When I turn the ignition switch on to power the tractor and have not started it, after 10 seconds what should be displayed for warning symbols? Red oil pressure & what else?
L6060 Battery Annuciator
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Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Some type of charge system light should be on in the key’s run position (if tractor is not started)
Just be sure that the key is in running position. You may want to crank it a little and release key into running position. The switch may be worn but I would think that the low oil pressure light working indicates that it is in the correct position.
Just be sure that the key is in running position. You may want to crank it a little and release key into running position. The switch may be worn but I would think that the low oil pressure light working indicates that it is in the correct position.
The L6060 was new when purchased. Dealer installed high amperage alternator kit before delivery. When ignition switch in run position before starting, two Easy Checker symbols would be on. Engine oil pressure and after 2 seconds the Master System Warning on steady ( not flashing ). Electrical charge symbol was never displayed. If I started the tractor before the Master System Warning symbol illuminated, all is normal. I just watched a You Tube video on this problem. Person in video says " Master Warning Light ends up being an issue with the high amperage alternator kit not making a good ground due to painted alternator bracket. He said he removed the paint from the bracket where the bracket mounts to the engine and it fixed the problem. Any thoughts on this?
Russell, the L60 series have an Intellipanel which is pretty different from panels on other earlier tractors. Will check mine when I get chores done. Messing with electronics could have a down side with the computer controls. Since alternator is a dealer install they should fix it.
So from my pictures, after 10 sec, the battery symbol light should also be on, the “electrical charge indicator”. The fuel pump can be heard to operate. After that screen, and if no glow plug symbol is displayed, I would turn the key against spring and crank to start.
It sounds like you have two questions, what is “normal”, and is it safe to follow the video you saw. It does sound as though after the welcome screen you are not seeing the battery symbol. Is the tractor starting and running normally?
My first guess is that it never hurts to have proper grounds. My free non expert advice is to check with dealer, and disconnect battery first. But this is a guess, no direct experience with modified alternators.
Dealer thought the problem was with air ride seat install. They didn't come up with a fix. talked to their head mechanic yesterday about the grounding issue. He said he had not heard of that but could be possible. He will have a answer on Monday. Thanks all!
whitetiger
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Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
Page 8, Step 4 of the 90 amp alternator installation instructions; see pdf
"[IMPORTANT]
Be sure to clean off mating faces between
bracket, engine case, and alternator to ensure
proper grounding."
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Seems like the wiring would include a ground wire.
If there is good point to connect a wire (and keep it out of moving parts I would do a ground wire instead of parts that are prone to rust.
I guess you could use one of the attachment bolts with a large hole terminal and wire to ground or battery negative.
A bit OCD but you will probably never have a problem with that type of ground path.
If there is good point to connect a wire (and keep it out of moving parts I would do a ground wire instead of parts that are prone to rust.
I guess you could use one of the attachment bolts with a large hole terminal and wire to ground or battery negative.
A bit OCD but you will probably never have a problem with that type of ground path.
possible to do that, and I have in the past on vehicles, but it is, frankly, unnecessary so long as the mounting surfaces are clean. It is self-grounding. Also, worth mentioning, depending on the maximum amperage rating of the alternator, it's possible that you'd need one BIG cable just to ground it; in my case, a 200A (max) alternator needed a 2ga ground. I used 0ga for safety's sake. That's a big ol' cable, which in turn gets stiff, hard to deal with, and creates all sorts of other issues (packaging, etc). A self-grounding system when applicable, safe, and acceptable, will do the same job with a LOT less headache and a lot less expense to the manufacturer--in a lot of ways.
downside (in automotive) is that even though it's self-grounded to the engine block, whatever it's grounded to also needs to be grounded properly to the body or chassis meaning more wiring. I found this out the hard way. On "most" tractors (excluding BX's) it's a non-issue since everything is grounded to each other. I did an LS tractor once that every dealer locally couldn't figure out why it wouldn't crank over. In 5 minutes I had it running. Bad ground. So simple yet so hard to find. Many don't know how to do a voltage drop test; which is how I found it.
Head mechanic at dealer is reading all this info. Thank You to all of you with the help on the possible grounding issue. I will let you know what happens.
Loosened all alternator attach bolts, moved alternator back & forth numerous times to wear off paint, set fan belt tension & tightened all bolts. Master Warning lamp does not come on now after ignition is On. Oil Pressure lamp & Battery lamp only ( park brake off ). Appears that alternator grounding problem is fixed. Thank You!!!