Is this a third function setup on my B8200? Can't find any info on it

[JUSS10]

I recently picked up a 1985 B8200HST DT that came with a loader and front mounted snow blower with hydraulic lift. I recently did all the fluids on the tractor and have a leak on a rear line that I'm assuming was used for the snow blower but can't find much info on it. Attached are photos of the fitting/adapter (circled in red). There are two long lines attached to it that are connected together under the tractor with a quick coupler. It appears to be connected between the hydraulic block that powers the loader/steering and the hydraulic control valve for the rear 3 point hitch.

There is mention of a rear remote setup for this tractor in the WSM but it doesn't show anything about this fitting. Also can't find it in any of the parts diagrams that I have or are on Messicks. Curious if anyone has any info about this. I'm actually concerned it's throwing off the 3 point because when I lower the loader, the rear implement also drops if I don't have the implement "locked" up with the implement speed control knob all the way tight. Maybe thats normal with a loader and 3pt on this model, I don't know.

If this is a normal setup, is there any reason I can't take the valve used for the lift cylinder of the blower and mount on the rear of the tractor to use for a rear top link or other accessories?

Attached are some photos of the adapter and the valve that came with the tractor for the blower.

Ironically the WSM does speak of an optional rear control valve that connects to two ports (I believe what I have circled in blue) on the top of the main control valve for the 3pt hitch. I'd assume these are lower pressure but is there any reason not to tap in there vs this weird adapter my tractor came with?

 

[JUSS10]

actually upon further looking at the manual, it appears what I have circled in RED in this photo are the two aux ports. Looks like they are under and to either side of the "P" port. Regardless, would like some info on the adapter my tractor has on it if possible.

 

[kenrevo]

The fittings and hose that go into your 3-point hitch are part of the power beyond. The fittings are added in to create another area for a hydraulic valve (like rear remotes). It is a very rare option for the b8200, b9800 and b2150 and usually only on tractors that used a trencher attachment. The B5550 and B5550A manuals have them listed. I used those lines on my tractor to add in rear remotes for a hydraulic top link.

 

[JUSS10]

The fittings and hose that go into your 3-point hitch are part of the power beyond. The fittings are added in to create another area for a hydraulic valve (like rear remotes). It is a very rare option for the b8200, b9800 and b2150 and usually only on tractors that used a trencher attachment. The B5550 and B5550A manuals have them listed. I used those lines on my tractor to add in rear remotes for a hydraulic top link.

so what is the benefit of using this over the built in auxiliary spool? Pressure?

 

[kenrevo]

I don't know on any built in spool that can be used for rear remotes. I have a B9200 which is similar to the b8200 and I believe all the ports you identified are for test ports, relief valve adjustments or plugs from the original machining operation.

 

[JUSS10]

I don't know on any built in spool that can be used for rear remotes. I have a B9200 which is similar to the b8200 and I believe all the ports you identified are for test ports, relief valve adjustments or plugs from the original machining operation.

Thats what I thought but the WSM pretty clearly states that there is an auxiliary spool that can can run a rear remote. I have the screen shots of the WSM in the first post. second post shows a photo later on in the WSM that shows the two ports that are listed as ports A and B for the Aux spool.

also this note when talking about the tractors features at the beginning of the WSM

 

[JUSS10]

some more screen shots

 

[JUSS10]

The more I look at it, it appears to be a valve itself. Not sure how you actuate it. It says to attach an optional control lever to actuate it.

There is a shaft with a sleeve cover pinned to it that comes out the side of the control valve right by the arm for the 3pt hitch lever. I have that highlighted below. I took a visegrip and was able to rock the shaft a little with ease. I plan to pop the spring pin out to get the sleeve off. Looks like there is a shaft with flat cut in to it for the optional lever to attach to. you can clearly see that the shaft coming out the side connects to an internal linkage that actuates the aux spool 2 in the control valve.

alright, back to work...

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Its an aftermarket added function valve.

You can look at manuals all day long and it really won't help you out.

From the pictures it looks to be all there, what are you trying to figure out exactly?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Your second picture has the spool valve on the end of the bracket, not other controls are needed.

 

[JUSS10]

Its an aftermarket added function valve.

You can look at manuals all day long and it really won't help you out.

From the pictures it looks to be all there, what are you trying to figure out exactly?

Guess I just wanted to know what it was from as I hadn't seen it on any other B8200 I looked at. All that to say I'm more interested in the Aux spool that's built in to the tractor. If all it really needs is a lever to attach to the shaft I have highlighted in post #8, then I'd rather go that way and remove the add on unit and not have to deal with mounting another valve somewhere on the tractor with extra hosing.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The factory three point valve does not have an extra valve, that was an add on option.
I would have to see the side of your three point valve to know if someone added that option to it on build, but it very very very unlikely.
And getting that valve add on now... well lets say you would have better luck digging up diamonds or gold in your back yard.

 

[JUSS10]

The factory three point valve does not have an extra valve, that was an add on option.
I would have to see the side of your three point valve to know if someone added that option to it on build, but it very very very unlikely.
And getting that valve add on now... well lets say you would have better luck digging up diamonds or gold in your back yard.

So the Auxiliary control valve that is mentioned throughout the WSM and stated as spool 2 in the control valve wasnt actually on the tractor? I see that the lever and hoses are listed as optional. The shaft I have highlighted in post 8 I clearly have coming out the side of my valve body right by the 3 point lift level.

Just so I understand correctly, you are saying the valve shown in the WSM and called spool 2 isn't normally in the tractor? It was something you had to buy and put in? I have the two ports (A and B) as well as the shaft that I have coming out the side of my valve body circled in red.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

So if everything you say is so, then you do have the option on it.
Hook up a set of lines and turn the valve, you'll very likely have to make your own lever as I wouldn't think you could get one the factory one for it.
You'll have to remove all the added fittings for the add on valve as it very well might interfere with operation of the original valves.

 

[JUSS10]

I crawled under and put a vise grips on this and it pivots like a valve and snaps back to center. I may give it a try and I feel like the add on fittings are indeed throwing things off on my 3 point. Would love to ditch that and use what’s already on the tractor.

Any clue what the original lever would have looked like? Can’t find a part number or any diagram with it.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I've looked everywhere I can think of and no mention of that valve or linkage for it.
What you see is a collar that held on by a roll pin, you'll need to remove that collar and either add a lever to it, or I would suggest making a new collar with a tab off of it to bolt a lever to, this gives you the option of 1 not messing up the original collar and 2 having the ability to bolt on a lever that you can alter accordingly to make it work right for you.
Key point to the collar is that there is an O-ring behind it to keep a seal on the case, so a made collar needs to be the same exact length and have the roll pin location in the same place.

NOTE: Better option yet order a new collar, Spring pin, and O-ring and use that to put a tab on it to bolt a lever to, that way you know it's right.

Collar: 67830-38650
Spring pin: 05411-00518
O-ring: 04811-10100

 

[JUSS10]

I've looked everywhere I can think of and no mention of that valve or linkage for it.
What you see is a collar that held on by a roll pin, you'll need to remove that collar and either add a lever to it, or I would suggest making a new collar with a tab off of it to bolt a lever to, this gives you the option of 1 not messing up the original collar and 2 having the ability to bolt on a lever that you can alter accordingly to make it work right for you.
Key point to the collar is that there is an O-ring behind it to keep a seal on the case, so a made collar needs to be the same exact length and have the roll pin location in the same place.

NOTE: Better option yet order a new collar, Spring pin, and O-ring and use that to put a tab on it to bolt a lever to, that way you know it's right.

Collar: 67830-38650
Spring pin: 05411-00518
O-ring: 04811-10100

Thanks for looking in to this. Glad I wasn't the only one who struck out. Out of curiosity I started looking to see how common the valve was. This is no way scientific, but I saw a complete transmission/gearbox unit for sale on ebay for a B8200HST and the shaft was visible on that unit. Also talked to another B8200 owner who took a picture and his tractor also has the shaft/color and said he could move his as well.

Machining a collar that matches the one on the tractor shouldn't be a problem. I have a machine shop at work that I have access to and know how to use the lathe and mill. I may even draw up a "clocking ring" that I can laser cut and weld on to the pinned sleeve with a mating ring so I can weld a lever to that and adjust the lever position. I'll likely order some of the O rings and spring pins though on my next parts order at the dealer or online. I already plan to order the stock banjo bolt and O rings where that power take off adapter currently is.

Will report back on the findings.

 

[FlatlandTransplant]

I am glad to see someone else is doing this as well! I just saw the 2 spool mention in the WSM last night and then spent a few hours trying to find more info. After work today I looked on my tractor and I also have the covered shaft on my machine.
Did you ever give yours a try? I would really like to get the "rear hydraulic outlet" as well, but that is the next step.

I am thinking of using swagelok or yorelok fittings to run some hard lines to the rear for my aux output. If you have tried yours out do you mind sharing what size the ports are?

 

[JUSS10]

I am glad to see someone else is doing this as well! I just saw the 2 spool mention in the WSM last night and then spent a few hours trying to find more info. After work today I looked on my tractor and I also have the covered shaft on my machine.
Did you ever give yours a try? I would really like to get the "rear hydraulic outlet" as well, but that is the next step.

I am thinking of using swagelok or yorelok fittings to run some hard lines to the rear for my aux output. If you have tried yours out do you mind sharing what size the ports are?

I did try it! and it did work. Finding a fitting was the hardest part, and I'd have done it differently if I were to do it again. The threads on the tractor are M12x1.25 straight. Its a really odd size. My local hydraulic shop found an M12 to 1/4npt which I then adapted to JIC4. I spent about $30 doing all that. In the end I was able to find some aluminum fittings that are M12x1.25 to AN4. These were only $6 a piece off ebay or amazon. I bought them but never tried them out just yet.

As for actuating I just used a vise grip on the sleeve to test it. My shaft doesn't center detent well. This could be that the tractor is nearly 40 years old and this shaft was never actuated till now.

I plan to make a mount and connecting rod with a lever on it, but just haven't got around to it yet.

 

[FlatlandTransplant]

I wonder if the original connections were meant to be banjo style fittings. M12x1.25 seems to be a pretty popular banjo bolt size.