Hydraulic top link questions

[Gaspasser]

Just got L6060 back from dealer for 50 hour service and installation of top and tilt kit. I have Pat's quick hitch system on lower arms. This pushes my implements back making the manual top link (34 inches eye to eye ) relatively too short to easily reach the implement top hitch. This has been discussed on this forum in various ways with possible solutions being 1) buy a longer hydraulic top link or 2) fabricate an adapter on the tractor side to extend the top link cylinder attachment point.

Spoke with dealer prior to install and was told hydraulic cylinder would be longer. They were right, by an extra 1/2 inch. So still too short without tipping my implements forward to hookup. This is difficult with heavy implements. So, I'm looking for a commercially available top link extender on the tractor side. Have had no luck finding this; is anyone aware of a source for such a adapter?

Second question: is there an easy way to hydraulically adjust length of top link from in the cab without making 27 trips back and forth to the 3 pt to see if I lined up the top link eye with the implement? This was easy with the manual screw adjusting top link but the hydraulic has negated this ability. Folks must have some tricks to make this more efficient?

Taking delivery of box blade this weekend and need to have enough top link length to tip box back when needed.

As always, grateful for all responses.

 

[woodman55]

I almost always use my quick hitch, so there is very little to line up. IF I do connect to something with the quick hitch, I put the top link into float, then push/pull on the end of the cyl to adjust it. If your has the load check vales in it, then there is no way other than using the lever.

I just looked at your pictures. Make sure the top link is connected to the ports with the float function, and you should be fine.

 

[Gaspasser]

I almost always use my quick hitch, so there is very little to line up. IF I do connect to something with the quick hitch, I put the top link into float, then push/pull on the end of the cyl to adjust it. If your has the load check vales in it, then there is no way other than using the lever.

I just looked at your pictures. Make sure the top link is connected to the ports with the float function, and you should be fine.

Did not realize I could manipulate cylinder by hand. I'll give it a try. Thank you!

 

[biketopia]

Your real benefit will be seen with a standard quick hitch. Are you using a lot of older implements that aren't quick hitch compatible?

 

[Gaspasser]

Your real benefit will be seen with a standard quick hitch. Are you using a lot of older implements that aren't quick hitch compatible?

Thanks for response. New implements. Both Cat 1 and Cat 2. Forgive my ignorance, but wouldn't any quick hitch move the attachment point rearwards? Are there specific brands/models of quick hitches you would recommend that are cat 1 and 2 compatible? I am reading manual on the rear remote cylinders and it discusses a third float lever which I do not seem to have. Only have the 1 control each for the top and tilt cylinders. I was unable to pull or adjust the cylinder manually by hand as Wood suggested. I posted a Pic of a label which seems to indicate cylinder function. Thanks again for assistance guys.

 

[woodman55]

In the second picture it shows a cyl with a curvy line, that would be the float location. Most rear remotes have a separate lever for each remote. Yours seems to be using the loader joystick to control them. It would be all the way forward on the joystick, past a detent. Do you have a loader ?

 

[Gaspasser]

In the second picture it shows a cyl with a curvy line, that would be the float location. Most rear remotes have a separate lever for each remote. Yours seems to be using the loader joystick to control them. It would be all the way forward on the joystick, past a detent. Do you have a loader ?

Yes Woodman. I do have 2 levers for the rear remotes (not shown in my pics), 1 for each cylinder. The default position is centered and returns to center by spring action when hands are off. Forward and rearward movement of levers lengthens and shortens the top and tilt cylinders. I'll get additional pics posted tomorrow. I very much appreciate your help. Unfortunately, the manual is light on specifics. I will search for videos this weekend and will see if the dealer can help me out as well when they reopen next week. Thank you very much again. It is very frustrating to not understand what should be a simple process.

 

[Gaspasser]

In the second picture it shows a cyl with a curvy line, that would be the float location. Most rear remotes have a separate lever for each remote. Yours seems to be using the loader joystick to control them. It would be all the way forward on the joystick, past a detent. Do you have a loader ?

Oh yes, I do have a loader as well.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Yes Woodman. I do have 2 levers for the rear remotes (not shown in my pics), 1 for each cylinder. The default position is centered and returns to center by spring action when hands are off. Forward and rearward movement of levers lengthens and shortens the top and tilt cylinders. I'll get additional pics posted tomorrow. I very much appreciate your help. Unfortunately, the manual is light on specifics. I will search for videos this weekend and will see if the dealer can help me out as well when they reopen next week. Thank you very much again. It is very frustrating to not understand what should be a simple process.

Does not sound like you have a valve with float.

Dan