Rear Main Oil Seal leak - L2050DT

[LEBoyd]

I have an L2050DT with a rear main oil seal leak. After studying the tractor this weekend (it's a couple of hundred of miles away on my ranch), I'm hoping that maybe it's a two-piece seal.

If not, I'm guessing I'll have to remove the engine, as I think this would be much easier than removing the transmission and everything related to that.

It has a front-end loader on this that may make it more difficult.

Any suggestions or guideance?

Thanks,
Larry

 

[Michael]

Bad news, It is split time for the tractor, it has a one piece seal and you will need to split the tractor to get to it.

 

[LEBoyd]

I assume you mean that the engine has to come out.

Correct?

 

[Michael]

NOT CORRECT In order to replace the seal you will have to split the tractor engine from the transmission and rear end. You can not just pull the engine to replace the seal. The reason is the clutch package on the tractor is rigidly mounted to back of the engine with the input shaft of the transmission going into the pilot bearing on the flywheel. The only way to get the seal replaced is to separate the transmission from the engine, remove the clutch package including the pilot bearing and flywheel and then you will be able to pull the seal. There is no other way to do this. It is NOT like a car that you can pull the engine, it is totally different as most tractors do not have a frame because the engine and the transmission are the frame. The engine and transmissions on tractors are beefed up massively to handle the torque loading that no car or pickup can handle.

Since the tractor has to be split this the best time to also replace the clutch package and have the flywheel resurfaced. I have worked on tractors and vehicles for the last 35 years and I grab a tractor repair faster then ever taking a truck or car repair as they are so MUCH simpler to work on IF you have the proper tools to do the job and I do.

IF you do not have the tools take the tractor to a quaified shop to do the repair as it will overwhelm the average shade tree mechanic.

 

[LEBoyd]

Thanks, Michael. I spoke to my local service guy and he explained it to me, as you did. I've done a lot of engine/trans swaps and rebuilds in trucks/cars - but never worked (or owned) a tractor. So, I was quite surprised to hear there's no frame! It's not a concept with which I was aquainted!

Other than possibly the larger size impact sockets, I probably have the tools to do the job. I also now have the parts manual for the tractor and loader, which helps with the breakdown of the parts.

My service guy said he expected it would take him about 12 hours - which I expect means about 20 for me. I expect putting the large parts back together would be the most difficult (getting all the bolt holes aligned).

The clutch package recommendation was one of the questions I had, and I appreciate the suggestion.

Would a "shop manual" (97897-10200) be helpful? Does it provide the step-by-step directions (like for vehicles with frames )?

Thanks again for your help.

 

[eserv]

The problem is not the possible wrenches or sockets you might need it's supporting the tractor properly to roll the front end (or rear end) away to gain access to the flywheel area. Most auto mechanics have none of thetools to do this. ( a cement block and a bottle jack won't suffice!! I'm not saying you couldn't do it but if you couldn't tell by looking at your tractor that it lacked a "frame" then I have serious doubts!
Ed

 

[LEBoyd]

Well, it may end up that it goes to the dealer. When I inquired into the supporting of the front and rear after separation, the service guy said they simply use floor jacks. Since I have 2 6-ton floor jacks and 2 3-ton floor jacks, he thought I might have enough.

My service guy thought it wouldn't be too difficult for me to be able to do the job, especially after we discussed the supporting of the front and back.

Back to the other question - is the "shop manual" like a standard shop/reference manual?

 

[eserv]

I've done lots of clutch jobs on much bigger tractors than Kubota makes using two 6 ton floor jacks, you should be alright. I think the manual will give you all the information you need also. lining up the clutch disc might be a challenge but again, I've "eyeballed" dozens of them and have never had an problems, probably you wont either!
Ed Service

 

[LEBoyd]

Thanks again for the advice and suggestions.

Even though this is a "little' tractor, it's the frontend loader that scares me the most. I'll have to study that things, the book and the lines.

I do appreciate the insight from years of experience.

 

[Michael]

Do you have a chain hoist in your garage? I do and the first thing I do when I split a tractor is get the front end loader removed. I simply attach the hoist to the loader arms and swing it forward out of the way. I have also used a vehicle engine lift for the same thing and then used blocks to set the arms on.

From there I get out the service manual (I do recommend that you buy the manual) and the Kubota manuals tell you how to take it apart but not how to put it together. The way you put it together is very logical, reverse the way you took it apart so you just start at the back of the manual where you stopped and and go forward. Kubota does put the torque specifications on the page where you have to torque something, if it is not stated you use the specs from the front of the book. One other thing that I have used a lot of is the parts manual for KUbota as they have pictogram that pretty well show how something is put together.

So using the service and parts manual you can do the job but be very careful and take your time and you can do it. Just remember the principle that there is no frame and you should be fine.

 

[LEBoyd]

I've wondered about that frontend loader at great deal. I have a 1,500 lb winch lift, which I assumed would be large enough. I'm not sure I fully understand, but are you saying *after* you split the tractor you remove the loader or *before*?

The tractor is 200 mi away and I've only sat on it two or three times. I did tear down the front of the engine to solve on overheating problem (replaced the water pump, thermostat, hoses, belt and flushed out the engine and radiator).

I obviously haven't studied it but will before I start splitting it. I'll order the shop manual today, and I already have the parts manual for both the tractor and the loader.

Because of my limited space around the winch, is it possible to support the front (with the loader still attached), split the tractor, move the rear away to do the work and then put them back together *without* removing the loader? I obviously have to disconned all the linkages and hoses from the rear to the front, but if I don't plan on moving the front can the loader stay attached?

Thanks for all the advice,
Larry

 

[Michael]

I have the idea that the loader will have to come off due to the loader frame Probably will be attached to the under side of the transmission. If that is the case you will have to break down the loader into smaller parts. In that I would remove the bucket, then the nose piece, then the arms, the uprights and finally the support frame from under the transmission. You likely will have to take the loader apart anyway to get it off the tractor.

After you have the tractor split and you put everything back together on the tractor you simply reattach everything on the loader. ONE piece of information on reassembly of the loader is to leave ALL of the bolts loose until you have all the parts of the loader back on the tractor. The reason is sometimes the parts do not align the same as before and you WILL need the wiggle room to get everything to realign.

 

[ipz2222]

On my L235, the fel comes off as one unit. It has support arms that you let down, take all the bolts off and just back the tractor away from it.