LandHonor Tree Puller & Hydraulic Fittings

PoTreeBoy

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As I posted on the 'What Did You . . .' thread, I road tripped Thursday to purchase a LandHonor tree puller for Katy. Having gotten burned on a couple of Brush Grubbers, I was a little hesitant but then decided to go for it.
Screenshot_20240811-190220-587.png

(this is not mine, but identical)
I got it to the farm Friday and thought I could at least rig the hydraulics up and see what it was capable of. But, instead, I got a hydraulic plumbing lesson.

I have SSQA on the loader and a 3rd function valve. I have temporarily run hoses so I can use the grapple. The grapple came with both flat face (3/8" body) and Pioneer Ag (1/2" body) couplers; I chose the Pioneer since I was under the impression that Kubota favored Pioneer on L's and smaller.

The tree puller came with 1/2" body flat face couplers. I thought I could adapt it to Pioneer, but when I started measuring things, I found out otherwise.

Everything I've dealt with on my tractor was NPT, ORB or JIC, which all have some Imperial link. But this tree puller is basically metric. The cylinder has BSPP ports, the hoses have 24° DIN2353 fittings, and the couplers have BSPP ends. None of my local suppliers can deal with it, so I resolved to direct order. In the end, I've decided to change over to 1/2" flat face. I've seen on OTT that people like them, they seem to be easier to operate, and they seem to be the skid steer standard.

The tree puller will stay as is. I've ordered couplers to convert the grapple and loader to flat face. I also ordered the hoses I needed to complete the permanent 3rd function installation. I've been making brackets to mount the couplers and hard lines.

One other thing on the tree puller - notice in the picture that the hoses come outside the cylinder. This looked vulnerable to me, so I flipped the cylinder over to put the hoses inside the triangle. I don't think there will be interference, but I'll double check when it's functional. I'd like to replace those hair pin clips and drill the pins for lubrication.

When everything's functioning, I'll try to remember to post an actual review.
 
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TheOldHokie

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As I posted on the 'What Did You . . .' thread, I road tripped Thursday to purchase a LandHonor tree puller for Katy. Having gotten burned on a couple of Brush Grubbers, I was a little hesitant but then decided to go for it.
View attachment 134759
(this is not mine, but identical)
I got it to the farm Friday and thought I could at least rig the hydraulics up and see what it was capable of. But, instead, I got a hydraulic plumbing lesson.

I have SSQA on the loader and a 3rd function valve. I have temporarily run hoses so I can use the grapple. The grapple came with both flat face (3/8" body) and Pioneer Ag (1/2" body) couplers; I chose the Pioneer since I was under the impression that Kubota favored Pioneer on L's and smaller.

The tree puller came with 1/2" body flat face couplers. I thought I could adapt it to Pioneer, but when I started measuring things, I found out otherwise.

Everything I've dealt with on my tractor was NPT, ORB or JIC, which all have some Imperial link. But this tree puller is basically metric. The cylinder has BSPP ports, the hoses have 24° DIN2353 fittings, and the couplers have BSPP ends. None of my local suppliers can deal with it, so I resolved to direct order. In the end, I've decided to change over to 1/2" flat face. I've seen on OTT that people like them, they seem to be easier to operate, and they seem to be the skid steer standard.

The tree puller will stay as is. I've ordered couplers to convert the grapple and loader to flat face. I also ordered the hoses I needed to complete the permanent 3rd function installation. I've been making brackets to mount the couplers and hard lines.

One other thing on the tree puller - notice in the picture that the hoses come outside the cylinder. This looked vulnerable to me, so I flipped the cylinder over to put the hoses inside the triangle. I don't think there will be interference, but I'll double check when it's functional. I'd like to replace those hair pin clips and drill the pins for lubrication.

When everything's functioning, I'll try to remember to post an actual review.
Not to nit pick but BSPP is not metric. So how does a DIN 2353 (male?) hose end mate to a BSPP female? And AFAIK DIN 2353 is a metric tube fitting not a hose end.

Dan
 
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TheOldHokie

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Yeah, but it ain't 'zackly 'Murican. The hoses have swivel ends (female) and there are male-male adapters.
That makes much more sense. My next question is what kind of swivels and adapters? JIC swivel and JIC X BSPP port adapters would be "Murican" hose.

Of course "Murican" is the odd man in the game. The vast majority of the world uses BSP. The Germans are a metric (DIN) exception.

Dsn
 

PoTreeBoy

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That makes much more sense. My next question is what kind of swivels and adapters? JIC swivel and JIC X BSPP port adapters would be "Murican" hose.

Of course "Murican" is the odd man in the game. The vast majority of the world uses BSP. The Germans are a metric (DIN) exception.

Dsn
Like the ones at the bottom, with o-rings. Apparently they use the same male fittings for metric tube compression connections. So the adapters are DIN2353 X BSP.
Screenshot_20240811-230149-065.png

This assumes my measurements were correct and everything fits when it arrives. 🙏 🤞
Screenshot_20240811-224358-013.png
 
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TheOldHokie

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Like the ones at the bottom, with o-rings. Apparently they use the same male fittings for metric tube compression connections. So the adapters are DIN2353 X BSP.
View attachment 134775
This assumes my measurements were correct and everything fits when it arrives. 🙏 🤞
View attachment 134770
I am having trouble visualizibg this.

Male BSPP with oring is a standard port adapter. But I dont understsnd how the DIN 2353 end attaches to a hose swivel. It would normally attach to a metal tube end with tube nut and compression sleeve as shown in your second attachment.

You sure that hose swivel and the hose end of the adapter are not ordinary BSP? Thats the BSP analog to a "Mericun" NPT female hose swivel and like NPT seals against a cone base. The exact cone angle escapes me at the moment but its not 24 degrees.


Dan
 
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Harley 2e

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Last time I had that problem I went the fleet farm bought two 12-in hoses and put the appropriate ends on each end of the hose and there you are when you need them you add the 12-in hoses in between the two existing hoses Bing Bang Boom thanks for listening
 

TheOldHokie

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Last time I had that problem I went the fleet farm bought two 12-in hoses and put the appropriate ends on each end of the hose and there you are when you need them you add the 12-in hoses in between the two existing hoses Bing Bang Boom thanks for listening
What are the "appropriate ends" in this case?

Dan
 

TheOldHokie

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Like the ones at the bottom, with o-0rings. Apparently they use the same 9male fittings for metric tube compression connections. So the adapters are DIN2353 X BSP.
View attachment 134775
This assumes my measurements were correct and everything fits when it arrives. 🙏 🤞
View attachment 134770
Well this has been educational. I had not run across these before. Seems to match your description and the picture perfectly.

[https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/FDINHX90-06-20.html

Thanks - looks like I learned something new today.

Dsn
 
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PoTreeBoy

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TheOldHokie

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Yeah, except mine are the light series. I'd hate to have to buy many hose assemblies.
View attachment 134782
Here's the real thing
View attachment 134783
DHH is pricey on anything metric or BSP. I am sure my loval Parker store wants double that.

This Is more in line with a JIC female swivel end.


This is actually a clever design with what amounts to a plain stand tube hose end with factory installed/preset compression sleeve and nut. You could do the same thing with SAE tube and JIC fittings. I have mentally bookmarked that idea.

1000003346.jpg


Dan
 

PoTreeBoy

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Having finished the third function installation and conversion to 1/2" flat face couplers, I was ready to give the Land Honor tree puller a workout.

Before the glowing part, I'm posting this post-use condition photo.
IMG_20240922_182635145.jpg

I'm nearly positive the jaws fully closed when I started, but this is as close as they get now. The cylinder has a full 8" travel and I didn't see any obvious cracked or bent metal. But I was ready to go in, so I didn't look too closely. The puller will obviously be of no use for small saplings until this is resolved.

I'm thinking of home-building and need to clear a lot which contains 10 year planted pines and other brush. When I cleared for my shop, I pulled each stem by wrapping a chain around it and hooking onto the loader. That was quite a workout and led to buying the tree puller. Here's a picture of a max. size tree with the puller. It's about 5" DBH and 32' tall. I had to roll the bucket down to get the tree under the wires visible in the picture.

My technique is to clamp on and lift. The smaller trees come right out, but the larger ones required a little push. My soil is clayey, silt loess and is still moist from rain 3 or 4 days ago. It was cracking from drought before that. I tried to keep the tree upright until I got it out into a lane, then laid it down and skidded it out. After getting it out and under the wires, I rolled it back near vertical to put it on the pile. I'm planning on using my grapple to haul the pile to disposal.

IMG_20240922_154036333.jpg

I'm very pleased with the puller but perplexed with the jaw closure issue. As you can tell, I've given it a pretty good test. I'd like to hear from anyone that has one.
 
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PoTreeBoy

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I've investigated closer and come to the conclusion that the tree puller is made that way, the landhonor site states the opening range to be 2-8" and I didn't find anything bent. I'm thinking about moving the cylinder lug on the clamp arm about 2" closer to the pivot. This will close the jaws, but I'm not sure how much the max. opening will decrease. It'll also reduce the clamping force, but I don't think that's a problem - it's capable of crushing the stems now.
 

PoTreeBoy

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I cut the cylinder lug off and re-welded it 1-1/2" or so closer to the pivot point so the jaws close fully. It only reduced the max. opening 1/2" or so. I'm sure it reduces the clamping force, but the jaws still close tight enough not to slip.

It will occasionally shear off a small stem, but overall I'm happy with it.

IMG_20241012_102430227.jpg
 
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