Boat owners- garage question

BAP

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Don’t forget, a 12’ overhead garage door doesn’t give you 12’ of clearance.
 
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fried1765

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Build it for the next owner. If you had to sale what would add value ? I have 10x10 doors on my shop but could put 12 tall on the end wall. We built our RV shed 20/45 with 15 ft wall. I should have gone 50 ft as our current rv is 44ft from pin to rear
Excellent advice!
 

The Evil Twin

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Just a thought, use sloped, parallel chord trusses to get height in the center for the boat without the side walls having to be so tall. I, of course, don't have any idea what you're considering.
That is a thought. The hold up there is that we would like to build it as a drive thru. Doors opposite of each other so I could just pull through the building and not have to back it in. Of course, we all WANT things and don't get them 😆
 

The Evil Twin

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Build it for the next owner. If you had to sale what would add value ? I have 10x10 doors on my shop but could put 12 tall on the end wall. We built our RV shed 20/45 with 15 ft wall. I should have gone 50 ft as our current rv is 44ft from pin to rear
Our kids will be the one to sell it. Lol. Custom home, 9 acres in the woods. We aren't moving until it's in a pine box.
 
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The Evil Twin

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We are looking for something similar to what's below. I emailed a manufacturer and they said the bridge is 96" with the arch up. 66" with it down. Draft is 39". Height on a bunk trailer is roughly 6" more than the sum, but won't give a real number because there are variables across trailers. They didn't mention roller trailers, but I know they sit higher.
All those numbers equate to just shy of 12' with the arch up. Right around 9' with the arch down. Just on this particular model, of course. That makes a 16w x 12h door ample for the boat. We plan on doing a couple boat shows with measuring tape in hand before pulling any triggers.

2023_Crownline_280_XSS_Bowrider_U9uFmK9790he.jpg
 
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PoTreeBoy

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That is a thought. The hold up there is that we would like to build it as a drive thru. Doors opposite of each other so I could just pull through the building and not have to back it in. Of course, we all WANT things and don't get them 😆
I was thinking of something like this with a door at each end.

1722347895802.png
 
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Hkb82

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No question if it were me I’d go with 14 foot doors. You’re talking about a new build. I’m surprised it’s that much more of a cost to go from 12-14’ doors. Obviously cost of doors and materials go up.
What’s a ball park cost for your area between the two sizes?
 

fried1765

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No question if it were me I’d go with 14 foot doors. You’re talking about a new build. I’m surprised it’s that much more of a cost to go from 12-14’ doors. Obviously cost of doors and materials go up.
What’s a ball park cost for your area between the two sizes?
+1 on 14' doors
 

The Evil Twin

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I was thinking of something like this with a door at each end.

View attachment 133851
Ah, I see what you are saying. I was thinking you were talking about a large loafing shed. So the roof would only be sloped in one direction. That way, backing a boat in, the stern would be at the low side of the building.
That's essentially what I'm thinking, but with the door to one side. It's a better use of space to have the large item (boat) on one side and room for the ATVs, MX bikes, tractor, attachments, etc on the other. If the boat is in the middle, the "extra" room is broken into 2 smaller sections. Does that make sense?
It's all planning stage right now anyway. To be honest, a totally enclosed building isn't even necessary. It is what I'm shooting for though.
 

The Evil Twin

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No question if it were me I’d go with 14 foot doors. You’re talking about a new build. I’m surprised it’s that much more of a cost to go from 12-14’ doors. Obviously cost of doors and materials go up.
What’s a ball park cost for your area between the two sizes?
It's not the cost of the doors as much as the height of the building. My preference is to have the door offset to one side. So the door height dictates leg height. Increasing the leg height above 14' increases the materials- leg spacing is narrower also. So more legs. Probably has to do with wind and snow load. We would also have to use concrete footers.
I don't recall the exact $ difference, but it was enough to make me think twice.
 

The Evil Twin

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Appreciate the input. Especially @mcmxi with the real world numbers. It would be nice to hear from other boat owners with actual measurements vs. claimed draft/ clearance from the manufacturer.
Looks like a 12' door will be plenty tall. Just shy of 3' to spare.
 

fried1765

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It's not the cost of the doors as much as the height of the building. My preference is to have the door offset to one side. So the door height dictates leg height. Increasing the leg height above 14' increases the materials- leg spacing is narrower also. So more legs. Probably has to do with wind and snow load. We would also have to use concrete footers.
I don't recall the exact $ difference, but it was enough to make me think twice.
You should probably consider talking with "Morton Buildings".
They may not be the cheapest, but are nationwide,......... and Morton is a first class company.
I have a 36' x 48' x 14' Morton, built in 1984.
40 years old, and still looking great!
Concrete footings were not required!
 

skeets

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A bud has a 250 Dauntless Boston Whaler with a roof and rocket launchers, soo 10 feet from the deck maybe, the doors he has are like what you would see where they do big trucks, I dont know the height or how wide but BIG, anyway what he does on the off season, he has concrete floor so he will back the beast in and then unhitch it, jack up the trailer and set those wheel dollies under the axel wheels. And them he can move it to the side of the garage out of the way, and still do what ever he needs to do on her. I never got that much in to mine, but then mine wasnt 100k either. They are a money pit, but I still miss my boat
 

The Evil Twin

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You should probably consider talking with "Morton Buildings".
They may not be the cheapest, but are nationwide,......... and Morton is a first class company.
I have a 36' x 48' x 14' Morton, built in 1984.
40 years old, and still looking great!
Concrete footings were not required!
They just set yours on dirt?!?
I have looked into their products. They should have a slab or footers under your columns. I certainly would not want a wood frame on grade.
 

The Evil Twin

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A bud has a 250 Dauntless Boston Whaler with a roof and rocket launchers, soo 10 feet from the deck maybe, the doors he has are like what you would see where they do big trucks, I dont know the height or how wide but BIG, anyway what he does on the off season, he has concrete floor so he will back the beast in and then unhitch it, jack up the trailer and set those wheel dollies under the axel wheels. And them he can move it to the side of the garage out of the way, and still do what ever he needs to do on her. I never got that much in to mine, but then mine wasnt 100k either. They are a money pit, but I still miss my boat
You think boats are a money pit? Try racing! I'm trying to get back into boating to SAVE money! 😂
 
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fried1765

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They just set yours on dirt?!?
I have looked into their products. They should have a slab or footers under your columns. I certainly would not want a wood frame on grade.
Yup!
40 years ago, Morton drilled holes and set 6x6 PT wood posts.
Poured in a bag of dry cement first.
Posts all appear to be in excellent condition.
 

PoTreeBoy

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Ah, I see what you are saying. I was thinking you were talking about a large loafing shed. So the roof would only be sloped in one direction. That way, backing a boat in, the stern would be at the low side of the building.
That's essentially what I'm thinking, but with the door to one side. It's a better use of space to have the large item (boat) on one side and room for the ATVs, MX bikes, tractor, attachments, etc on the other. If the boat is in the middle, the "extra" room is broken into 2 smaller sections. Does that make sense?
It's all planning stage right now anyway. To be honest, a totally enclosed building isn't even necessary. It is what I'm shooting for though.
Makes sense. You could offset it by using short trusses on one side and long trusses on the other, so you'd have one tall wall and one short wall. I don't know how that would affect the cost.
My ex-neighbor built a 24x36 w/14'? door when he drove a truck. 2x4 stud wall, wood truss, corrugated steel roof and siding.
Screenshot_20240730-165152-107.png
 
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The Evil Twin

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Yup!
40 years ago, Morton drilled holes and set 6x6 PT wood posts.
Poured in a bag of dry cement first.
Posts all appear to be in excellent condition.
Same thing. Those are footers set in concrete. Still boring holes and setting something in them then backfilling with concrete.
None the less, knowing that I will go 12 x 16 (even 10 x 16 would work) they can use anchors in the gravel/ dirt.