Woods RB60 Blade Repair

[JakeMate]

I found a guy selling a Woods RB60 rear blade. He acquired it from a guy who didn't know what he was doing with it and hit a rock while in a high gear and snapped the blade in two. He says it just needs to be welded back together. He supposed to send me pics shortly.

My question is on the blade material and the repair. I can weld but I'm wondering what the material and hardness of the blade is?

Thanks.

 

[wv bc owner]

Sounds like the blade is made from hard steel. I have bent the crap out of a rear blade but have never broke one in half. You will have to plate the back side or it could break again.

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[North Idaho Wolfman]

I would bet that either the cutting edge is broke, (just replace it), or the whole blade is broken from the frame.

 

[JakeMate]

I found a replacement blade for ~$85 + shipping so if I get the scraper, I'll probably just buy a replacement blade for that cost.

Thanks guys.

 

[bmblank]

Yeah, I'm with NIW. The blade would be hardened, but they wouldn't harden the rest of it, so it would more likely just bend, like wv bc owner says.

 

[ShaunRH]

Too hard breaks, soft bends or tears.

I wouldn't weld the blade at all. You'd have a heckuva time balancing it and you could never trust it not to break at or near the weld and have it launch the shorter side of the blade with the rest going completely out of balance. No good coming from that at all.

Now, if you want to cut and grind it down for small lawn mower or edger blades, go for it... (You'll just need the right tools to deal with the level of hardness the blade has)

 

[bcp]

Too hard breaks, soft bends or tears.

I wouldn't weld the blade at all. You'd have a heckuva time balancing it and you could never trust it not to break at or near the weld and have it launch the shorter side of the blade with the rest going completely out of balance. No good coming from that at all.

Now, if you want to cut and grind it down for small lawn mower or edger blades, go for it... (You'll just need the right tools to deal with the level of hardness the blade has)

I wouldn't hesitate to weld it. They don't spin very fast. I can get mine up to only about 4 RPM.



Bruce

 

[wv bc owner]

I got a 5' rear blade for my bx 2200 mainly for snow removal and to move some gravel on my driveway. Winter before last I caught a tree root on the edge of my drive at speed(snow rolling good) I didn't bend the blade I bent my lower lift arm almost went off the tractor backwards. The blade you are looking at can be fixed easy but I think the steel is hard might break again right beside your repair.

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[North Idaho Wolfman]

I wouldn't hesitate to weld it. They don't spin very fast. I can get mine up to only about 4 RPM.

Sorry Shaun, but that way too funny and truly priceless!

We need a quote of the day note on the forum!

 

[Tooljunkie]

I was with shaun, then i saw picture. Yup, there are people lurking in the shadows waiting for oppurtunities like that. Made my morning.

I had one that was pretzled, stuffed it in the press and pushed it around til it was useable. Cutting edge bolts broke, replaced cutter and beefed up backside and it held up fine.

 

[D2Cat]

Many moons ago I bought a fairly new 7' blade to use on my B6100 (2 wheel drive). I used it a few time just like I bought it, but was really too long. So I had a neighbor cut one foot off each end. He put the pieces in his "bone pile".

Several years later he moved on, and the place was left in abandoned.

I went back to the "bone pile" (about 10 years later), found the two pieces and welded them back on for my B8200's use. Never had any problems with the welded on iron.

If you were operating a Cat. 2 or 3 piece of equipment you might very well hook a blade and have problems, but not Cat. 1.

If you have problems with a cutting edge, go to your local county main. dept and buy a scrap grader blade. Burn holes to match your factory edge and bolt it on. You'll have more weight, more strength and it will outlast you tractor. (Also works excellent for snow plow edges)