L48 service

[2zl]

Recently purchased a 2006 l48 and am planning to do a line in the sand service. I have the 2 hydraulic filters, the hst filter, 3 pails of premium udt, engine oil filter and 10w 30 diesel oil, and a fuel filter.
Is the anything else i need to change? Do i need to clean the hst screen?
Any tips would be appreciated.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You forgot antifreeze change and air filter or filters (some models have 2 air filters).

 

[Roadworthy]

You may wish to procure a user manual if you don't have one.

 

[2zl]

As with most tractors this age the manual is long gone.
Just wondering if changing the filters are enough or does it also have a screen that needs cleaning.

 

[rbargeron]

There isn't a screen to service or change. The HST draws filtered fluid from the main reservoir and sends it through a heavy duty pressurized filter under the left side floorboard.

There is transmission oil breather under the seat. See attached - 090 (part 32771-37110). If broken or missing water can get in. Take care, Dick B

 

[2zl]

Ok, one less thing to worry about, i never heard of anyone servicing them but had found one on messicks in the hydraulic section.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

As with most tractors this age the manual is long gone.
Just wondering if changing the filters are enough or does it also have a screen that needs cleaning.

I think Roadworthy meant you need to buy a manual for the tractor, you can still get them.
There is a OPS manual (Operation Manual) and a WSM (AKA, Service Manual).

 

[rbargeron]

Ok, one less thing to worry about, i never heard of anyone servicing them but had found one on messicks in the hydraulic section.

Yes, that's a different diagram than I posted above. The coarse strainer 030 catches larger foreign material. After draining the fluid, take it out & clean it - usually no need to replace.

My L48 had worn its HST cradle bearings story here Inspection showed the main outside filter had caught the debris, preventing further damage.

 

[2zl]

Got the oil change done before i noticed the last post. Guess it will have to wait until next time. I took it to a friends garage to change the oils, and after about 2 miles of road running oil really comes out of the split pin.

 

[200mph]

Got the oil change done before i noticed the last post. Guess it will have to wait until next time. I took it to a friends garage to change the oils, and after about 2 miles of road running oil really comes out of the split pin.

That sucks! I wonder if that is why the original owners dumped it on the used market.

Good luck with the split.

 

[rbargeron]

An oil leak at the split pin on the bottom of the clutch housing means oil is leaking in from somewhere. It could either be engine oil (black and sooty) from the rear seal, or it could be transmission oil (clear and clean).

If its trans oil the leak could be at the main clutch shaft OR it could be from the seals on the tubes containing the front driveshaft where it passes through at the bottom of the housing.

The very first step is to make sure oil levels are not overfilled, and that the trans breather is ok. Next collect some leakage and determine whether its black or clear.

Edit: suggestion of injecting grease deleted - see posts below.

Let us know what you find. Best luck, Dick B

 

[2zl]

I will check it out well tomorrow, but the oil isn't perfectly clear but doesn't smell like engine oil, maybe it is picking up some of the dirt in the bottom of the housing before leaking out? I also noticed it leaks the most after driving it continuous for a quarter mile or so, but not so much if i am just working it around the house, so it appears to leak alot more if the wheels are turning alot. I will check the vent as well tomorrow, and report back.

 

[rbargeron]

I will check it out well tomorrow, but the oil isn't perfectly clear but doesn't smell like engine oil, maybe it is picking up some of the dirt in the bottom of the housing before leaking out? I also noticed it leaks the most after driving it continuous for a quarter mile or so, but not so much if i am just working it around the house, so it appears to leak alot more if the wheels are turning alot. I will check the vent as well tomorrow, and report back.

Engine oil is pretty black. Even just changed it picks up micro soot from oil-wet surfaces and gets black quickly. Front driveshaft seals are a more likely source, given your symptom and the amount of owner experience reported on this and other forums.

The original seals were prone to leaking - some dealers started doubling them up, putting two lip seals where the shaft comes out of the transmission.

There was also tube spacer added (170 on attached) running thru the clutch housing to hold the seals in place, and with o-rings on each end. This should have helped keep oil out of the clutch housing - but later seal changes were needed too.

My rig didn't leak before the split and doesn't now - I did noticed the front driveshaft tube was full of dark grey grease surrounding the shaft. MY L48 WSM doesn't mention the spacer or putting grease in the covers.

There are quite a few fwd orange tractors out there that develop leaky front driveshaft seals - some respond to adding the spacer on tractors that didn't have it (there's a service bulletin for it).

Take care, Dick B

 

[2zl]

I ran the tractor for about a hour this am, and its leak is not clear, butdoes not smell like engine oil. It is coming out of the split pin plug as well as where the driveshaft exits the clutch housing. Took some pics but nothing will upload at the moment, will try again later.

 

[2zl]

Here of some pics of the tractor and my oil leak.

 

[2zl]

The machine's history is not known. It has about 3500 hours. Everything on the machine works really well, and the loader and backhoe are very tight. Only issue i have with the machine is the leak.
Would missing item 170 cause a oil leak? I though the seal ran on item 60?

 

[rbargeron]

The pictures show an important clue to what's going on. Looking at the parts diagram above, shaft covers 110 and 160 are MISSING. Maybe the 170 spacer and seals are missing too? The shaft looks like it has been exposed for a while. It looks like an incomplete reassembly after a repair. The missing covers should be reinstated.

 

[rbargeron]

Redesigned seals run tighter on the 60 sleeve and redesigned sleeves fit tighter on the shaft. The spacer's original service bulletin said it was to keep the seals in position. Seal redesign came later. Leaking front driveshaft seals has been an issue since the shaft was relocated inside the trans on 1994 grand L models.

 

[2zl]

Were the seals and sleeve redesigned after 2006?
Going to try work with the garage i bought it from to have it repaired. Thanks for all the help with it.

 

[rbargeron]

Part updates are by serial number. Parts 050 and 060 changed at S/N 61719 on L48's. There may be other changes on other models.

Looking closely in my L48 WSM, its clear that replacing parts 50 and 60 requires splitting the tractor. But it may be possible to insert the 170 spacer & o-rings by just taking out the prop shaft (without splitting the tractor). The WSM shows the spacer but says nothing about it.

From the WSM and drawings its not certain that filling the tubes & spacer with grease will reduce oil leaks, but mine are filled - and it doesn't leak. (It now also has newest seals and sleeves) Good luck - Dick B

P.S. sorry the story flow has been confused with edits.