I'm resurrecting my criminally neglected 1977 L245. It is going relatively well, sheet metal was the worst of the deterioration. I changed all the fluids per the original owner's manual (less than 450 total hours.) In reading through the newer shop manual it states that early L series should have the 22 litres of #80 transmission oil replaced with the UDT transmission fluid. What might be the consequences of using the new #80 at least for a while? And are the advantages of the UDT fluid great enough to warrant the significant cost of changing it?
UDT Fluid change
- Thread starter Snark
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Where did you find 80 weight?
Brand?
I only ask because 80 Weight is pretty hard to find.
or did you use 80W90?
Brand?
I only ask because 80 Weight is pretty hard to find.
or did you use 80W90?
Generally the transmission and the hydraulic systems share the same bath. If you can find 80 weight oil it should work fine but the viscosity may be a bit high for your hydraulics - at least until it warms thoroughly. Viscosity of the UDT2 would be a selling point in its favor.
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
You dont have to pay top dollar for Kubota UDT. You can use any decent quality Universal Tractor Transmission Oil (UTTO) in that tractor. UTTO is an SAE 80 GL4 gear oil with a wet brake/clutch additive package and improved viscosity index for better cold weather pumpability. UTTO is available from your local tractor supply.
Dan
Are you planning to do sheet metal work on the tractor?
I'm asking because for the last year I've been resurrecting a "criminally neglected" L35.
I've remade parts and such and will be posting pics once I get it reassembled.
I'm also in NC and curious as to your plans.
I'm asking because for the last year I've been resurrecting a "criminally neglected" L35.
I've remade parts and such and will be posting pics once I get it reassembled.
I'm also in NC and curious as to your plans.
Thanks for the info. I certainly appreciate "new and improved", but only when it is truely compatible with "old and unimproved" quipment. Lubricants and fuels are the top of that list for me.
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
You will be much better off with a tractor transmission fluid engineered for common sump agricultural tractor use. Its cheaper and performs better. Dozens of brands to chose from.
Dan
I'm reinforceing (encapsulating) the fenders with epoxy resin and fiberglass. I don't have a mig welder nor a brake and english wheel. Much of the metal was so far gone that it would have been a duplication job rather than restoration. I've done auto refinishing decades before, but nothing that required this much fabrication. I will end with essentially fiberglass fenders, but that's okay. It's a working tractor, not a show piece.
I totally get it. Goodluck to you.
I decided to duplicate some of the metalwork and repair other parts so bondo and glass is my friend too.
It was great practice for powdercoating and painting and although extremely painful at times, I learned lot which was what my retirement was supposed to be.
The oil that is currently in it is a GL5, listed for tractors as well as limited slip/posi torque wet clutches. It's not Shell. Though I now live in farming country, it's 40 miles to a tractor store that carries a serious inventory. I'll run this for a few hours and switch over. Big Orange makes great equipment and they are proud of it, as their prices attest. I understand their penchant for advising to use their brand of lubes. But since this is hardly a warranty question, I'll go with what works.
Thanks again.
Did you find a powder coating powder that would match or just go with a generic black, grey or silver? I've been powder coating bullets for years and have been considering doing some fasteners and other small parts. I could also hot blue which might look pretty cool against the orange and blue/grey.
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Sure. Just remember GL5 is a hypoid gear oil. Agricultural tractors do not have hypoid final drives which is why from large to small they use a different type of lubricant. Kubota SUDT2 is Kubota's formulation of a UTTO and as such is a GL4 gear oil.
Dan
Thank you for that clarification. Since I've never been inside of a tractor gearbox I hadn't realized the difference. Hypoid drives have a different shear requirement for the lube. I guess I'll be changing it out sooner than later.
Bullets? Really? How cool - I'd like to see pics of those.
I wasn't worried about trying to match the Kubota colors exactly. I used Squirrel Grey Powder for front axle hubs, front grill and all linkages such as accelerator and brakes. That is a good enough match with Rustoleum Smoke Grey that I used on the front axle, frame, rops, etc.
I used black powder on seat mechanism and some engine area parts - pump shafts, mounts, piping, etc. I even used some chrome on springs just for fun!
As the project progressed, I began using zinc rich primer and hot flocked the grey - now that was an excellent thing to do!
As you know the prep work for powdering is the most critical. I clean and bake parts a long time before coating. I learned about failure not doing enough cleaning!
Your description of 40 miles to the nearest store makes me think you're on one of those gigantic farms on the Pamlico. I love riding motorcycle out there.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Sorry if I'm slow to the party and this has already been addressed:
But 80w90 is not right for that operation, too thick!
Mystic JT-5 is my go to for these situations.
But 80w90 is not right for that operation, too thick!
Mystic JT-5 is my go to for these situations.
Sorry for the delay, we've been traveling. Actually, not on the Pamlico, but not far from it. But not 40 miles from the nearest store, just a well supplied tractor store. My tractor has the old blue/grey. I have a new steering link. It is the same color as most of Battleship North Carolina. I've been using Krylon Ink Blue as an intermediate color for a base coat.
I just cast them and drop them into a bucket of clean water. When dry swish in MEK and coat. Easy.
The photo shows a pair of .40 S&W with red cast boolits, The grey upper middle are conventional wax lubed, the red ones under those are also .40 cal. The blue pistol rounds are 9mm. The rifle rounds are .308. The pc allows velocity close or equal to jacketed rounds. Search on "cast boolits" for all the info you can use.
