Land Pride LR16 gauge wheels price. WOW!

[Punishermark]

I purchased a Land Pride LR16 Landscape rake recently. Cost was $1050. I asked my dealer how much was the optional gauge wheels. He said you don't want them. I asked why? He said they are $533 !!!!! Half the cost of the rake!!!

Wish i could find a used pair somewhere.

 

[B737]

The 16 series gauge wheels are awesome. They have only gone up in price $200, just a few years ago they were $850, so not that big of a change in the grand scheme of things. Rake is useless without its wheels.

I think the hydraulic angle kit is another $350 or so.

Hands down my most used attachment.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

The 16 series gauge wheels are awesome. They have only gone up in price $200, just a few years ago they were $850, so not that big of a change in the grand scheme of things. Rake is useless without its wheels.

I think the hydraulic angle kit is another $350 or so.

Hands down my most used attachment.

I’ve been thinking about a landscape rake…it’s in my to procure list…I was thinking it would be helpful to rake leaves and grass after mowing so that I can compost it…I’ve never used one or even seen one used so I am interested in what is the reason did you think useless without wheels? I really would not have thought to add wheels…i though I wanted to set it on ground and drive to pile all the debris up. Any advice would be appreciated for a future purchase. Please advise.

 

[B737]

if you set it on turf its going to rip up your turf like a box blade. Gauge wheels are essential, esp if you only want to skim the surface. Otherwise, you are jockeying the 3 point lever, while the machine is undulating and it is a total joke.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

if you set it on turf its going to rip up your turf like a box blade. Gauge wheels are essential, esp if you only want to skim the surface. Otherwise, you are jockeying the 3 point lever, while the machine is undulating and it is a total joke.

In your opinion would it work for raking grass and leaves on trails? I am too lazy to use a manual rake to rake up my trails, but I’d like to eventually start composting the debris for the garden.

 

[B737]

I think it would, esp if you have adjustable top link you will be able to control the bite, or no bite. Pine needle rake may be something to look into, won't need wheels, and the tines are small so it won't tear everything up.

 

[Fordtech86]

In your opinion would it work for raking grass and leaves on trails? I am too lazy to use a manual rake to rake up my trails, but I’d like to eventually start composting the debris for the garden.

I agree with B737, it’s not what you want for raking grass and leaves. If it’s just on trails it may work for you. I use a sweeper pulled behind garden tractor for collecting grass and leaves for the garden.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

I agree with B737, it’s not what you want for raking grass and leaves. If it’s just on trails it may work for you. I used a sweeper pulled behind garden tractor for collecting grass and leaves for the garden.

It’s mainly trails…probably takes just over two hours with the MX to mow them…I’d like to sort of rake into windrows(I think) so I can scoop it up with the bucket, and then Transfer to a compost pile for the garden. I am not sure my idea will do what I am hoping, but I thought I could angle the rake and get a row that I could pick up let’s say 1/2 to 2/3 of the material easily with the bucket. If there is a better simple way please advise (I have no intention to rake by hand and I would feel guilty asking spousal unit to do it either…I do have some level of shame rarely observed) what or how would you collect leaves and grass for composting? I don’t care what it looks like it’s trails in and around my woods including a 300 yard shooting lane…not a lawn or a golf course.

 

[PaulL]

Are you particularly fussed on composting it, or do you just want it off the trails? I feel that raking then picking up with the FEL is likely to fail, or to be so fiddly as to be infuriating.

But if you just want the trails cleared, rather than particularly want to accumulate the debris and make compost, then perhaps a large blower would be a better investment? Just blow the trails clear, and done. I can see that being a much easier process.

Thinking further on that, perhaps it is a bit like my lawn mowing. I really dislike collecting clippings, so I mulch. I always say I'd rather mow twice mulching than mow once and have to run a bagger. And when you mulch you definitely have to mow more often. So perhaps the answer on your trails is to mow more frequently, rather than collect the debris? A trail mowed more often will look tidy even if you don't collect the debris, because it won't leave big clumps everywhere. At least, in my mind that's true, I don't actually have trails that I mow.

 

[bird dogger]

It’s mainly trails…probably takes just over two hours with the MX to mow them…I’d like to sort of rake into windrows(I think) so I can scoop it up with the bucket, and then Transfer to a compost pile for the garden. I am not sure my idea will do what I am hoping, but I thought I could angle the rake and get a row that I could pick up let’s say 1/2 to 2/3 of the material easily with the bucket. If there is a better simple way please advise (I have no intention to rake by hand and I would feel guilty asking spousal unit to do it either…I do have some level of shame rarely observed) what or how would you collect leaves and grass for composting? I don’t care what it looks like it’s trails in and around my woods including a 300 yard shooting lane…not a lawn or a golf course.

I have what's called (I think) an "Estate Rake". It has 6 spring tooth wheels that will windrow grass, leaves, small twigs to one side. Just like a miniature hay rake. It was routinely used for fall leaf cleanup by windrowing the leaves in long rows and then scooping them up into a trailer to be hauled away to the burn/compost pile. You could turn the windrows over a couple of times before they got too tall to pass between & under the main wheels. Was sure a lot easier than raking by hand and quicker than a lawn sweep (have one of them too.)

But for just clearing grass, leaves, twigs off the yard/trail and back into the woods....the 3 point PTO powered blower is the real machine to have.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Are you particularly fussed on composting it, or do you just want it off the trails? I feel that raking then picking up with the FEL is likely to fail, or to be so fiddly as to be infuriating.

But if you just want the trails cleared, rather than particularly want to accumulate the debris and make compost, then perhaps a large blower would be a better investment? Just blow the trails clear, and done. I can see that being a much easier process.

Thinking further on that, perhaps it is a bit like my lawn mowing. I really dislike collecting clippings, so I mulch. I always say I'd rather mow twice mulching than mow once and have to run a bagger. And when you mulch you definitely have to mow more often. So perhaps the answer on your trails is to mow more frequently, rather than collect the debris? A trail mowed more often will look tidy even if you don't collect the debris, because it won't leave big clumps everywhere. At least, in my mind that's true, I don't actually have trails that I mow.

It’s only to accumulate material for compost. I don’t care about material left in the trails or that it is not manicured. In terms of frequency the property is 4 hours from my residence I most likely can’t legitimately mow more than once or so a month. I am limited as to when I can travel.

 

[mikester]

Build your own gauge wheels! If you buy the parts new it will only be $300 plus your time to fabricate, paint and install.

 

[D2Cat]

I have a 6' and a 7' landscape rakes neither with gauge wheels. I don't use one to rake the front yard because lawn care if off limits to me. ( I maintain equipment for that use but NEVER ran a zero turn we purchased new 4 years ago! Lawn care is off limits.) I've got a set of wheels with the steel arms laying in the barn but haven't welded them on because I haven't found the need.

For using a rake with out wheels all one has to do is adjust the top link to do what needs to be done. Much like operating a bucket on a hoe. If you have the fingers out past perpendicular to the ground you rake without tearing things up. If you have the fingers rotated forward of the perpendicular axis you can scrape and cut similar to a box blade. It's all in the adjustment.

 

[B737]

For using a rake with out wheels all one has to do is adjust the top link to do what needs to be done.

this is a fools errand. ^^

 

[Punishermark]

My land is super rocky. That is why I bought the rake. It worked great getting up the rock and somewhat leveling the land at the same time. But I need to go over it again with out tearing up the soil. Just get more rock.

So wheels or no wheels? I don't want to pay half the cost of the rake itself though.

 

[PaulL]

It’s only to accumulate material for compost. I don’t care about material left in the trails or that it is not manicured. In terms of frequency the property is 4 hours from my residence I most likely can’t legitimately mow more than once or so a month. I am limited as to when I can travel.

OK, so the use isn't so much to keep the trails clear, as to collect the material so you can compost.

I guess then the next question is whether that's your most efficient way to accumulate material for compost. Will you have a lot of windfall branches, or trees that need to be cut down for firewood? If so, you may be better investing in a PTO chipper, and chip all the branches/offcuts. That will give good quality material for compost without needing to go dragging clippings from trails all over the property.

if that was the direction you went, then you'd want a grapple plus 3rd function, and a chipper. Chipping is of course a bit painful, but it's an excellent way to tidy up and collect compost.

 

[mikester]

My land is super rocky. That is why I bought the rake. It worked great getting up the rock and somewhat leveling the land at the same time. But I need to go over it again with out tearing up the soil. Just get more rock.

So wheels or no wheels? I don't want to pay half the cost of the rake itself though.

I made a set of gauge wheels for my blade and wish I did it sooner. I wouldn't hesitate to add them to a landscape rake if you need fine control grading. Get a hydraulic top link too to get the best control all around.