Name Info needed

[coralhead]

After having my fan bearings lock up on my B7100, I proceeded to remove all the front sheet metal and radiator. I am looking for the name of the designer who put that nice stud/nut that is next to impossible to get to. I was able to bend up a cheap 10mm openend I had laying around and was able to get it removed. The fan housing bearings were shot and one in pieces. I was able to get some replacements from McMaster Carr for $5.34 apiece and have it back together. Much better than the cost of a new fan/dyno. I think that the prior owner that cracked/overheated the head along with melting the solder out of the top of the radiator did not check the fan bearings. I believe the grease was melted out of the bearings and ran dry for awhile. One nice thing is that the replacement head has a port for a temp gage in the head. Putting the fan back on was a bit of a hassel but stuck the nut on the tip of my finger with rtv and fingered it onto the stud. Don't laugh, it works. All back together and waitng till later to restart.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Chances are his name is in Japanese and you wouldn't be able to pronounce it anyways!

 

[Stumpy]

I feel your pain. At the quick lube cursing "the engineer who designed this piece of crap" was one of my favorite pass times while removing the 50 skid plate bolts so I could get to the oil filter. Having played the part a couple of times now I find designing for easy maintenance usually gets pushed to job three when the deadline is breathing down your neck (so almost always).

Stuck the nut to your finger with rtv... That's a new one but I like it!

 

[lsmurphy]

Bearing grease works too, anything to hold it to the tip of your finger.



You got a number on the bearings?

 

[Lil Foot]

I have tacked a nut to the tip of my latex-gloved finger with crazy glue. (cyanoacrylate)

 

[tmessenger]

I just had my 1979 B7100 apart to re-lube those bearings good thing to as the back one was OK but the front one was getting dry (going over all this kind of stuff for this new to me tractor). I just used a standard 10mm combo box end open end for the hidden nut. I could move it just a little with box end then move it a little with the open end then back to the box end then flip the open end over etc. Getting it off took some time but putting it back on I use a small magnet on telescoping wand to hold the nut in place the I used a long thin screwdriver to hold the net against the stud so I could pull the magnet off then holding the nut with one screwdriver I used another long thin screwdriver to spin the nut. This was easier then it sounds and fast to get it back on.

And if you think this is bad you need to buy and work on a Citroen DS it will put this job in perspective.

Tim

 

[coralhead]

Bearing grease works too, anything to hold it to the tip of your finger.



You got a number on the bearings?

Industry Std size 6201. McMaster Carr # 5972k42.

I got the sealed instead of the shielded.

Also helps to make sure that the thread and nut assemble freely before installing housing. That way you can fingertip it most of the way and finish up with a wrench.

 

[Lil Foot]

Industry Std size 6201. McMaster Carr # 5972k42.

Thanks, info stashed for future reference.

 

[KUBOTA4900]

Yup hav used same to hold flat n lock waser and the nut in place long enough to get threads started

or stuffed paper or watever into a socket to hav the nut at the very edge to get threads started

or duct taped nut to open end wrench to hold it

the things we do but they work and get er done