B2150 HST - fuel camshaft bearing repair, hydraulic pump drive

[brobertson13]

B2150
2500 hours
~27 years old

I thought I recently had a hydraulic pump failure.
Turns out, the hydraulic pump is driven from a gear on the end of the fuel camshaft.
The bearing for the fuel camshaft failed, and the camshaft was pushed downward by the injector assembly, thereby disengaging the hydraulic pump gear.
So, the hydraulic failure was just a symptom of the main problem.
So... I need to replace the fuel camshaft bearing.



This is the fuel camshaft.
Bearing #130 is the one that failed and needs replacing.
https://www.messicks.com/commoncatalog?vendor=ku&modelId=84458&sectionId=214576&diagramId=322207

Here's the hydraulic pump diagram.
#20 is the cast/machined part that is damaged and needs to be replaced.
The #60 gear is attached to the splines in the above fuel camshaft diagram.
https://www.messicks.com/commoncatalog?vendor=ku&modelId=84458&sectionId=214587&diagramId=322299

Failed bearing... no balls... just inner and outer race.

Housing damage.

Questions...
1. Does the bearing come out, in the direction towards the splines (towards the back of the tractor)? Or does the entire fuel camshaft need to be removed (from the front of the tractor), and bearing is removed by pressing it inwards, towards the cam area?

2. Any recommendations on pulling the bearing from the shaft and the race from the case?

3. Since all the bearing debris and balls are in the crankcase... I suppose I need to remove the oil pan to clean it out? Any recommendations on removing oil pan (4WD shaft is in the way). Drop the front axle trunnion... and/or remove driveshaft??

4. Any other recommendations on other repairs in the fuel camshaft area, while I have everything torn apart?

Thanks for any help.
Brian

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Normally the bearing comes out the front, but I think you might be able to get it out the back, I don't see a ridge on the block that holds the bearing as the flat Washer behind the gear is what holds the bearing from coming out the back.
go in threw the injection pump hole and gently tap the inner and outer leftover bearing sections out the back, they are not press fit so they should just slide off.

I personally would pull and replace the other bearing in the housing too as it probably was chewing on some of that junk too.

If that model has a steel oil pan ( some have aluminum pans) get a neodymium magnet and slap it on the pan and call it good (actually really good) as it will grab any loose metal partials down the line too.
Or Yea drop the driveshaft and then drop the pan, warning some models won't let you drop the pan without also dropping the front axle housing too.

 

[brobertson13]

Normally the bearing comes out the front, but I think you might be able to get it out the back, I don't see a ridge on the block that holds the bearing as the flat Washer behind the gear is what holds the bearing from coming out the back.
go in threw the injection pump hole and gently tap the inner and outer leftover bearing sections out the back, they are not press fit so they should just slide off.

I personally would pull and replace the other bearing in the housing too as it probably was chewing on some of that junk too.

If that model has a steel oil pan ( some have aluminum pans) get a neodymium magnet and slap it on the pan and call it good (actually really good) as it will grab any loose metal partials down the line too.
Or Yea drop the driveshaft and then drop the pan, warning some models won't let you drop the pan without also dropping the front axle housing too.

Thanks North Idaho Wolfman.
I was able to create a homemade puller, to get between the races and pull them out the back end.

As for the front bearing... I agree, I would normally replace it, but that is a much bigger job, since the front end needs disassembled. And I'd be concerned about the timing, relative to the fuel camshaft re-assembly. So... I may gamble on this until next winter, when I'd have more time for maintenance.

Have you done this before?
Seems like all those bearings and rings need disassembled.?
I have the Workshop manual... is there details on removal and assembly? I can't seem to find any details on it?

It does have a steel oil pan... so I've ordered some neodymium magnets.
After I drained the oil, I checked it with a magnet... no major pieces. The oil filter was pretty junked up though. I'm going to run new oil and filter for 15 minutes or so... and drain and check again.

Thanks again for the help.
Brian

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I meant the other bearing that's in the housing just in front of the pump.

 

[brobertson13]

I meant the other bearing that's in the housing just in front of the pump.

Oh yeah... definitely, replacing that one too (#70). It had lots of metal shavings (like graphite) in it.
I'm having the pump rebuilt as well (even though it's isolated from the damage)... since it's 27 years old, and it's already off the tractor... figured I might as well.

Although, one question with that...
Is the #30 gear a press fit into #70.
I disassembled it from the housing... then tapped on it, but it didn't move any. Seems pretty snug?
But it has the spring clip... so I assume it should come out easy?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes it should come off fairly easily with the spring clip removed.

 

[IanSmithUK]

Hello, I have exactly the same problem with my B2150. Your discussion above has helped me enormously as the workshop manual is very limited in detail. So thank you for all that information including your ingenious pulling device which I copied. I have been able to obtain a second hand pump holder as new ones now appear to be unavailable and I will be replacing the same two bearings that you describe above.
Like you I do not want to disturb the front end of the camshaft. I have a question; was the eventual rebuild successful without touching the front end.