The one problem I can't fix- broken head on diverter valve

patina

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Kubota B8200HST
Jan 24, 2021
15
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In many ways I've gotten lucky with my Kubota B8200.. it has a lot of good options, I've scored good deals on neat attachments, and it hasn't actually broken down on me, these machines work great! However it goes SQUEEEEEEEK when I turn the wheel, because the diverter valve is caught half open, half closed. Someone must have taken an impact hammer to it, because the head and shaft, right down to the pin are gone. I've tried penetrating, hammering sockets onto it, even clamping a die tool onto it, seems stuck. Do I remove the whole control valve and rebuild when I put on my 2020 blade?

In advance thank you
20200502_074948.jpg
this is really the one thing I can't seem to fix :|
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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I'm confused, have you tried to remove the nut that hold the valve in?
 
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patina

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I'm confused, have you tried to remove the nut that hold the valve in?
yes definately, this is just the only picture I had that showed detail of what is there.. renove nut, apply penetrating, seems stuck but I only know what I've seen in expanded diagrams so I'm thinking it must be siezed. Assuming if I removed the whole assembly I could repair the valve but it sure would be nice to make it budge.
 

GreensvilleJay

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You might try a 50-50 mix of acetone/ATF,dribble and wait,repeat,repeat,repeat. then try tightening the nut. yeah sounds wrong but if it moves just a weeeee bit in, that's great. more 50-50, then try to loosen/tighten/50-50 again and again, be sure to blow away ALL the 'crud' in the area,often.
I'm thinking the rust has plugged up the threads, and it has to be 'broken' and removed. You MUST blow the crud away OFTEN, otherwise it stays in the threads and gets TIGHTER,then $$$$ things happen.
 
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je1279

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I'd clean it up then hit it with PB Blaster a few times over a couple days and then see if it will budge then. Can you get a pipe wrench on it where it is?
 
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patina

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Jan 24, 2021
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I'd clean it up then hit it with PB Blaster a few times over a couple days and then see if it will budge then. Can you get a pipe wrench on it where it is?
I did see the mix of acetone and ATF in another thread, have always used PB blaster, and this particular area has been put on rotation with the stuff. Had a decent set of locking pliers on it. Always try tightening as well, movement counts here. Will keep working on it, thanks for all the input!
 
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GreensvilleJay

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someone did an great test on 'lubes' and 50-50 won hands down, worked better and was cheaper than ANY commercial 'lube'.
ANY movement usually signale is WILL come out....
it took me 2 weeks to unstick a tractor engine after sitting 25+years..still running today. one of those 'tortise wins' deals.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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This might be a case where heat is required to break it loose.

To do that you MUST remove it and remove the relief valve assembly or you will damage it.
 
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patina

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Jan 24, 2021
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This might be a case where heat is required to break it loose.

To do that you MUST remove it and remove the relief valve assembly or you will damage it.
Thanks Wolfman, I am going to try soaking it, warming it up and then soaking again. What are we looking at when that comes off? Full fluid change? Will I have access to the back or side of this valve to get it unstuck?

Harbor Freight has an 8" pipe wrench I'll try to get on it. IF it budges, the tractor's going into the woods for the rest of the winter to put in a field in. If I dont have luck it will be in the shop for a partial overhaul. Thanks again everyone will try it tomorrow!
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Taking the valve off the tractor will not give you any more access to any other part of that valve.

One other fix, put a nut that fits just over the pin and mig or tig weld the pin to the nut.
Doing this there is still the option to weld a larger nut onto the stripped base nut to get a better grip to remove it, and the heat will help loosen it up too.
 

je1279

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Looks like your back to no problems that you can't fix!
 

je1279

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That's the stuck part, nut was off before! Soaking then we'll try a pipe wrench
Gotcha. If it still doesn't budge with the pipe wrench, you can slide a short section of pipe over the end of the wrench for some additional leverage. Good luck!
 
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Toyboy

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Good way to snap off whats left of the shaft. I wouldn't go gorilla on it.
 

je1279

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Good way to snap off whats left of the shaft. I wouldn't go gorilla on it.
Agreed, a 4' pipe wood be a bad idea but a 1' pipe may give it some extra incentive to break loose.
 

GreensvilleJay

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Ok, blow all the krap outta the 'well-hole'. Fill with 50-50. Goto bed,next day, refill well-hole with more 50-50. Repeat for a week. Now try a short, quick, tight/loosen just a weee bit. fill with more 50-50,gotobed, try again next day. Now, assuming 'everything' in the hole is supposed to move, get a GOOD sharp chisel and try to whack it a bit to turn it
 
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Fordtech86

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Russell King

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In post #11, what are the two holes at 3:00 and 7:00 there for? Anyone have any idea? Kind of looks like roll pin is driven into each hole.

I think you have the proper hole to fill with PB Blaster or whatever and walk away (assuming that the picture is from above)
 
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patina

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Kubota B8200HST
Jan 24, 2021
15
7
3
CT
Agreed, a 4' pipe wood be a bad idea but a 1' pipe may give it some extra incentive to break loose.
I don't believe I could get that much bite to apply that much torque..shaft is relatively small and I've been able to chew it up a little with just a big T handle.

Soaking overnight, then I might run the machine for a bit and get it warm, soak again and get into it. Probably some firm tapping and maybe a wiggle we'll have to see!