MX5000SU Starting issues

[Joe P]

Intermittently won't start. Battery is 12.8 volts. Various Symptoms -
#1- Key to 1st position dash lights will not illuminate and solenoid will not click. Sometimes the dash lights will weakly flicker. No solenoid clicking when turned to the ignition position.
#2- Key to position 1st position dash lights illuminate but when turned to ignition they go out. In this case sometimes the solenoid will click once but will not start.

 

[Roadworthy]

Put a voltmeter on your battery. While watching it have somebody turn on the key and try the starter. If voltage drops to a ridiculously low level your battery is shot. Of course you may wish to charge and have it load tested. If voltage stays above twelve try cleaning terminals and cable connectors Inspect connectors for signs of corrosion. Reinstall and tighten securely. They should not move. follow ground wire to frame. Clean and tighten. This may not solve your problem but it's always a great starting point.

 

[loggin]

Intermittently won't start. Battery is 12.8 volts. Various Symptoms -
#1- Key to 1st position dash lights will not illuminate and solenoid will not click. Sometimes the dash lights will weakly flicker. No solenoid clicking when turned to the ignition position.
#2- Key to position 1st position dash lights illuminate but when turned to ignition they go out. In this case sometimes the solenoid will click once but will not start.

Also check all fuses and check voltage at fuel solenoid. Does the engine turn over but won't start or does the engine not turn over?

 

[Mark_BX25D]

Put a voltmeter on your battery.

Yes, on the terminals themselves. Not the clamps. If it passes that test, try it on the clamps. If it passes on the terminals but fails the on the clamps, your clamps are the problem.

Or just start by removing and cleaning the clamps and posts, reassemble, and try again.

 

[Joe P]

Thanks for the hints everyone. Problem solved. What didn’t make sense was that the battery is 4 months old and tested at 12.8 volts and my “smart” charger showed it to be at 100%. Put a jump box on and the dash lights would come on in accessory and the solenoid would start clicking on ignition. Returned to store and with 2 different battery testers voltage and load tested good but thankfully they replaced anyways. New battery solved the problem. I have seen this problem twice before. The internal connection between the battery plates and the post is not good. Battery will test good but under a real load falls on its face. Thanks to my wonderful wife who “encouraged” me to take the battery back to the store. Gotta love the practical and smart farm girls.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

Returned to store and with 2 different battery testers voltage and load tested good but thankfully they replaced anyways. New battery solved the problem. I have seen this problem twice before. The internal connection between the battery plates and the post is not good. Battery will test good but under a real load falls on its face.

Yep. In my experience, those auto parts store testers will give you a false good reading, but if it says it's bad, well, it's bad.

The "real load" is the difference.

Glad the real mechanic in the house stepped in and got you straightened out.

 

[loggin]

Thanks for the hints everyone. Problem solved. What didn’t make sense was that the battery is 4 months old and tested at 12.8 volts and my “smart” charger showed it to be at 100%. Put a jump box on and the dash lights would come on in accessory and the solenoid would start clicking on ignition. Returned to store and with 2 different battery testers voltage and load tested good but thankfully they replaced anyways. New battery solved the problem. I have seen this problem twice before. The internal connection between the battery plates and the post is not good. Battery will test good but under a real load falls on its face. Thanks to my wonderful wife who “encouraged” me to take the battery back to the store. Gotta love the practical and smart farm girls.

Thanks for letting us know!!

 

[RBsingl]

The best way to load test a battery is in actual service. Put your volt meter probes DIRECTLY on the battery posts, NOT the connector and see what the voltage is when it is trying to power the starter.