Ok I;m sure this might be a silly question and maybe not a good idea either, But Im thinking if I use the rear blade a bud dropped off when I have the snow/dirt blade on it would give me a little more traction for pushing snow, as the BX is not a very heavy critter to begin with. And I was even thinking of useing the rear blade to drag snow off one side as i pushed off the other..like I said maybe not a good idea. NOW the question is this, I have fooled with this blade and have never really figured out how to set it to work right with out either digging every thing up or not digging any thing at all but to run fairly true but not rip every thing up ( driveway gravle ect),, So what do ya thing both blades or fagetaboutit?
Rear blade
- Thread starter skeets
- Start date
Im tryin to picture in my head what your trying to acomplish and I just cant figure it out. Are you trying to use two scraper blades at the same time??
Hey skeets I think the shorter the top link is the less the rear blade will dig in. Eric I think he has a front blade on his tractor and wants to use the rear blade at the same time. And hey hi guys. Dusty
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Kubota_Man
Member
Equipment
BX24, Rear blade, Front blade, Snowblower, 54" MMM, Box scraper, Landscape rake
Depending on what brand it is, you can get skid shoes for your rear blade. I use my rear blade all the time for snow moveing. What are you using to push the snow with?
i think that you will find, if you follow Dusty's advice on adjusting the top link and wait until the ground is frozen solid, you won't be digging too much dirt up.
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Thanks Dusty my man,,, What I was trying to say was,, if I angle the front blade to push snow say to the left, and the rear blade angles to the right would that either add or detract from clearing snow,, yeah Im lazy and just trying to think of some way i dont have to make so many passed
Seems to me you'd want both front and rear blades angled to the same direction for optimal clearing. I cant see both the front and rear blades being the same width, like a 5 foot on the front and a 5 foot on the rear.
If you are using the same size blades front and back, I am not sure it is going to gain you any thing in the number of passes you make because both blades will be clearing the same path. If you angle your blades too much they will push the front and rear of the tractor off to one side. You will have to experiment with it. I like the idea of two blades,even if it doesn't gain in the number of passes you make. There are times when it is much easier to push than to pull and times when it is easier to pull than to push. Plus the blades add counter weight as you said. If the back blade is up and the front blade is down then you get more traction and vice - versa you get better steering. Just rambling!!! Hope it helps a bit. dusty
dustyif you are angling to push front one way and rear t'other AND you have enough width to engage snow on both, then it is going to want to turn you sideways as the force against the chasis is going to opposite of course. seems counterproductive to me. having them both on board and using one at a time will work well. You might find your most efficient use is going to push with the front in forward and push with the rear blade while in reverse assuming the rear blade pivot to allow it.
Please don't get offended at this, but I think that you are over analyzing this. Wait until it snows, and then try it out. If you get tons of snow, it may not work at all. If you don't get a lot, then it may be the ticket. You won't really know until it snows...
But, if nothing else, the blade on the rear will give you weight for traction, and you can push going both ways. But, you will also have to drive more carefully- you will have protrusions on both ends.
But, if nothing else, the blade on the rear will give you weight for traction, and you can push going both ways. But, you will also have to drive more carefully- you will have protrusions on both ends.
Hodge my friend its kind of tuff to offend me. But with everything thats been said here I guess like you said,, wait and try it,, I have got to get that light bar finished so I can get more light,, hey ya never know when ya might get the chance to play inthe snow at night
Skeets, I'll pass this along to you from my almost bad experience last winter. I was going down a slight hill that sloped a little to one side. I dropped my box scrape to drag the snow off. As soon as the blade hit the road I was going toward the ditch at a much faster speed then I wanted to go and had no control. Long story short, it was much safer and easier with the box raised using it for weight.
One more thing, having teeth on the bucket are great in the dirt but really suck in the snow.
One more thing, having teeth on the bucket are great in the dirt but really suck in the snow.
How many passes does a guy have to make?
I'm all for new ideas and strategies, venture on!
That being said, I think you'll spend more time dicking around and it would be quicker using your usual method.
How about adding 2 feet to your current blade?
I'm all for new ideas and strategies, venture on!
That being said, I think you'll spend more time dicking around and it would be quicker using your usual method.
How about adding 2 feet to your current blade?
Just try it. Only you can make the best setup for you.
I personally have my rear blade installed backwards, as Vic reccomends. This is still very effective, and does not cut into my gravel driveway as much. I use the loader, but only when I have to stack very high, or lots of snow. I have my toplink adjusted so that the rear blade points slightly up when raised. I can push the deep snow in reverse and stack it up to about 3-4 ft in one pass.
I would suggest for your situation, to use the rear blade pointing backwards, and angled in the same direction as the front blade. You can then have your front shoes set much higher, and use the rear blade to cleanup, and if there is a situation where it is easier to backup than to push.
Even If you cant use both at the same time, it still would be setup for a very versitile setup.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRD4UBwovgQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuv8bpmdCTY&feature=related
I personally have my rear blade installed backwards, as Vic reccomends. This is still very effective, and does not cut into my gravel driveway as much. I use the loader, but only when I have to stack very high, or lots of snow. I have my toplink adjusted so that the rear blade points slightly up when raised. I can push the deep snow in reverse and stack it up to about 3-4 ft in one pass.
I would suggest for your situation, to use the rear blade pointing backwards, and angled in the same direction as the front blade. You can then have your front shoes set much higher, and use the rear blade to cleanup, and if there is a situation where it is easier to backup than to push.
Even If you cant use both at the same time, it still would be setup for a very versitile setup.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRD4UBwovgQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuv8bpmdCTY&feature=related
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It looks like having the blade turned to the rear would be great. Make a pass with the loader and the another going backwards. Making 2 passes in one will be a lot less time in the cold.
Lots of good advice. I grew up doing landscaping and snow removal with tractors and the best use of any tool has to be adapted to the conditions and location your working under. I don't think I ever plowed 2 snows that did not need adaption of technique. And believe me I've learned all the things you don't want to ever do again dad could get pretty upset when he had to pull me out of a snow pile. A rear blade is a very good tool for many techniques. You just need to find what works best for you.
back blading is good for pushing up piles(be careful doing that so you don't get high centered with more snow behind the blade thn you can drive out of). pulling straight ahead the blade loads up and spill out each side(so I don't have to go back and clean up two spillage piles). The Blade can get a lot closer to objects and pull away from garage doors. Some times you will want to drag out the snow, back over it and push with the front blade.
I prefer to angle slightly so the spillage only rolls off one side, that also allows a longer pull before your pulling more than traction allows.
A good place to start is to go the the articles section and watch the very good video tutorial,on blading.
back blading is good for pushing up piles(be careful doing that so you don't get high centered with more snow behind the blade thn you can drive out of). pulling straight ahead the blade loads up and spill out each side(so I don't have to go back and clean up two spillage piles). The Blade can get a lot closer to objects and pull away from garage doors. Some times you will want to drag out the snow, back over it and push with the front blade.
I prefer to angle slightly so the spillage only rolls off one side, that also allows a longer pull before your pulling more than traction allows.
A good place to start is to go the the articles section and watch the very good video tutorial,on blading.
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