MX 5200. I need to replace my clutch. Just wondering what the thoughts are on where to purchase. Should I go to my local dealership or is there a better option? Any help or advise would be appreciated. Thanks
MX 5200 Clutch
- Thread starter LDG
- Start date
In trying to figure out what you're asking, are you going to install it yourself or?
If you are paying someone to install, yes, dealer is usually a better (although more expensive) option. Factory trained techs trump shade-tree techs in most cases.
If you are paying someone to install, yes, dealer is usually a better (although more expensive) option. Factory trained techs trump shade-tree techs in most cases.
Honestly, many will direct you toward Messicks and that's fine. The problem I have is shipping time and shipping COST. By time you pay for the shipping cost and then the wait time, it's quicker and in the case of a clutch job, likely less expensive to get it at a local (to you) dealer. What parts are you ordering? Have you had it apart already to inspect the flywheel?
Tractor only has 294 Hours on it. I don't have it completely apart yet, but should on Saturday. I feel like the clutch will be all that is needed since only 294 hours on it. Local dealership has to Order & said should take 10 days. Also, they claim you have to purchase "Clutch Kit" which comes with pressure plate & throw-out bearing for $475.00. When I first noticed something was going on, I thought I would look into adjusting the clutch only to discover there was no adjustment left, I bought this tractor new about 4 years ago & find it odd that all the adjustment was used up??
rbargeron
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
The more concerning thing here is why the clutch has failed in only 300 hours, a pretty unheard-of short clutch life. I recently had my L48 apart for HST work and put in a new clutch disc - but at 2000 hours the old disc was virtually the same thickness as the new one.
What were its symptoms - just slippage? any chatter? smell? noise. Its possible it was not correctly assembled when new - a wrong part (release bearing, linkage, something affecting the stack-up).
Once you sort that out, a generic aftermarket clutch (or kit) will work just fine. It's a 10-1/4" diameter, 19-spline disk used in MANY tractor models. Examples here (disc only) and here (clutch kit). I've replaced about 6 over the years - all with AG generics, all still working fine.
Depending on how it got worn out, the pressure plate (clutch cover) might still be fine - flat and not discolored. The flywheel may be ok too, especially one with so little time on it. I'd replace the release bearing just for good measure.
I always take it apart before ordering pieces - so there aren't too many any extra part$$ left over. Take care, Dick B
What were its symptoms - just slippage? any chatter? smell? noise. Its possible it was not correctly assembled when new - a wrong part (release bearing, linkage, something affecting the stack-up).
Once you sort that out, a generic aftermarket clutch (or kit) will work just fine. It's a 10-1/4" diameter, 19-spline disk used in MANY tractor models. Examples here (disc only) and here (clutch kit). I've replaced about 6 over the years - all with AG generics, all still working fine.
Depending on how it got worn out, the pressure plate (clutch cover) might still be fine - flat and not discolored. The flywheel may be ok too, especially one with so little time on it. I'd replace the release bearing just for good measure.
I always take it apart before ordering pieces - so there aren't too many any extra part$$ left over. Take care, Dick B
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Thanks for your view on this. What puzzles me is why all the adjustemet was used up. Tractor was bought new only about 4 years ago. Again Thanks
rbargeron
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
I've seen clutched trashed in 12 hours' use (L3901). It happens.
On a lot of those tractors with relatively low hour clutch failures, I saw lots of them and 99.99% of the time they were tractors that had a loader on them (and the loader was well-used), but with gear drive (most HST's you never use the clutch). .01% were GST's or one HST that the splines were trashed. Slipping the clutch to stop/start/change direction wears it no matter how much it's slipped, it's wearing. Thus, frequent directional changes wears the friction material. Secondly use of a tractor as a bulldozer while slipping the clutch going into a dirt berm or gravel pile or pushing trees over, wears it out as well. Those were the most common causes.
Some hate HST's because of the "noise", and that's fine. But you have to be mindful of how you're using the clutch on gear driven tractors. Sometimes you're just slipping it into a pile and you don't even know you're doing it. I've caught myself many times doing it on my little MF, so I'm guilty too. Fact is, if you are doing frequent directional changes or stop/start, the HST is really a better option--from a clutch wear standpoint.
Anyway, hope you get 'er going quick and under budget.
On a lot of those tractors with relatively low hour clutch failures, I saw lots of them and 99.99% of the time they were tractors that had a loader on them (and the loader was well-used), but with gear drive (most HST's you never use the clutch). .01% were GST's or one HST that the splines were trashed. Slipping the clutch to stop/start/change direction wears it no matter how much it's slipped, it's wearing. Thus, frequent directional changes wears the friction material. Secondly use of a tractor as a bulldozer while slipping the clutch going into a dirt berm or gravel pile or pushing trees over, wears it out as well. Those were the most common causes.
Some hate HST's because of the "noise", and that's fine. But you have to be mindful of how you're using the clutch on gear driven tractors. Sometimes you're just slipping it into a pile and you don't even know you're doing it. I've caught myself many times doing it on my little MF, so I'm guilty too. Fact is, if you are doing frequent directional changes or stop/start, the HST is really a better option--from a clutch wear standpoint.
Anyway, hope you get 'er going quick and under budget.
I couldn't agree more. I too have seen clutches that didn't last 50 hours. I have also seen clutches go for a couple thousand hours or more. It's not the clutch or the breed of tractor that makes the difference. It's the type of use and how it's treated.
In this case the complaint (or at least one of them) is that the adjustment was all used up. I saw no mention of how often or how many times the adjustment was made. If the clutch was slipping at any other points between said adjustments,
In my experience when the adjustment is all used up, so is the clutch.