UDT Fluid change

[SonofOrange]

I'm resurrecting my criminally neglected 1977 L245. It is going relatively well, sheet metal was the worst of the deterioration. I changed all the fluids per the original owner's manual (less than 450 total hours.) In reading through the newer shop manual it states that early L series should have the 22 litres of #80 transmission oil replaced with the UDT transmission fluid. What might be the consequences of using the new #80 at least for a while? And are the advantages of the UDT fluid great enough to warrant the significant cost of changing it?

My dad retired from Kubota Tractor service, 25 plus years, he wore several hats. I inherited from him a 1977 L245 that he saved from the scrap yard. It's a few months older than I am. He always used Kubota fluids 100% of the time, no matter what. Even in non-Kubota units, he swore by it. When he brought this sad L245 home, we dropped the pans and changed all of the fluids. We actual found gravel in the FEL tank. He went back with UDT, in the transmission and hydraulics. SAE 30 in the engine After 2 hours of run time, we dropped the fluids again and went with UTD2 in the trans. Be sure to let her sit and let as much of the old stuff drop out.

Use the cheaper fluids to flush and then go back with the good stuff. Now days, she runs on SUDT with no problems. Probably 100 hours since then, no issues with the hydraulics. Some parts are getting scarce and the prices only go up. Change fluids ahead of the schedule with good fluids. Big dollars spent on down time isn't worth skimping on fluids.

 

[Snark]

My dad retired from Kubota Tractor service, 25 plus years, he wore several hats. I inherited from him a 1977 L245 that he saved from the scrap yard. It's a few months older than I am. He always used Kubota fluids 100% of the time, no matter what. Even in non-Kubota units, he swore by it. When he brought this sad L245 home, we dropped the pans and changed all of the fluids. We actual found gravel in the FEL tank. He went back with UDT, in the transmission and hydraulics. SAE 30 in the engine After 2 hours of run time, we dropped the fluids again and went with UTD2 in the trans. Be sure to let her sit and let as much of the old stuff drop out.

Use the cheaper fluids to flush and then go back with the good stuff. Now days, she runs on SUDT with no problems. Probably 100 hours since then, no issues with the hydraulics. Some parts are getting scarce and the prices only go up. Change fluids ahead of the schedule with good fluids. Big dollars spent on down time isn't worth skimping on fluids.

Thanks for your update. I agree, a few dollars spent on quality lubricants will save many times their costs in repairs. I suspect that today's Rotella is quite superior to lubes designed in 1977. With less than 450 hours now, I suspect that someone will someday get a very nice antique L245. I hope to get this one into the field before winter; like most projects of this nature, I'm getting deeper into it than I had hoped to have to. Nothing horribly drastic, just electrical connections and connectors are flakey, more fiberglass to do under the dashboard - just unanticipated stuff that needs to be done. I've done this before with cars and trucks. At least this little tractor is relatively easy to get to stuff.

 

[SonofOrange]

Thanks for your update. I agree, a few dollars spent on quality lubricants will save many times their costs in repairs. I suspect that today's Rotella is quite superior to lubes designed in 1977. With less than 450 hours now, I suspect that someone will someday get a very nice antique L245. I hope to get this one into the field before winter; like most projects of this nature, I'm getting deeper into it than I had hoped to have to. Nothing horribly drastic, just electrical connections and connectors are flakey, more fiberglass to do under the dashboard - just unanticipated stuff that needs to be done. I've done this before with cars and trucks. At least this little tractor is relatively easy to get to stuff.

"At least this little tractor is relatively easy to get to stuff." Apparently you have not had a reason to remove the from axle or work on the front engine internals..
Sounds like a fun project. Let me know if I can help with anything.

 

[Snark]

"At least this little tractor is relatively easy to get to stuff." Apparently you have not had a reason to remove the from axle or work on the front engine internals..
Sounds like a fun project. Let me know if I can help with anything.

Right now it's up on jacks, both axles and king pins have been removed, repacked and reinstalled. Went completely through the injector pump and top end. Injectors were fine (amazingly!) New steering center link is sitting under the front end, going to repaint the wheels before remounting. I have a few steep places on my property, so I'll stretch out the front end upon reassembly, and widen the rear to match. I haven't split the front section, if that is what you meant. At this point I don't have any reason to. The biggest damage besides the electrical connections has been to the sheet metal. Marine epoxy and fiberglass cloth and tape seems to be doing a good job. I have neither the tools nor skills to manufacture new metal fenders and hood so epoxy is my friend. Compared to the horror stories I've been reading about getting into the newer tractors, my desire to own one is decreasing every week. I'd love to have a FEL and BH...but my neighbor has several and is always looking for an excuse to use them. The auto and truck manufacturers took all the fun out of working on their products, seems that the tractor makers have followed suit. I realize that much of that was forced upon them by the EPA, but that doesn't make it any easier for us owners.

 

[SonofOrange]

Right now it's up on jacks, both axles and king pins have been removed, repacked and reinstalled. Went completely through the injector pump and top end. Injectors were fine (amazingly!) New steering center link is sitting under the front end, going to repaint the wheels before remounting. I have a few steep places on my property, so I'll stretch out the front end upon reassembly, and widen the rear to match. I haven't split the front section, if that is what you meant. At this point I don't have any reason to. The biggest damage besides the electrical connections has been to the sheet metal. Marine epoxy and fiberglass cloth and tape seems to be doing a good job. I have neither the tools nor skills to manufacture new metal fenders and hood so epoxy is my friend. Compared to the horror stories I've been reading about getting into the newer tractors, my desire to own one is decreasing every week. I'd love to have a FEL and BH...but my neighbor has several and is always looking for an excuse to use them. The auto and truck manufacturers took all the fun out of working on their products, seems that the tractor makers have followed suit. I realize that much of that was forced upon them by the EPA, but that doesn't make it any easier for us owners.

Yeah, spitting the front to access the engine takes some nimble fingers. But you are right about how easy it is to work on these tractors. I love that there isn't much electronic. If it's right and tight and has oil, it's going to run. Power steering would be nice. I have the kit for it, someday I'll add it.