questions about standard L series

[virginiavenom]

thinking about going cheap as I need a tractor and don't want to be stuck with a 600+$ payment for the next several years either.

looking at the standard L series, the 2501 is a lot easier to swallow price wise. my questions are that I don't see a topNtilt Option or a 3rd function option on Kubota's website.
is this due to not having enough flow from the hydraulic pump?

would that pump even run a post hole digger 9" auger on a 3rd function?

is this tractor underpowered for it's weight, or will it still have plenty of grunt?

will it have the power if it has the top N tilt to dig ditches with a box blade, or drag a 6' box blade?

would it be worth the extra to jump to a 3301-3901?

I'm still struggling making my decisions.

box blade work, ditch digging, maybe a pto tiller, FEL work, and post hole digging will be the majority of the work. maybe light brush hogging every once in a while.

a 400$ payment is a lot easier to swallow vs the 660$ a month grand L.

one dealer I'm talking to has a rental tractor that has about 140 hours on it. it's a MX 4700. they are offering at 25k with LA844 loader (the smaller of the 2 it will run) and a semi beat up square back bucket. it has R4s, which I don't want at all. but I think I might be able to work that into the deal for R1s. so that is an option. basically it's a new standard L or MX 4700. I'm foregoing the cab for the time being. I'm thinking the MX will be a tougher, harder working machine, even over the L4701....

if you can't tell I'm horrible at decision making. sanity check isle one please.

 

[mickeyd]

When I bought my L3200, now L3301, along with a couple of implements and the payment was still under $400.

 

[Burt]

thinking about going cheap as I need a tractor and don't want to be stuck with a 600+$ payment for the next several years either.

looking at the standard L series, the 2501 is a lot easier to swallow price wise. my questions are that I don't see a topNtilt Option or a 3rd function option on Kubota's website.
is this due to not having enough flow from the hydraulic pump?

would that pump even run a post hole digger 9" auger on a 3rd function?

is this tractor underpowered for it's weight, or will it still have plenty of grunt?

will it have the power if it has the top N tilt to dig ditches with a box blade, or drag a 6' box blade?

would it be worth the extra to jump to a 3301-3901?

I'm still struggling making my decisions.

box blade work, ditch digging, maybe a pto tiller, FEL work, and post hole digging will be the majority of the work. maybe light brush hogging every once in a while.

a 400$ payment is a lot easier to swallow vs the 660$ a month grand L.

one dealer I'm talking to has a rental tractor that has about 140 hours on it. it's a MX 4700. they are offering at 25k with LA844 loader (the smaller of the 2 it will run) and a semi beat up square back bucket. it has R4s, which I don't want at all. but I think I might be able to work that into the deal for R1s. so that is an option. basically it's a new standard L or MX 4700. I'm foregoing the cab for the time being. I'm thinking the MX will be a tougher, harder working machine, even over the L4701....

if you can't tell I'm horrible at decision making. sanity check isle one please.

VV,

You might want to update your request. Let OTT know what size your property is, what you need to do now and then in the future. Do you have hills, lots of trees, what? Driveway maintenance, improvement, ditch digging or cleaning? Consider both maintenance and improvements. Let OTT know.

Answers can then be more specific for you rather than just price.

The old rule that was given to me when we went very rural is buy bigger than you think you'll need.

Burt

 

[virginiavenom]

VV,

You might want to update your request. Let OTT know what size your property is, what you need to do now and then in the future. Do you have hills, lots of trees, what? Driveway maintenance, improvement, ditch digging or cleaning? Consider both maintenance and improvements. Let OTT know.

Answers can then be more specific for you rather than just price.

The old rule that was given to me when we went very rural is buy bigger than you think you'll need.

Burt

currently 10 acres. my current driveway is about 1000 feet of gravel drive, it presently has no ditches on either side of it. almost totally flat currently, with our present monsoon we are receiving, low spots are obvious, and in need of drainage. possibly digging stock tank out over time. presently has a few deep ditches with a steep cut, will be taking the edge off to make it where I can mow the bank with the zero turn. it's close, but just too steep. dirt work for old barn. putting around 6000 feet of fence line in that is all steel construction with concrete footers. moving trailers and equipment. every once in a while moving a bale of hay (not huge or tight)
lifting work with some chains. removing rocks and debris from my field with the bucket. would probably put ripper teeth on the bucket if I can't get them with it. might fab myself. might be on mower duty when I sell my current place, but not a need right now. would prefer to stay with 6 foot attachments.


will be buying in the next year a new place up in oklahoma. probably somewhere between 20 and 60 acres. semi hilly, but not bad. lots of trees, and tree removal will be done at a new property almost gauranteed. some construction work. usually ditch work is just one aspect. landscape rake will probably be a must once I get to that point. but again it will be doing a long gravel (possibly just dirt if doing new construction) driveways/parking area.

I have post hole dug in the past with a pto driven on a friends big tractor. hated every second of it. no down pressure to speak of, very little control over the auger angling/wobbling, breaking shafts, gear boxes, or getting it stuck in the hole and having to back it out manually with the nose of the tractor off the ground......will never have one again, topNtilt or not. I'd rather have the hydraulically driven FEL one. so the GPM flow rate is of concern. I don't know if they make them that will work well below say 8 GPM if at all. at most I might need to dig a 16-18 inch hole. typically 9 inch.

it will be doing a significant amount of materials moving, I figure a set of pallet forks will pretty much be a requirement, just like the topNtilt.

in my mind a topNtilt, boxblade, hydraulic post hole digger and pallet forks are must haves and not negotiable as well as 3rd function and at least 2 remotes. need the ability to possibly add a back hoe later. small tree removal is another thing I will be using it for. as well as old fence line removal.

when I get to the new place and get some things under control there I will be beginning a home garden. so a tiller and a garden bedder will be on the list of to-gets.

it is quite possible I will have a lot of trees.... meaning a lot of removal and grounds maintenance that probably won't have been done in a while, if ever.

 

[ShaunRH]

I bought my L3200 with 60" rotary cutter, box-blade and FEL and it all came in under $360 a month. You can usually get a package that has that plus a trailer to go under it for around $399 just about everywhere. $600 a month is a serious size tractor.

BTW, I'm on 6 acres and the L3200 is happy as a clam. Takes a full day to mow it but I only do that once or twice a year.

 

[Burt]

currently 10 acres. my current driveway is about 1000 feet of gravel drive, it presently has no ditches on either side of it. almost totally flat currently, with our present monsoon we are receiving, low spots are obvious, and in need of drainage. possibly digging stock tank out over time. presently has a few deep ditches with a steep cut, will be taking the edge off to make it where I can mow the bank with the zero turn. it's close, but just too steep. dirt work for old barn. putting around 6000 feet of fence line in that is all steel construction with concrete footers. moving trailers and equipment. every once in a while moving a bale of hay (not huge or tight)
lifting work with some chains. removing rocks and debris from my field with the bucket. would probably put ripper teeth on the bucket if I can't get them with it. might fab myself. might be on mower duty when I sell my current place, but not a need right now. would prefer to stay with 6 foot attachments.


will be buying in the next year a new place up in oklahoma. probably somewhere between 20 and 60 acres. semi hilly, but not bad. lots of trees, and tree removal will be done at a new property almost gauranteed. some construction work. usually ditch work is just one aspect. landscape rake will probably be a must once I get to that point. but again it will be doing a long gravel (possibly just dirt if doing new construction) driveways/parking area.

I have post hole dug in the past with a pto driven on a friends big tractor. hated every second of it. no down pressure to speak of, very little control over the auger angling/wobbling, breaking shafts, gear boxes, or getting it stuck in the hole and having to back it out manually with the nose of the tractor off the ground......will never have one again, topNtilt or not. I'd rather have the hydraulically driven FEL one. so the GPM flow rate is of concern. I don't know if they make them that will work well below say 8 GPM if at all. at most I might need to dig a 16-18 inch hole. typically 9 inch.

it will be doing a significant amount of materials moving, I figure a set of pallet forks will pretty much be a requirement, just like the topNtilt.

in my mind a topNtilt, boxblade, hydraulic post hole digger and pallet forks are must haves and not negotiable as well as 3rd function and at least 2 remotes. need the ability to possibly add a back hoe later. small tree removal is another thing I will be using it for. as well as old fence line removal.

when I get to the new place and get some things under control there I will be beginning a home garden. so a tiller and a garden bedder will be on the list of to-gets.

it is quite possible I will have a lot of trees.... meaning a lot of removal and grounds maintenance that probably won't have been done in a while, if ever.

vv,

Go as big as you can. With the future plans for that much more acreage in your move, L3200 is about as small as you likely could use. Lots of folks in that range have the L3800, L3400, or step up to the next newer series. L3900 series or even GrandL

The box blade will be your best friend on that driveway. Ours is 300 ft. long and has ditches on both sides which are maintained perfectly by the box blade. Another roadway about 400 feet also gets it, so it's about the same as your 1000 footer.

Good luck in your search.

Burt

 

[virginiavenom]

vv,

Go as big as you can. With the future plans for that much more acreage in your move, L3200 is about as small as you likely could use. Lots of folks in that range have the L3800, L3400, or step up to the next newer series. L3900 series or even GrandL

The box blade will be your best friend on that driveway. Ours is 300 ft. long and has ditches on both sides which are maintained perfectly by the box blade. Another roadway about 400 feet also gets it, so it's about the same as your 1000 footer.

Good luck in your search.

Burt

roger that. I'm getting pretty close to a decision. the quotes I have for exactly the same setup across three models are as follows.

L3901 35,398.44
L4701 38,320.00
MX4700 37,110.30

the options for each one is as follows
Loader (largest available for that tractor) with quick attach
square back bucket (not HD) <---should I spring another 400 for the HD?
2 rear remotes both dual acting
3rd function
pallet forks
topNtilt
skid steer quick attach post hole digger with 9" auger
box blade with ripper teeth (6 foot)
deluxe canopy with lights
standard Ls get tire spacers for stability
insurance
tire ballast (rim guard)


knowing the above.....these are my significant factors I know of right now.
---3301 is 950 lbs lighter than the MX. 4701 is 442 lbs lighter than the MX. not including ballast or FEL weight differences.
win for MX on weight and traction.

---hydraulic capabilities are 3901 6.3 GPM. 4701 7.8 GPM. MX 9.5 GPM. clear win for the MX. (thinking more about future implements as well as PHD.)

---FEL lift of MX is 700lbs more than 4701 and 1300 more than the 3901.
win for MX.

---3 point lift MX and 4701 is 2300 lbs the 3901 is at 1400 lbs. 900 lbs difference.

---MX4700---no DPF....no regen. big plus here.

---MX will handle bigger implements due to the extra weight easier I believe than the L will. so when I do upgrade to a nice cab tractor, I don't have to re-buy a bunch of implements.

---MX is wider by about 14 inches vs 3901 and 6 inches vs 4701. it's about 18 inches longer than the 3901 and 6-7 inches longer than the 4701.
win for MX on stability.

---higher FEL lift height on MX by more than a foot. minor, but notable.

---3 point on MX is cat 1/2 vs only cat 1 on standard L.


I think all the above being said that the MX is worth springing a little more for.

the only thing I'll say is they are charging me for absolutely everything. they are not throwing anything in. even being charged for the rimguard. even the lights and canopy, which I figured they might just throw in....at least the lights.

dealing with zimmerer kubota....so far my salesman is being responsive to all requests via email pretty quick. just surprised there seems to be no wiggle room to get any kind of freebies included. should I ask about including the first service fluids and filters free maybe?

what should they be willing to use as a bargaining chip?

 

[Chief81]

I bought a new l3800 about a month ago from zimmerer. What I found is that they are not very willing to negotiate on price. Being that I was limited on finding a new l3800 I was willing to do the deal. I did get them to throw in putting rimguard in the tires. They do seem to be a good dealer. If the supply wouldn't have been so limited on the tractor I was looking for, then I would have definitely shopped around and got the best deal.

 

[speedymph1000]

I bought My new L3901HST about a month ago and I got R4 tires, BH77 back hoe, ballasted rear tires, LA525 W/ QA 66" bucket, and picking up new pallet forks this week for it. I got My dealer to throw in the QA bucket for free, and filled the tires for free, I got My tire upgrade for half off, then coupled with the factory rebates on the tractor and attachment that was around 4k if I remember right. You really need to talk to Your dealer and work a better deal or go to another dealer and get a better quote. I went through 4 dealers before I found one willing to deal and I'll keep using them just for that fact. I live off of the rule that if You treat me right, I'll be loyal until You try to screw me.

 

[Chief81]

I bought My new L3901HST about a month ago and I got R4 tires, BH77 back hoe, ballasted rear tires, LA525 W/ QA 66" bucket, and picking up new pallet forks this week for it. I got My dealer to throw in the QA bucket for free, and filled the tires for free, I got My tire upgrade for half off, then coupled with the factory rebates on the tractor and attachment that was around 4k if I remember right. You really need to talk to Your dealer and work a better deal or go to another dealer and get a better quote. I went through 4 dealers before I found one willing to deal and I'll keep using them just for that fact. I live off of the rule that if You treat me right, I'll be loyal until You try to screw me.

Just curious on how much you paid for your l3901 and backhoe? Also, wondering about fuel consumption on your l3901? My l3800 seems to burn about a gallon an hour.

 

[Tallahassee Kubota Man]

Sounds like the MX is the most tractor for your dollar. If the size of it isn't a problem (getting in tight spaces) I'd get it.....just an opinion. Last year I went from an L series to an M series.......huge difference! I'm guessing an MX is somewhere in between.
Good luck with your purchase.

 

[Bulldog]

Having a small tractor is great and will handle a lot of jobs that seem above it's capability but at some point in time they just don't have enough ass for the task at hand. If you are limited to only one tractor you'll be money ahead to have a larger machine. Unless you have nothing else to do and want to stay on the tractor all the time a 30ish hp tractor is to small for a 20 - 60 acre place.
Don't get me wrong, I have a 32 hp tractor and spend more time on it than anything but when it comes to getting in the big fields it not the right machine. My $.02 anyway.