Oil pan repair?

Abe

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L2250, 60"MMM, 6' Rear Blade, 6' Front mount Blade, 2 Furrow Plow, 7' Lift Boom,
Just knocked a hole into my L2250 oil pan. New pan price in South Western Ontario is $482.00. Anyone here ever repair the pan, assuming I might not be the first one to ever damage one? Magnet won't stick to it, so assuming it's made out of aluminum. Will be removing it from the tractor after supper tonight and take it to my local welder tomorrow to see if he can fix it.
How does one knock a hole in an oil pan you might ask? Well, I was dragging ash trees out of the bush across a field that had been cultivated last fall after the corn was harvested. Was just heading back for my last tree and came to the edge of the field by the wood lot. I Went just a tad to fast through a rut , just enough to make the counter weights I had hanging off the front of the tractor to bounce, tumble underneath the tractor, and make enough contact with the oil pan to puncture a hole:eek::(.
Will try to figure out how to post picture after I get it off.
 

RCW

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Guessing the removal might be a sticky gasket?
For a possible replacement pan, look up Lance....”007kubotaguy” here on OTT. Send him a private message.
He has a bunch of older L parts.
He’s south of your border, but I think he’s savvy for trade with north of the border.


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Last edited:

19thSF

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I would think that a patch could be TIG welded onto the pan. Weld it inside and out, and you should be OK. It your shop runs TIG, they should be able to take care of this. If not, another shop will.
 

Brick Axelrod

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A good welder can probably patch it for 50 bucks if it is just a hole. Most likley the gasket sealer they used it keeping you from pulling it off. Gently ease it off with a pry bar .........EASY...........
 

Abe

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Equipment
L2250, 60"MMM, 6' Rear Blade, 6' Front mount Blade, 2 Furrow Plow, 7' Lift Boom,
I gave up for tonight. I tried tapping a pry bar with a hammer between the pan and engine block with no success. It's held on there really well. Will give a try again in the morning. If all else fails, will see if my welding service can repair it in place, not sure if that would be wise though?
 

Oil pan 4

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L185 turbo
Sep 21, 2017
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I have used a mig welder with 0.025 L-56 wire and CO2 to repair and modify oil pans. With tig I think I would just burn through.
Sounds like someone put that pan on with "the right stuff" RTV that stuff is tough you will probably bend the pan getting it off.
 

Pau7220

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L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
Aug 1, 2017
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Scranton, PA
If all else fails, will see if my welding service can repair it in place, not sure if that would be wise though?
That would be nearly impossible. Too much contamination from the oil inside. Also dangerous once the flames get going inside the engine.

That being said, aluminum is very repairable with gas, mig, or tig. All require sterile preparation with stainless brush or carbide burr. I'm a rookie at aluminum welding with my spool gun, and I've done quite a few oil pans with great success. A little effort when the welding is done to clean it up and you'll have a hard time even finding the weld.
 

Abe

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L2250, 60"MMM, 6' Rear Blade, 6' Front mount Blade, 2 Furrow Plow, 7' Lift Boom,
I have used a mig welder with 0.025 L-56 wire and CO2 to repair and modify oil pans. With tig I think I would just burn through.
Sounds like someone put that pan on with "the right stuff" RTV that stuff is tough you will probably bend the pan getting it off.
Just trying to get the pry bar started, I think I dented the corner a bit already.
 

Pau7220

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L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
Aug 1, 2017
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I have used a mig welder with 0.025 L-56 wire and CO2 to repair and modify oil pans.
There are basically two gases that are suitable for aluminum welding. Pure argon will give excellent results on all aluminum welding wether it be mig or tig. An argon/Helium mix (the most common being 25% helium is ideal for tig or mig welding aluminum over 1/4")
 

Pau7220

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L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
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Just trying to get the pry bar started, I think I dented the corner a bit already.
Just double check to make sure you have all the bolts out. I'd then try tapping a sharpened putty knife (the kind that the blade goes all the way through the wooden handle) between the block and pan. I usually bump them loose with a dead hit hammer first.
 

GeoHorn

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Pau beat me to it.... Using flat-blade putty knife, slide it between the pan and block or tap it with a mallet to seperate the two. Be aware that there may be a stud or locating-pin occasionally if you run into a stubborn location. But cutting that loose with a putty knife is the answer.
 

whitetiger

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Count the bolts that you have removed, should be 20 of them.
 

Oil pan 4

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L185 turbo
Sep 21, 2017
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There are basically two gases that are suitable for aluminum welding. Pure argon will give excellent results on all aluminum welding wether it be mig or tig. An argon/Helium mix (the most common being 25% helium is ideal for tig or mig welding aluminum over 1/4")
It's aluminum?
Well that will definitely help them sell more new ones.
Yeah I weld aluminum too. Miller 250, high frequency arc stabilizer, water cooled torch, tungsten up to 5/32''. I only run argon, helium is too expensive.
 

SidecarFlip

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It's aluminum?
Well that will definitely help them sell more new ones.
Yeah I weld aluminum too. Miller 250, high frequency arc stabilizer, water cooled torch, tungsten up to 5/32''. I only run argon, helium is too expensive.
I'm an Invertig person myself. +1 on Argon in owned bottles too.
 

JeffL

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Did not witness myself but, had a guy tell me about an attempt a shop made to weld on his oil pan still in car. Said it exploded and blew both valve covers (V8) off and gave the oil pan a new shape. had to pull the engine after all to install the new oil pan.
 

whitetiger

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It's aluminum?
Well that will definitely help them sell more new ones.

Yeah I weld aluminum too. Miller 250, high frequency arc stabilizer, water cooled torch, tungsten up to 5/32''. I only run argon, helium is too expensive.
Why do you think that?
 

GreensvilleJay

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I use 'dollar store' putty knives as separators all the time. I grind a sharp edge on 2 of them, then 'work' them along the seam, slowly. that way you do not bend the pan.

Once you get the pan welded up, consider making a 'skid plate' for protection cause we all KNOW there will be a 'next time'....:(