New L3301 Owner with questions

Evad

Member

Equipment
L3301
Apr 2, 2022
49
20
8
Redmond, WA
I bought a used L3301 (2018 I think with 206 hours on it). I have never owned a tractor so trying to make sure I don't screw anything up LOL. I had the dealer change the engine oil out before I bought it and I verified the hydraulic filters were changed at 50hrs.

1) My tractor did not come with a manual. Do I need one? Or can I get all the info I need from here and Youtube? For example, I am greasing all joints every 10 hours based on a few YouTube videos I watched.
2) How often should I be checking Hydraulic and engine oil levels?
3) I usually keep the RPMs at 2,000 while operating the tractor, which is mostly grading and moving around gravel with the FEL. Is there an ideal RPM to use?
4) A few times I have set the emergency brake and got off the tractor only to have the engine die anyway. Then I have a bugger of a time trying to get it started again. It's like there is some safety lock that is holding it back because it wont turn over at all. Eventually I can get it started again and most of the time when I leave the tractor it stays running.
5) Any tips or tricks on eliminating potholes in a dirt road? Right now, I cut away at the them with the rippers on my Land Pride 72" Box Blade and then level everything out and top dress with gravel. Seems to be working ok, but its a long process. Having the top-n-tilt kit added to the back has been very helpful.
6) I clearly need a bucket level indicator LOL. Is this something I can install myself? can I buy aftermarket or does it need to be Kubota branded?
7) Also I have a clear a lot of brush in the woods for a property I am preparing to build on. I have seen these "tooth bars" as a way of improving brush clearing and digging. Is this just smoke and mirrors or do they really work? Any suggestions on which one to buy?

Thanks again for being here helping us newbies out. I am mostly searching the forum to try and find answers but had a few questions right off the bat so I hope you don't mind me asking.
 

dirtydeed

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
Dec 8, 2017
3,023
3,681
113
Wind Gap, PA
Congrats on your new ride.

I'd suggest getting the operators manual to answer questions 1-4. You can download a pdf copy for free from here:


Q.5. -You've got it and the right attachment for the job. You really have to dig out the pothole (sounds counter intuitive) and regrade. Just make sure that you have some crown in the road to pitch water off to one side, or both sides into a ditch if possible.

Q.6 - If you feel that you need one, you can order one form your dealer. Yes, some folks have fashioned their own. Depends on how handy you are. Or, forgo it and you will learn when your bucket is level by trial and error. That just comes with time.

Q.7 -Yes, they work very well and most on here would strongly recommend getting one. By it's nature, a tooth bar will definitely show you how much your bucket is out of level...in a hurry.

If you can describe the type of loader digging (or grubbing) work that you intend on doing, we may be able top point you in a certain direction on style of tooth bar. Maybe check out the BXpanded piranha tooth bar. There are fairly popular here for general use.


Keep your loader bucket low. Best of luck...and enjoy your seat time.
 
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MapleLeafFarmer

Well-known member

Equipment
Lots incl. B and L kubotas
Dec 2, 2019
637
495
63
E.
I bought a used L3301 (2018 I think with 206 hours on it). I have never owned a tractor so trying to make sure I don't screw anything up LOL. I had the dealer change the engine oil out before I bought it and I verified the hydraulic filters were changed at 50hrs.

1) My tractor did not come with a manual. Do I need one? Or can I get all the info I need from here and Youtube? For example, I am greasing all joints every 10 hours based on a few YouTube videos I watched.
2) How often should I be checking Hydraulic and engine oil levels?
3) I usually keep the RPMs at 2,000 while operating the tractor, which is mostly grading and moving around gravel with the FEL. Is there an ideal RPM to use?
4) A few times I have set the emergency brake and got off the tractor only to have the engine die anyway. Then I have a bugger of a time trying to get it started again. It's like there is some safety lock that is holding it back because it wont turn over at all. Eventually I can get it started again and most of the time when I leave the tractor it stays running.
5) Any tips or tricks on eliminating potholes in a dirt road? Right now, I cut away at the them with the rippers on my Land Pride 72" Box Blade and then level everything out and top dress with gravel. Seems to be working ok, but its a long process. Having the top-n-tilt kit added to the back has been very helpful.
6) I clearly need a bucket level indicator LOL. Is this something I can install myself? can I buy aftermarket or does it need to be Kubota branded?
7) Also I have a clear a lot of brush in the woods for a property I am preparing to build on. I have seen these "tooth bars" as a way of improving brush clearing and digging. Is this just smoke and mirrors or do they really work? Any suggestions on which one to buy?

Thanks again for being here helping us newbies out. I am mostly searching the forum to try and find answers but had a few questions right off the bat so I hope you don't mind me asking.
I also have a l3301
1. yes... both the work shop manual (WSM) and operators manual are free to download from internet.
2. I check mine every 3rd use or so BECAUSE i park it in the same spot all the time so I would see drips/leaks PLUS I have confidence by experiance over past few years in MY L3301 does not leak or use. Until your confidence improves that you use no fluds OR if you park in differnt places I would recommend every use. Also consider checking engine coolant very often by inspecting overflow bottle.
3. I would run your rpms higher at 2,200. My experience is it will cut regen's significantly PLUS when regen'ing if rpm's at 2,000 the gauges will often tell you to increase rpm's (to make more heat) before it will start the auto regen. At 2,000 if you are lightly using your machine you may never enter a regen cycle as engine exhaust not hot enough and as such cause the ecu to shut the machine down and call for a forced regen by the dealer as DPF plugs and never regen's as you never made enough heat.
4. is your pto engaged??... the pto lever at right hip is known to get out of adjustment so lever /pto should be off but safety switch still thinks otherwise. Make sure pto stopped spinning before exiting (or tilt seat quickly) if this is the case and/or give the yellow handle a push/giggle in right direction to make sure off.
5. experience. Also beware of back blading with the bucket when the curl cyl. are extended. Extended curl cyl. is a weak position and you risk breaking/bending them. Back blade when curl cyl retracted as much as possible to limit risk of breaking if working hard or you hit something firm.
6. experience will make the need go away. when operating look to your left rear bottom corner of the bucket, the welded corner parallel to ground has buckets leading edge also parallel.
7. tooth bars when digging, detrimental if pushing snow/grading etc... when smooth edge for finishing needed. Depends what you are doing whether it has any value.

enjoy... take it slow, steady, careful, and avoid twisting torques like using outside edge of bucket to pry stumps/concrete/etc... and all will be self evident with experience. Also it is not an off road vehicle so careful over stumps/branches etc as no under armour comes standard.
 
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Evad

Member

Equipment
L3301
Apr 2, 2022
49
20
8
Redmond, WA
Thank you everyone. This was really helpful! One last thing, are there any parts I should be buying now just to have? For example, should I be buying extra pins (I have no idea if those break or not).
 

jyoutz

Well-known member

Equipment
MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
Jan 14, 2019
2,998
2,042
113
Edgewood, New Mexico
Thank you everyone. This was really helpful! One last thing, are there any parts I should be buying now just to have? For example, should I be buying extra pins (I have no idea if those break or not).
I’ve never broken lynch pins or hairpin cotter pins, but I sure have misplaced a few. Buy some spares at TSC.
 
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PoTreeBoy

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L35 Ford 3930
Mar 24, 2020
2,820
1,535
113
WestTn/NoMs
Thank you everyone. This was really helpful! One last thing, are there any parts I should be buying now just to have? For example, should I be buying extra pins (I have no idea if those break or not).
Yeah, I've lost a bunch of those pins.

You may want to have extra filters, oil and UDT on hand.
 
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MapleLeafFarmer

Well-known member

Equipment
Lots incl. B and L kubotas
Dec 2, 2019
637
495
63
E.
also... check your front axle for fluid level..... new from factory my L3301 needed a little more than 2l of fluid added. Supposed to have 4 1/2l according to WSM so about half full. Its a common thing.

I fill hole and 1 overflow.... fill till it starts coming out of the overflow.
 

Evad

Member

Equipment
L3301
Apr 2, 2022
49
20
8
Redmond, WA
also... check your front axle for fluid level..... new from factory my L3301 needed a little more than 2l of fluid added. Supposed to have 4 1/2l according to WSM so about half full. Its a common thing.

I fill hole and 1 overflow.... fill till it starts coming out of the overflow.
Thank you! Is it safe for you to tell me what kind of fluid I need or is there a difference between model years for the L3301? I have heard you can use the Super UDT-2 hydraulic fluid but is that what they come with? I would think mixing oils would not be a great idea...
 

MapleLeafFarmer

Well-known member

Equipment
Lots incl. B and L kubotas
Dec 2, 2019
637
495
63
E.
Thank you! Is it safe for you to tell me what kind of fluid I need or is there a difference between model years for the L3301? I have heard you can use the Super UDT-2 hydraulic fluid but is that what they come with? I would think mixing oils would not be a great idea...
WSM says either S-UDT2 or 80w-90 gear oil.
Does not state what comes standard from factory and with no dip stick couldn't even guess as cann't see a sample.

I use Penzoil Platinum Synth 75w-90 as I get it in 5 gal pails from my local Oil Mart at great prices.

The Oil Mart "experts" (guys who service the oil patch HD equipment, large scale farmers and on road truckers no retail sales) say front axle on L3301 not very critical application. So what you use not really critical due to low speed and stresses BUT still very important to use good quality in right amounts and you can mix.

Never had a front gear failure yet on the little tractors so far (fingers crossed)

A number of years back I did have a little B series that had very low hours on it and it had a slow axle leak and Kubota dealer said swap the S-UDT with 80w-90 and leak should go away and it did.
 
Last edited:

jyoutz

Well-known member

Equipment
MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
Jan 14, 2019
2,998
2,042
113
Edgewood, New Mexico
WSM says either S-UDT2 or 80w-90 gear oil.
Does not state what comes standard from factory and with no dip stick couldn't even guess as cann't see a sample.

I use Penzoil Platinum Synth 75w-90 as I get it in 5 gal pails from my local Oil Mart at great prices.

The Oil Mart "experts" (guys who service the oil patch HD equipment, large scale farmers and on road truckers no retail sales) say front axle on L3301 not very critical application. So what you use not really critical due to low speed and stresses BUT still very important to use good quality in right amounts and you can mix.

Never had a front gear failure yet on the little tractors so far (fingers crossed)

A number of years back I did have a little B series that had very low hours on it and it had a slow axle leak and Kubota dealer said swap the S-UDT with 80w-90 and leak should go away and it did.
I talked with my dealer on this issue. He said they come from the factory with SUDT in the front axles. He said either the SUDT or gear oil are acceptable but don’t mix them. So use the SUDT for topping off and then when you drain you can refill with either.