Sidehill Slope and L2501

[Thorny]

I'm thinking of seeking some mowing jobs with my L2501, but the area where I live is fairly hilly, and I don't want to promise what I can't deliver. So looking for advice on how steep of a hill I can side hill on an L2501 with R4's and a bush hog? Has anyone actually measured a slope angle?

I'm not interested in widening the stance on the tractor due to space limitations on my property.

 

[85Hokie]

I'm thinking of seeking some mowing jobs with my L2501, but the area where I live is fairly hilly, and I don't want to promise what I can't deliver. So looking for advice on how steep of a hill I can side hill on an L2501 with R4's and a bush hog? Has anyone actually measured a slope angle?

I'm not interested in widening the stance on the tractor due to space limitations on my property.

Measuring the angle is the easy part! Riding on it is hard!

Take a tape measure and a 4' level, place level in the hill side, measure straight down from the end that is level outwards of the hill, and then take the measurement and divide by 4,

i.e.

bubble is level and you measure 28" off the ground to underside of 4' er.

that will be a 7/12 slope = approx 30 degrees

here is a quick table

http://roofgenius.com/roof-pitch-degrees.asp

hope you have ROPS and seat belt!

 

[D2Cat]

Be extremely cautious when mowing unfamiliar surfaces. You can easily nosedive into a hole you never anticipated, or run over something causing your tractor to pivot. On a slope these challenges become greater!

 

[Daren Todd]

Usually when I mow a hill for the first time, I walk the area. Actually, I do it on level ground as well. Both areas, I look for rocks, holes, and stuff that could damage a tire.

Some areas, I walk each and every time before hitting it with the tractor. Grass gets high, and then add trees into the mix on a steep slope. I walk in and around the trees looking for widow makers, and downed limbs.

Being in the mountains, I'm sure your also gonna encounter large rocks covered by grass and shrubs as well. One thing I used to do when mowing fields in the mountains of vermont. I would leave the FEL on the tractor. Run it curled back and about a foot off the ground.

The sudden stop when the fel contacted a large rock reminded me where that rock was

I tend to avoid side slope mowing. I usually go up and down a hill. Especially if it's steep. Mild grades I'll consider mowing any direction, but I go by how the tractor feels. And that's after mowing up and down the slope first, so I know there aren't any hidden rocks that I could potentially contact with an up hill tire

 

[WFM]

I've had my tractor 3 1/2 years and have some steep hills I bush hog. One hill I mowed this past summer for the first time as I always used a brush cutter and did it manually. But straight down over , looped around and again straight down over , low gear. I don't mow any hills side slope. I'm chicken and alive to say it. I know several folks that have been crushed and killed by their tractors.
So for me. Straight and slow down hill. The rest of the field 'M' gear and cruse.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Side hill mowing not a good idea. Check owners manual for safe operation angles and keep in mind everything changes when you add an implement.
My iphone has an angle meter app that i use from time to time.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Can it be done, yes, is it consistently done safely, no, not at all!

No degree meter will work acurately and safely as there is way too many factors involved!

Best advise: Never side slope mow with a high wheel tractor!
Your center of gravity is too high to safely operate the tractor sideways on slopes.
Would you be better off with it wider and with lower turf tires, of course!

Also is the tractor 4wd? If so keep it in 4wd all the time when working slopes as loss of traction and braking will send you on a wild ride even going down a hill strait!
Now if it's a 2wd, well let's just say you would be safe to have an anchor to throw overboard when you start slipping down the hill!

 

[lugbolt]

I was fishing on a well known river last summer and was motoring up river, slowly, as it was maybe a foot deep. Anyway I get over by a set of houses and seen a guy out mowing on a BX2370. Mowing sideways across the hillside/river bank. I thought to myself, man this guys' got some 'nads to mow THAT, and the way he was doing it. Went on about my business. Couple hours later I'm drifting back across the same area and I see a tractor sitting in the river. Poor guy. He was standing there at his deck I guess waiting for a recovery truck to get there. You could tell he was disgusted. Funny thing, though, I caught a few fish around his tractor.

Don't put the almighty dollar in front of your safety....

 

[NEPA Guy]

First thing comes to mind is If you're mowing in the CO mountains you will most likely encounter alot of stones jutting out. Id be concerned about hitting one and throwing you off balance. Then you're done for. You should ballast the rears if you havent already and I would entertain getting the Kubota OEM spacers. They're only 1 5/8's of an inch if memory serves me correct. Not a big jump but keeps the axle in engineered specs and you can gain some added stability. Maybe you can fit that within your space limitations?

I would try to see if you could just go up and down the hill and like everyone else says don't go side ways. I've been successful traversing my hilly lawn sideways and up and down some steep grades, but my lawn is fairly even and I have a BH and FEL attached, so theres alot of ballast. I would consider ballasting the front if you could. I have a zero turn I use for my mowing (so much faster) and I ballasted the front at the recommendation of the dealer to help me climb without tipping backwards.

I have an angle gauge I used to measure slopes, I'll take some readings once it gets light out to give you some rough ideas about what I've been able to do. (if I can find the darn thing)

Best yet, don't take jobs that are too risky.

You get you're epic pass yet? I moved from CO just over a year ago, I do miss the skiing.

Update: Approx 23 Degrees up and down, 13 degrees sideways

 

[L.C. Gray]

Slopes I've mowed for many years on my IH574 with a 7' hog are now terrifying on my L3400 with a 72" finish mower. Same slope, same angle, same direction had the L so light on the uphill tire that it's spinning. I'd like to see how much difference it makes to drop the loader and/or have the tires foamed. I had originally planned on selling the 574 when I bought the new machine, but I'm finding enough jobs that the L just isn't up to doing that I'm keeping the 574.

I know I'm just asking too much of the L3400, but it has been disappointing what little it can really handle safely.

 

[Thorny]

First thing comes to mind is If you're mowing in the CO mountains you will most likely encounter alot of stones jutting out. Id be concerned about hitting one and throwing you off balance. Then you're done for. You should ballast the rears if you havent already and I would entertain getting the Kubota OEM spacers. They're only 1 5/8's of an inch if memory serves me correct. Not a big jump but keeps the axle in engineered specs and you can gain some added stability. Maybe you can fit that within your space limitations?

I would try to see if you could just go up and down the hill and like everyone else says don't go side ways. I've been successful traversing my hilly lawn sideways and up and down some steep grades, but my lawn is fairly even and I have a BH and FEL attached, so theres alot of ballast. I would consider ballasting the front if you could. I have a zero turn I use for my mowing (so much faster) and I ballasted the front at the recommendation of the dealer to help me climb without tipping backwards.

I have an angle gauge I used to measure slopes, I'll take some readings once it gets light out to give you some rough ideas about what I've been able to do. (if I can find the darn thing)

Best yet, don't take jobs that are too risky.

You get you're epic pass yet? I moved from CO just over a year ago, I do miss the skiing.

Update: Approx 23 Degrees up and down, 13 degrees sideways

Thanks for the measurements. Since everyones seat of the pants gauge is different it helps to have a measurable number.


I'm in total agreement with you all that straight up and down slopes is preferable, but where I live there are lots of scrub oak bushes and sometimes they dictate the direction of travel.

 

[Harry Ferguson]

My L3400 is the same size tractor with a few more horses. Stability issues should be pretty much the same. First I'll say that this tractor is much safer and more capable on the same slopes than was the A-C model B I used previously and my tires are not fluid filled. But the critical thing is the small diameter front tires. Small wheels can drop into small holes, causing a sudden change of balance. Running over big rocks can tip the tractor. Also beware of wet grass or other slippery surfaces; a sudden side slip followed by suddenly finding traction can tip you right on over. When on a side slope, always consider how much more you could safely tip and don't operate near the limit. Avoiding side slopes is good advice, but sometimes we do what we must. Be careful and listen to the warnings of your puckering but**ole.

 

[Lennyzx11]

I mow a 30 degree slope sideways. Thin and not wide enough to do vertically.
Here's what I've learned as I improved the experience this first year.
Contrary to popular beliefs, I now remove the loader. That actually brings the center of gravity down and the tractor feels more stable. I did try with loader on, skimming the ground, loaded and unloaded with some weight.
Spaced the rears out to max setting. I have 3" spacers on the shelf but never installed them yet.
I always turn around at each end by turning UP on the hill and backing straight down.
I keep the rear mower on the ground and am very careful lifting it only when tractor is facing up and down slope and not side slope. I use a 4' finish mower and a 6 ft heavy flail mower. The flail seems more planted but picking it up changes the weight distribution considerably side slope if you must pick it up.
Creeping with the HST is only speed.
No wet grass.
Installed other grab bar on opposite fender to hang on to.
Course ROPS up. Seat belt should be on but I'm guilty of not wearing it. If you did dump it, the belt keeps you inside the space the ROPS is designed to protect.

That loader if on, should NEVER be pointed down hill. Brakes are on rear axle. Loader unweighs rear axle and then no brakes. Tires slide until you drop loader on ground.

A diagonal downhill facing position with something in the bucket is a recipe for disaster. The tractor can pivot over the side of that one front wheel starting a roll. Banging the bucket on the ground moves that weight to the lower side excaberating the situation even worse.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MadMax31]

My whole land is undulating and rutted up. Loading my rears was the single best thing for mowing sideways. Ive been meaning to calculate the steepest part that I mow. Tractor has never tipped, or acted squirelly but I do keep it in 4wd. Loader, mmm and tractor are ~2400 lbs. That makes me nervous of rolling on me. Ive been fooling with mowing more upward angle lately. Like a 45 degree up the slope, rather than straight across. Mowing up and down adds 20 minutes to the chore for whatever reason.