the rear loop is again attached to the backhoe. My brain thinks this is a simpler faster solution. Or am I wrong and don’t attempt it this way, just plumb it in another way?

No reason to make it one or the other.

Disconnect the backhoe supply hose from the quick coupler and reroute it to the P port on the remote valve. Then connect the T port on the remote valves to the coupler. The remote valves are in line and available whether the hoe is on or off. Simple and easy to do. It is exactly how the Kubota OEM remotes are plumbed.

Dan

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I am assuming that you are doing this to have a top & tilt set for the 3pt hitch.
Just have in mind that electric valves are not the optimum control valves for top & tilt cylinders.

Good luck with your project.

 

[John E. Law]

I am assuming that you are doing this to have a top & tilt set for the 3pt hitch.
Just have in mind that electric valves are not the optimum control valves for top & tilt cylinders.

Good luck with your project.

Ditch flail mower on the 3pt. I need two spools. One to swing it out to the right a one to articulate the mower up 90 degrees or down 60 degrees. I’d love know your recommendations if ou think I’m going in the wrong direction.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Ditch flail mower on the 3pt. I need two spools. One to swing it out to the right a one to articulate the mower up 90 degrees or down 60 degrees. I’d love know your recommendations if ou think I’m going in the wrong direction.

I can answer that question- manual valves instead of electric. Electric is all or none flow to the implement while manual valves let you meter the flow.

Plumbing is nearly identical and just as easy. You will need a third hose for tank return but other than that it's the same.

Dan

 

[John E. Law]

I can answer that question- manual valves instead of electric. Electric is all or none flow to the implement while manual valves let you meter the flow.

Plumbing is nearly identical and just as easy. You will need a third hose for tank return but other than that it's the same.

Dan

thank you for suggestion. For the most part the hydraulics move the flail mower into position and the blades are run by the PTO. Still think I can’t go with electric? I’m still learning.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You can not "really" feather electric actuated valves. If you feel that you don't need to be able to do that, then yes the electric valves should work fine for you.

 

[TheOldHokie]

thank you for suggestion. For the most part the hydraulics move the flail mower into position and the blades are run by the PTO. Still think I can’t go with electric? I’m very new to this

Either tyoe valve will work - it's a matter of speed control. With electric valves the mower will reposition at top speed and you may find it difficult to control the position. With manual valves you can control the speed and positioning is easier. Electric is also 3 to 4 times more expensive.

Here is a two spool manual valve on my L3901. Probably cost less than $300 total to install.

Dan

 

[Russell King]

You may want to consider how much mass is being moved around with the flail mower and how fast that is moving. Fast moving, heavy things have a LOT of energy that can cause high stresses in the implement and the connection points to the tractor.

@TheOldHokie - I understand that the electric part of the valve is some sort of electrical actuator that is full movement when turned on (or off). But is there any adjustment so it actuates the hydraulic section only 1/2 or 1/4 of the full movement? Then you could get the valve to be slow(er). Just wondering why that would not be a standard adjustment for the valve…

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You may want to consider how much mass is being moved around with the flail mower and how fast that is moving. Fast moving, heavy things have a LOT of energy that can cause high stresses in the implement and the connection points to the tractor.

@TheOldHokie - I understand that the electric part of the valve is some sort of electrical actuator that is full movement when turned on (or off). But is there any adjustment so it actuates the hydraulic section only 1/2 or 1/4 of the full movement? Then you could get the valve to be slow(er). Just wondering why that would not be a standard adjustment for the valve…

Not on the actual valves that I know about. Yes you can get either fixed rate flow restrictors or adjustable ones, but you still have to deal with one speed only, no feathering.

 

[Russell King]

Not on the actual valves that I know about. Yes you can get either fixed rate flow restrictors or adjustable ones, but you still have to deal with one speed only, no feathering.

Thanks for the info.

 

[TheOldHokie]

You may want to consider how much mass is being moved around with the flail mower and how fast that is moving. Fast moving, heavy things have a LOT of energy that can cause high stresses in the implement and the connection points to the tractor.

@TheOldHokie - I understand that the electric part of the valve is some sort of electrical actuator that is full movement when turned on (or off). But is there any adjustment so it actuates the hydraulic section only 1/2 or 1/4 of the full movement? Then you could get the valve to be slow(er). Just wondering why that would not be a standard adjustment for the valve…

No adjustment on those valves. People put restrictors in the ports on the cylinders or external flow control valves on the lines. Added expense and inconvenience.

In an industrial setting flow control is achieved by using pulse width modulation electronics to operate the solenoid but now we are talking serious expense. A $150 dollar valve turns into a $500 valve.

Dan

 

[Russell King]

No adjustment on those valves. People put restrictors in the ports on the cylinders or external flow control valves on the lines. Added expense and inconvenience.

In an industrial setting flow control is achieved by using pulse width modulation electronics to operate the solenoid but now we are talking serious expense. A $150 dollar valve turns into a $500 valve.

Dan

Thanks for your information.

 

[NCL4701]

Everyone on this thread has much more hydraulic system expertise than I do. This comment is from an operator perspective, not a system designer / mechanic perspective.

I’ve run electric and manual valves. Currently have an electric diverter for the third function on my L (on/off; no flow adjustment) and three manual rear remotes almost exclusively used for top/tilt.

My third function (so far) is used solely for grapple open/close. It is swell for that because, in practice, it’s open or closed. There’s rarely a need to set it in between. The mass of the grapple lid is small relative to the entire machine so if it closes or opens very quickly, its inertia doesn’t rock the machine, stressing the loader.

My top link and side link don’t have flow restrictors. Moving a 500 to 650lb implement (boxblade, winch, etc. which has significant inertia) at full flow: it doesn’t move to end of range of motion at moderate speed, coming to a peaceful stop. Nay, it moves very quickly to a sledge hammer stop quite similar to running a car into a kiddie pool sized pothole at about 45 mph. Side link is worse than toplink but they’re both bad if the manual valve is misused as an on/off switch. Feathering is easy with the manual valves, which is a good thing being it’s necessary.

I wouldn’t seriously consider electric for what you’re doing with a flail. If you do go electric you’ll almost certainly need a flow restrictor to slow it enough to allow for adjustment between full in/full out. I don’t believe there’s any way I could even hope to adequately adjust the three point on mine with electric without flow restrictors. IMO, for what you’re doing, electric with flow restrictor is a poor substitute for manual.

Of course: your money, your machine, and YMMV.

Just an opinion…