L2350dt (year 1992) would like to add temp gauge, does anyone know if there is a plug on the engine that can be removed to add the temp sensor
L2350DT adding temp gauge
- Thread starter baytiburon
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
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Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Right rear of the head.
If you don't have the WSM for your tractor just ask and I'll send you a link to download one.
If you don't have the WSM for your tractor just ask and I'll send you a link to download one.
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That plug might be easy to access, but it's most likely a straight cut metric thread. You will need to remove it, identify the thread size/pitch, and then try to find matching adapter for your gauge to thread into. That may not be as easy as it sounds. I would look at the thermostat housing. There just might be a pipe plug somewhere that can be removed providing a port you can use.
On my L305 it has the tapped hole for the temp sensor in the same location in the head. Yours may be different, but the thread is 12mm x 1.25 pitch.
You can go to a local O'Reilly Auto and pick up a pack of four fittings for sending units. One in the pack is 12mmx 1.25 pitch. Cost was around $10. That bag of fittings is located near their gauges.
I say this because I called the store, then went into the store, then went to hardware, then NAPA, and no one had that fitting. Then back to O'Really to get something else and happened to ask the manager!!!!
You can go to a local O'Reilly Auto and pick up a pack of four fittings for sending units. One in the pack is 12mmx 1.25 pitch. Cost was around $10. That bag of fittings is located near their gauges.
I say this because I called the store, then went into the store, then went to hardware, then NAPA, and no one had that fitting. Then back to O'Really to get something else and happened to ask the manager!!!!
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
There isn't one there, I would have told him if there was one there, as yes it would be easier.
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Just please send me a link and thanks for all the helpRight rear of the head.
If you don't have the WSM for your tractor just ask and I'll send you a link to download one.
Resurrecting this thread from the dead.
Just acquired a L2350DT and I absolutely MUST have an analog water temperature gauge. Oil pressure would be nice too....but coolant temp is a must have for me.
This thread seems to have petered out. Anyone come up with a viable solution for adding a temp gauge (hopefully water proof) and the requisite fittings?
I've searched and not come up with much.
Thank You,
Flint.
Just acquired a L2350DT and I absolutely MUST have an analog water temperature gauge. Oil pressure would be nice too....but coolant temp is a must have for me.
This thread seems to have petered out. Anyone come up with a viable solution for adding a temp gauge (hopefully water proof) and the requisite fittings?
I've searched and not come up with much.
Thank You,
Flint.
OK revisiting this.
I ordered a Coolant Temperature Gauge and Sensor, confident I could find some place to mount the Sensor.
I didn't like the idea of placing a sensor at the rear of the head for several reasons so I got to looking around for another spot. As luck would have it....Kubota already cast a 'boss' into the water jacket just to the side of the thermostat. It even has a hole about 1/2 the distance into the casting. It is clear they intended 'something' to be drilled, tapped and installed there.
Once drilled...you can see the transition into the bore of the Water Jacket is perfect (right along the inside wall). This was engineered....no question about it.
The sensor that came with my Gauge kit is only about an inch long so it would not protrude into the bore, but even if it had....it would have fallen below the bottom of the thermostat and not interfered in any way.
Continued Below:
I ordered a Coolant Temperature Gauge and Sensor, confident I could find some place to mount the Sensor.
I didn't like the idea of placing a sensor at the rear of the head for several reasons so I got to looking around for another spot. As luck would have it....Kubota already cast a 'boss' into the water jacket just to the side of the thermostat. It even has a hole about 1/2 the distance into the casting. It is clear they intended 'something' to be drilled, tapped and installed there.
Once drilled...you can see the transition into the bore of the Water Jacket is perfect (right along the inside wall). This was engineered....no question about it.
The sensor that came with my Gauge kit is only about an inch long so it would not protrude into the bore, but even if it had....it would have fallen below the bottom of the thermostat and not interfered in any way.
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With the location of the sensor selected. I went about installing the Gauge itself.
Those with a L2350DT (4 wheel Drive) will have a dash with a fuel gauge on the right, and multi-function gauge (tachometer/hour meter/battery and oil lights) in the center. So just to the left of the center gauge is the logical spot to add an auxiliary gauge.
The easiest and most precise way to create a hole in the dash is to use a Knock Out punch....but who has one of those right? So the next best thing is a bi-metal hole saw.
But before you go 'hogging out' a hole in your dash with one of these....permit me to offer a few tips. If you've ever used a hole saw in thin metal (using a hand held drill) then you already know its going to 'catch' at some point and walk out of the hole. If you don't want it 'walking' across your nice dash....then do the following:
First cut a small block of wood that is 3/4" thick and carefully cut a hole in that with your hole-saw.
Next use the pilot drill in the hole saw to drill a pilot hole in your 'carefully measured' spot on the dash. Just barely punch through. THEN.....flip the drill bit over so that 'shank' is now exposed instead of the cutting edge.
Now place your block of wood and hole-saw (with reversed bit) centered over the pilot hole in the dash.
Continued below:
Those with a L2350DT (4 wheel Drive) will have a dash with a fuel gauge on the right, and multi-function gauge (tachometer/hour meter/battery and oil lights) in the center. So just to the left of the center gauge is the logical spot to add an auxiliary gauge.
The easiest and most precise way to create a hole in the dash is to use a Knock Out punch....but who has one of those right? So the next best thing is a bi-metal hole saw.
But before you go 'hogging out' a hole in your dash with one of these....permit me to offer a few tips. If you've ever used a hole saw in thin metal (using a hand held drill) then you already know its going to 'catch' at some point and walk out of the hole. If you don't want it 'walking' across your nice dash....then do the following:
First cut a small block of wood that is 3/4" thick and carefully cut a hole in that with your hole-saw.
Next use the pilot drill in the hole saw to drill a pilot hole in your 'carefully measured' spot on the dash. Just barely punch through. THEN.....flip the drill bit over so that 'shank' is now exposed instead of the cutting edge.
Now place your block of wood and hole-saw (with reversed bit) centered over the pilot hole in the dash.
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Now hand place the hole-saw (not in a drill) in the block of wood, double check that everything looks square and where you want it.
When satisfied all is well, clamp the pee-diddly out of the wooden block. It MUST not move. The purpose of the block is to contain and guide the hole-saw in conjunction with the reversed drill bit. DRILL SLOWLY!
Take your time and drill slowly....a variable speed drill is helpful here. If all goes well, the result should be a nice, neat hole.
IF you need to dress the hole any or remove any burrs....then a half round file will do so easily.
Many dash mounted gauges require a 2-1/16ths hole. I recommend going one size smaller (2") as a certain amount of wobble will be present when drilling. I used a 2" hole-saw and the gauge dropped in perfectly.
When satisfied all is well, clamp the pee-diddly out of the wooden block. It MUST not move. The purpose of the block is to contain and guide the hole-saw in conjunction with the reversed drill bit. DRILL SLOWLY!
Take your time and drill slowly....a variable speed drill is helpful here. If all goes well, the result should be a nice, neat hole.
IF you need to dress the hole any or remove any burrs....then a half round file will do so easily.
Many dash mounted gauges require a 2-1/16ths hole. I recommend going one size smaller (2") as a certain amount of wobble will be present when drilling. I used a 2" hole-saw and the gauge dropped in perfectly.
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^^^^^
IF you choose to mount your sending unit/sensor in the water jacket (drilled and tapped) you will need to do so 'in place'. I ordered a used water jacket intending to do all of that 'on the bench' and then just swap out the parts when ready.
Well.....I failed to look carefully at how the water jacket is mounted and as it turns out you can NOT access two of the nuts/bolts without first removing the water pump. So plan on doing it in place.
There is plenty of room to do it. Just remove the air intake hose on the right side of the engine. Remove the T-stat housing *upper* and the T-stat. Stuff a rag down the bore of the water jacket to catch any metal shavings. Drill it out and tap it.
Have a new T-stat gasket on hand (the new one's are metal). Good time to replace the T-stat if yours is old.
Button it back up, top off the radiator. Wire in your leads to the gauge. Check for leaks then fire it up.
Worked my tractor today pretty hard with a box blade and it never got over 170°F I was proud to see. I replaced my 180 Tstat with a 160° F unit since I live in a hot climate.
The gauge I used is also 'Back Lit' in case you need to see it after dark.
IF you choose to mount your sending unit/sensor in the water jacket (drilled and tapped) you will need to do so 'in place'. I ordered a used water jacket intending to do all of that 'on the bench' and then just swap out the parts when ready.
Well.....I failed to look carefully at how the water jacket is mounted and as it turns out you can NOT access two of the nuts/bolts without first removing the water pump. So plan on doing it in place.
There is plenty of room to do it. Just remove the air intake hose on the right side of the engine. Remove the T-stat housing *upper* and the T-stat. Stuff a rag down the bore of the water jacket to catch any metal shavings. Drill it out and tap it.
Have a new T-stat gasket on hand (the new one's are metal). Good time to replace the T-stat if yours is old.
Button it back up, top off the radiator. Wire in your leads to the gauge. Check for leaks then fire it up.
Worked my tractor today pretty hard with a box blade and it never got over 170°F I was proud to see. I replaced my 180 Tstat with a 160° F unit since I live in a hot climate.
The gauge I used is also 'Back Lit' in case you need to see it after dark.
Nice project and Very Nice Write-Up, Flintknapper!
I only wish you’d taken and posted a pic of the inside of that housing (for example, THIS view—AFTER you’d installed the sensor.)
I only wish you’d taken and posted a pic of the inside of that housing (for example, THIS view—AFTER you’d installed the sensor.)
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It would look no different. The probe on the sensor doesn't protrude into the bore of the housing.
A longer one would/might.....but still won't interfere with the operation of the thermostat.
The probe portion of the sensor being somewhat smaller in diameter than the threaded portion allows it to be fully surrounded by the coolant, it just doesn't stick out into the bore of the water jacket.