New tractor, need implement

Mike_B

New member

Equipment
B2320 w/MMM & FEL, & a bunch of Stihl power equipment. Lincoln SA250 for repairs
Oct 27, 2012
82
0
0
the Dusty South
What would be the best first implement to buy. I need a scraper blade for managing run off, I need a rake for general use, could really use a soil compacting roller with a the scraper blade. I've got a long driveway to keep up & the property is on a long drawn out hill so washing is a big problem. I've got several fields to maintain & 2 yards, belly mower is doing great so far. The rake could be used for general clean up along with the fel over larger areas to minimize the work. I'm perplexed & don't want to spend money on something that may not get used sooner rather than later. Later I may plant a 5 to 8 acre garden, so implements more suited to planting aren't needed now.
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
 

Eric McCarthy

New member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota B6100E
Dec 21, 2009
5,223
7
0
43
Richmond Va
Every tractor needs a box blade or grading box and it sounds like you could benefit from a rake as well. If there's other toy's you need here and there along the way that you wont be using often perhaps renting them might be your best option as well.
 

Kytim

New member

Equipment
B6000DT, B7100DT,Snowplow, RM360, Scoop, Cultivator, Carryall,Disk, plow
Aug 14, 2009
848
12
0
Western Ky
Hello and Welcome!!!

A rear blade is what a majority of folks purchase first and rightly so as it's very useful and generally priced right. As always when asking these types of questions you will get a wide variety of responses. If I was going to purchase my first implement again knowing what I know now, since you already have a mower, I'd skip the regular blade and move on to the box blade. I rarely ever use my regular blade anymore instead moving straight to the box blade. Now that rare condition that I would use my regular blade is if I've got another experienced user for my other tractor and we are running both on a bigger project.

Don't forget we like your participation and lots of pictures!!

Glad your here!
 

Kytim

New member

Equipment
B6000DT, B7100DT,Snowplow, RM360, Scoop, Cultivator, Carryall,Disk, plow
Aug 14, 2009
848
12
0
Western Ky
Eric has a point there. I bought a new rake 3 yrs ago. I used it 3-4 times, 3 yrs ago. been sitting in a family members barn since. So...
 

hodge

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
John Deere 790 John Deere 310 backhoe Bobcat 743
Nov 19, 2010
2,903
450
83
Love, VA
Telescoping stabilizers. If you are going to change your implements much, you will get tired of the turnbuckles.
 

MagKarl

New member

Equipment
L245DT
Aug 2, 2010
663
0
0
Olympia, WA
I would also vote for a box blade. Very versitile tool and is my default attachment. I only take it off to use something else, then put it back on.
 

Hook

Member

Equipment
L3240 with LA514 FEL, Box Blade, Howard Rotovator, All Purpose Plow, Sub Soiler
Jul 6, 2010
212
6
18
Jackson, Georgia
hodge
Re: New tractor, need implement
Telescoping stabilizers. If you are going to change your implements much, you will get tired of the turnbuckles.

I agree. Then a box blade.
 

Hook

Member

Equipment
L3240 with LA514 FEL, Box Blade, Howard Rotovator, All Purpose Plow, Sub Soiler
Jul 6, 2010
212
6
18
Jackson, Georgia
hodge
Re: New tractor, need implement
Telescoping stabilizers. If you are going to change your implements much, you will get tired of the turnbuckles.
I agree. Then a box blade.
 

skeets

Well-known member

Equipment
BX 2360 /B2601
Oct 2, 2009
14,550
3,298
113
SW Pa
Yepper as others stated go for the box blade/scraper.. I have a rear blade and while it does work onthe drive way a box would be the cats azz! Were I to do it over would be the box blade first, unless you have some ditches to clean and maintain the rear blade works a better for that i think. And keep an eye out for a tiller, you may not need it now but if one comes up at the right price grab and growl.
Food plots work well when you can plant stuff,,, 5 or 6 acer garden,,,snicker:D,, we got a couple "GARDENS like that with stands on all 4 corners,,,lol
 

gpreuss

New member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3200DT w/FEL, K650 Backhoe, 5' Rotary, 40" Howard Rotavator, 6' Rhino blade
Oct 9, 2011
1,166
6
0
Spokane, WA
Eric has a point there. I bought a new rake 3 yrs ago. I used it 3-4 times, 3 yrs ago. been sitting in a family members barn since. So...
I also bought a rake years ago, to clear pine cones. It didn't do a really good job; they tend to roll under the rake. I ended up in 1st or 2nd, and couldn't ever call the job "good". Mine has been collecting dust & rust for 5-6 years now.
I've never used a box blade, but use my rear blade a lot, for dirt, gravel and snow.
 

bosshogg

New member

Equipment
2004 L3400F w/ FEL
Aug 16, 2012
231
0
0
Hartford, SD, USA
I am a rear blade guy. You can move material better side to side and can do everything and more what a box blade can do. I would watch Craigslist for awhile and see what pops up. Go heavy duty whenever possible.
 

Bulldog

Well-known member

Equipment
M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
Mar 30, 2010
5,440
78
48
Rocky Face, Georgia
I am a rear blade guy. You can move material better side to side and can do everything and more what a box blade can do. I would watch Craigslist for awhile and see what pops up. Go heavy duty whenever possible.
You must have never had a good box scrape. I don't think my blade will ever be hooked to my tractor ever again. Been in the shed for 14 or 15 yrs and I don't miss it a bit. My box on the other hand is on my tractor right now and I would be lost without it. Although every implement has it's place, if I had to keep just one it would be a box scrape.
 

Eric McCarthy

New member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota B6100E
Dec 21, 2009
5,223
7
0
43
Richmond Va
I hook up my blade on the back for when the snow falls and usualy only push snow with it. Other then that the grading box hangs off the back more often the not. I have a few seasonal toys.
 

Mike_B

New member

Equipment
B2320 w/MMM & FEL, & a bunch of Stihl power equipment. Lincoln SA250 for repairs
Oct 27, 2012
82
0
0
the Dusty South
I agree there is a right tool for every job, but I also have to learn what tool to use & when. Also how to make them work for me! Eric, I would've never thought of renting an implement; just wouldn't have crossed my mind. Working on a driveway this is running down hill, wouldn't a box blade take the drive down or loosen too much dirt & cause more washing? I will be moving some dirt this Friday to fill in ruts from washing & then float it with the fel. Right now I think this is the best thing I can do until I can start getting gravel hauled in. When I buy gravel what size stone is best for initially building a new bed? Would 57 stone be too big?
 

Eric McCarthy

New member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota B6100E
Dec 21, 2009
5,223
7
0
43
Richmond Va
57's is pretty much the standard size for driveway gravel. If it's a steep driveway maybe you'll want to go with 78's as a base then come in over top with 57's to lock it all in.
 

Bulldog

Well-known member

Equipment
M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
Mar 30, 2010
5,440
78
48
Rocky Face, Georgia
Mike B, I worked at a quarry for almost 20 yrs and maintained all the roads and the stockyard. If it was me I would put down crusher run or pugmix (base, GAB or whatever it's called where you are) and after that gets packed in go with the 57's over the top real thin. On my hills I always put a small hump at a angle to slow the runoff water and funnel it to the side of the road. My lower driveway at home is done this way and I haven't added any rock to it in 7 or 8 yrs. Just scrape it down with my box and keep my speed hump in shape. It pretty much takes care of itself.
 

Eric McCarthy

New member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota B6100E
Dec 21, 2009
5,223
7
0
43
Richmond Va
Humm..... I've always had luck with 57's as a base gravel then came back over top with 21A crusher run to lock in and hold the 57's in places. Mind you that was always on level ground to maybe a slight incline for a residental driveway. I see 21A working as a base course real well if its a known muddy soupy area you're going over.

Bulldog with your base of 21A and then 57's on top does the 57's stay put in place pretty well or does it wash away some in a rain?
 

Russell King

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
5,356
1,411
113
Austin, Texas
If you get a box blade make sure you get one with the ripper teeth. Some older ones were basiclly blades with wings, no ripper teeth. The one I have has removable wings but no ripper teeth so it may not be a real box blade - it just came as part of the "tractor deal"

There is also something called a lane plane or land leveler that may help make and maintain the drive. I have only seen video of them and have no idea how much tractor HP is required to pull one.

Good luck and have fun.
 

RD Gray

New member

Equipment
BX2200 LA211 Loader 5' rear blade Woods PHD ph35
Oct 31, 2012
42
1
0
Luray, Virginia
Every house I build if not paving or concrete driveway I only use crusher run. It packs well 57's don't pack and move around. The only bad thing about it the small stuff does drag into a garage or carport especially when wet.
 

Mike_B

New member

Equipment
B2320 w/MMM & FEL, & a bunch of Stihl power equipment. Lincoln SA250 for repairs
Oct 27, 2012
82
0
0
the Dusty South
It's pretty much nothing but sand around here! All the high wind the last few days has stripped every bit of the loose stuff off the top. I would rather just have a company come out & pave it. That would cost way too much! Plus I would cut myself outta play time, I mean working with my tractor...


Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2