Hey guys, what should the working operating temp of the coolant be and what should the oil pressure be on my B6000, I'm installing gauges. Just wondering, my service manual does not say.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Operating Temp and Oil Pressure.
- Thread starter jay87t
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North Idaho Wolfman
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There really isn't going to be an exact range of what it should be, measurements will vary greatly upon where you are reading them on the tractor.
85Hokie
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Jay,
I think you will find that the water temps coming out of the block are going to be somewhere around 200 F - 210 F.
Not sure if the B6000 is pumped or not (therosyphin) but I have read that most cars/trucks and race cars like the temps to be about 210 - seems to be hot enough to boil off moisture, yet cool enough not to hurt engine.
I just installed a gauge on my B7100HST - in the upper radiator hose coming right from the block - it reads 205-210 even under a heavy load.
your oil gauge ought to read something close to 60 psi (cold) and then fall somewhat when good and hot - I would say anything around 15-20 at a hot idle would be good. Even hot and at working RPM's it should stay above 40.
yours will vary - slop in the bearings and other worn parts will show up as the oil gets hot - PSI will fall off. I have seen tractors (from 50's) run forever with a hot PSI at 5 while at idle.....as long as it goes up with RPMS - you ought to be fine.
Jay,
I think you will find that the water temps coming out of the block are going to be somewhere around 200 F - 210 F.
Not sure if the B6000 is pumped or not (therosyphin) but I have read that most cars/trucks and race cars like the temps to be about 210 - seems to be hot enough to boil off moisture, yet cool enough not to hurt engine.
I just installed a gauge on my B7100HST - in the upper radiator hose coming right from the block - it reads 205-210 even under a heavy load.
your oil gauge ought to read something close to 60 psi (cold) and then fall somewhat when good and hot - I would say anything around 15-20 at a hot idle would be good. Even hot and at working RPM's it should stay above 40.
yours will vary - slop in the bearings and other worn parts will show up as the oil gets hot - PSI will fall off. I have seen tractors (from 50's) run forever with a hot PSI at 5 while at idle.....as long as it goes up with RPMS - you ought to be fine.
Thanks for taking the time to reply 85HOkie, I am installing the water temp sensor on the upper rad hose, picked up one of them inline hose couplings for the sensor. I'm more concerned about my oil pressure, I think I have low oil pressure because my oil pressure light comes on shortly after the tractor is hot and idling low. I may also be thinking if that's the case I can have missing cam plugs causing low pressure as well.
85Hokie
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Jay,
MAKE sure you run the GROUND wire from that coupling......without it - it works , but it doesnt work right .........dont ask how I know it doesnt work right without it !
MAKE sure you run the GROUND wire from that coupling......without it - it works , but it doesnt work right
.........dont ask how I know it doesnt work right without it !
Good point.Jay,
MAKE sure you run the GROUND wire from that coupling......without it - it works , but it doesnt work right
That is if you are using an electronic temp guage. Mechanical/capillary type dont need.
Wow thanks for the tip. I was wondering what the threaded hole was for beside the temp sensor holeJay,
MAKE sure you run the GROUND wire from that coupling......without it - it works , but it doesnt work right
Oh Hokie, what hose did you slice into the top or bottom rad hose.
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85Hokie
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Tooljunkie is exactly right - electrical units will need the ground - and also as he said - top hose too - where the heat will be. I thought about placing one at the bottom too - but that thought was short lived......hell you cares how cold it is, I want to know if it is getting too hot !
I bought another top hose from Messicks- I didnt like how the factory hose was going to work, the factory hose is a long sweep of an arc, where the replacement is more of a 90 degree.
On the B7100 there is not a lot of error room where to cut the hose- I have about 1/4 from neck to neck on the bottom and the turn comes into the top of the adapter slightly - but no leaks and it works well.
I will send you some pictures tomorrow!!
85Hokie
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Jay,
here is the picture I promised you :
the grounding screw is right below the other wire. Both wires run back via the wiremold. The gauge was easy to mount also - and I decided on the right side over the left - since most of use get on the left side first - much like a horse or a FEL with long joystick getting in the way.
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Great thanks for the pics thats the exact sensor housing I bought. I will install it like you.
Mine is a L275. I just got don doing 4+hrs of HARD hogging, L1 and L2 in 4X4 with governor constantly kicking in. 85 - 87 F out. Oil psi started out at 70 cold. Stayed at 45psi after it got hot. Coolant temp 175 - 180f.