L4060 HST

OntarioJake

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L4060 HST
Aug 7, 2021
10
0
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Ontario
I have a 2014 L4060 HST, Engine model: V2403 (non-turbo common rail diesel engine) Part#: L406 - V2403-CR-EF03
Won't start. First told it was ECM, okayed the replacement at $ 3500, dealer now says needs new engine (scoring on cylinders from overheating)? New engine quoted at $18 000 and told only that specific exact engine will fit. Lots of other used, rebuilt or surplus v2403 engines available for far cheaper. Can I swap out another v2403 engine, lets say a turbo for a non-turbo?? Surplus vendor says I can swap, dealer says no. Vendor says can use parts from blown engine to exchange with surplus engine to fit?
Don't know who to trust but also don't have $$$ to consider dealers options.
 

sheepfarmer

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I have a 2014 L4060 HST, Engine model: V2403 (non-turbo common rail diesel engine) Part#: L406 - V2403-CR-EF03
Won't start. First told it was ECM, okayed the replacement at $ 3500, dealer now says needs new engine (scoring on cylinders from overheating)? New engine quoted at $18 000 and told only that specific exact engine will fit. Lots of other used, rebuilt or surplus v2403 engines available for far cheaper. Can I swap out another v2403 engine, lets say a turbo for a non-turbo?? Surplus vendor says I can swap, dealer says no. Vendor says can use parts from blown engine to exchange with surplus engine to fit?
Don't know who to trust but also don't have $$$ to consider dealers options.
Hmm? What is the history of the tractor that the dealer thinks a non start requires replacing the engine? The hard part is mating the engine up to the dpf system and controls by ECM. I can't answer your question, but the guys that can will need more information. Kubota puts restrictions in software so that you have to enter the serial number of new parts into ECM to get it to run.
 

nota4re

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Case 580M Turbo; Kioti DK4210SE-CH; Kubota L2501 (Traded-in)
Aug 16, 2019
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Newhall, CA
I hope you are not out the $3500. The dealer mis-diagnosed the problem - you shouldn't eat this.

You say that it won't start. Does the engine spin with the starter and just won't fire? If so, then your dealer is more than likely full of crap. Seems to me that you are getting played - big time!

If engine was seized - won't turn over at all, then maybe I could see possibility of new engine. But the dealer isn't going to replace the ECU on a seized motor hoping it fixes it.

I wouldn't walk away from this dealer, I would run. And, by all means, you should fight to get back all or most of the $3500 for the ECU.
 

Roadworthy

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L2501 HST
Aug 17, 2019
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I agree wholeheartedly with the above. At the very least get a second opinion. I'm curious to know how the dealer decided the cylinders were scored. Did you overheat the tractor at some point?
 

OntarioJake

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L4060 HST
Aug 7, 2021
10
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Ontario
Hmm? What is the history of the tractor that the dealer thinks a non start requires replacing the engine? The hard part is mating the engine up to the dpf system and controls by ECM. I can't answer your question, but the guys that can will need more information. Kubota puts restrictions in software so that you have to enter the serial number of new parts into ECM to get it to run.
Tractor would not start, brought it to dealer, they said burnt ECM on initial inspection and needed new ECM to diagnose further. Once new ECM installed said compression issues with 3 out of 4 cylinders having compression of 300psi range. They said another 900 in labour to inspect further which revealed scoring on cylinders from overheating with diagnosis of needing new engine.
 

OntarioJake

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L4060 HST
Aug 7, 2021
10
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1
Ontario
I hope you are not out the $3500. The dealer mis-diagnosed the problem - you shouldn't eat this.

You say that it won't start. Does the engine spin with the starter and just won't fire? If so, then your dealer is more than likely full of crap. Seems to me that you are getting played - big time!

If engine was seized - won't turn over at all, then maybe I could see possibility of new engine. But the dealer isn't going to replace the ECU on a seized motor hoping it fixes it.

I wouldn't walk away from this dealer, I would run. And, by all means, you should fight to get back all or most of the $3500 for the ECU.
Tractor is my dad's who
now has dementia and I'm handling his affairs. But I went went into health care not mechanics.

So please pardon my ignorance, how do I ask the dealer to partially reimburse the 3500 for the ECM. They called me, said ECM was fried and it needed a new ECM to diagnose further. They called me to okay the ECM and I did. Is it my error out of gambling on ignorance that there wasn't going to be a bigger problem?
Am I justified in asking for the dealer to eat the cost of the ECM because he can use it on another engine (and any new engine I get would have it's own ECM)?
 

OntarioJake

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L4060 HST
Aug 7, 2021
10
0
1
Ontario
I agree wholeheartedly with the above. At the very least get a second opinion. I'm curious to know how the dealer decided the cylinders were scored. Did you overheat the tractor at some point?
Probably, tractor is my dad's who now has dementia, I'm handling his affairs.
But there's a lot of friction in the history with the dealer. My dad bought a tractor in 2012 and there were so many issues with it that Kubota ended up taking it back and upgrading him to the L4060HST in 2014 on the original warrantee.
 

nota4re

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Case 580M Turbo; Kioti DK4210SE-CH; Kubota L2501 (Traded-in)
Aug 16, 2019
128
45
28
Newhall, CA
Sorry about your dad. When the dealership told you "the ECU was fried", they were in essence telling you that you needed to spend $3500 to fix the problem. Well, they were wrong. The ECU was obviously NOT fried and now they are guessing again. Likely others here know more that me, but an ECU should be no where near $3500 anyway.
 

OntarioJake

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L4060 HST
Aug 7, 2021
10
0
1
Ontario
Sorry about your dad. When the dealership told you "the ECU was fried", they were in essence telling you that you needed to spend $3500 to fix the problem. Well, they were wrong. The ECU was obviously NOT fried and now they are guessing again. Likely others here know more that me, but an ECU should be no where near $3500 anyway.
Could my explanation be wrong? Could I be using the word ECU when the meant some other computer control module? What I was told was something to the effect of that the computer wasn't working to provide them with any codes to diagnose the problem, they put they connected another computer to verify that it was my tractor's computer that was the culprit and it communicated with the engine. I was then told that the they needed to replace replace the computer to diagnose the "no start".

It seemed to make sense to me because my dad had issues with what he thought was the alternator 2 years ago and had been repeatedly boosting the tractor to start it. Apparently an alternator was changed and it never resolved the issue. A neighbour of my dad who's somewhat knowledgeable about tractors thought that the alternator was undersized. Last year when I went to my dad's farm I realized that the battery terminal was cracked internally (probably for overtightening or repeatedly taking the battery out or repeatedly boosting it). The battery ground was also broken off and left dangling. I replaced the battery with an oversized battery with 1000 CCA (cold cranking amps) the tractor started fine and didn't need any boosting to start it afterwards. But I never drove the tractor or sat behind the wheel. Nor did I fix the ground. Later I found out that my dad was having issues with the REGEN and issues with an "alarm" sounding and a display code that said "contact dealer". My brother said the alarm and display warning started weeks before the battery was replaced. But REGEN issues started after. My dad and my brother did something with fuses and forced a REGEN. The tractor continued to starting and running with an audible alarm and same display warning. This spring she just stalled and would not start. That's when I found out that the alarm and display code had been an issue.

So to me, it seemed to make sense. There was obviously an electronic fault. But I don't know enough to determine if I'm a total idiot or just a naïve idiot for trusting the dealer.
 

sheepfarmer

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L3560, B2650, Gator, Ingersoll mower
Nov 14, 2014
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Could my explanation be wrong? Could I be using the word ECU when the meant some other computer control module? What I was told was something to the effect of that the computer wasn't working to provide them with any codes to diagnose the problem, they put they connected another computer to verify that it was my tractor's computer that was the culprit and it communicated with the engine. I was then told that the they needed to replace replace the computer to diagnose the "no start".

It seemed to make sense to me because my dad had issues with what he thought was the alternator 2 years ago and had been repeatedly boosting the tractor to start it. Apparently an alternator was changed and it never resolved the issue. A neighbour of my dad who's somewhat knowledgeable about tractors thought that the alternator was undersized. Last year when I went to my dad's farm I realized that the battery terminal was cracked internally (probably for overtightening or repeatedly taking the battery out or repeatedly boosting it). The battery ground was also broken off and left dangling. I replaced the battery with an oversized battery with 1000 CCA (cold cranking amps) the tractor started fine and didn't need any boosting to start it afterwards. But I never drove the tractor or sat behind the wheel. Nor did I fix the ground. Later I found out that my dad was having issues with the REGEN and issues with an "alarm" sounding and a display code that said "contact dealer". My brother said the alarm and display warning started weeks before the battery was replaced. But REGEN issues started after. My dad and my brother did something with fuses and forced a REGEN. The tractor continued to starting and running with an audible alarm and same display warning. This spring she just stalled and would not start. That's when I found out that the alarm and display code had been an issue.

So to me, it seemed to make sense. There was obviously an electronic fault. But I don't know enough to determine if I'm a total idiot or just a naïve idiot for trusting the dealer.
Argh, the poor tractor has had a tough life despite everyone's best intentions. Pretty much nothing will work right without a good ground, especially the ecu. You can fry the ecu jump starting it wrong or hooking up the battery terminals in the wrong order. Running a tractor in spite of the error message to take to dealer may have been a tactical error. Normally it takes a dealer and his laptop to force a refen. The regen issues will cause the tractor to refuse to run but wouldn't cause the damage to the engine, so it is not clear how to proceed. You are not a total idiot, but too soon to tell if dealer is correct.

Do you have the shop manual for this tractor, to see if you can backtrack to see if you can figure out what happened. Something screwed up the engine as well as the ecu. No one so far knows the answer to your original question, as to whether you can use another engine. I am not optimistic as I think you still need the dealer to program ecu to work with it. With luck lugbolt or white tiger will log in and see this.
 

eserv

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BX24, A1000 Kubota Generator
May 27, 2009
2,140
139
63
Hardisty, Alberta
Pistons are available .25mm (.010) over for this engine. Likely rebuilding it would be your cheapest option. Your Kubota dealership might not have the expertise to properly accomplish this though!
 
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MOOTS

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MX6000
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Argh, the poor tractor has had a tough life despite everyone's best intentions. Pretty much nothing will work right without a good ground, especially the ecu. You can fry the ecu jump starting it wrong or hooking up the battery terminals in the wrong order. Running a tractor in spite of the error message to take to dealer may have been a tactical error. Normally it takes a dealer and his laptop to force a refen. The regen issues will cause the tractor to refuse to run but wouldn't cause the damage to the engine, so it is not clear how to proceed. You are not a total idiot, but too soon to tell if dealer is correct.

Do you have the shop manual for this tractor, to see if you can backtrack to see if you can figure out what happened. Something screwed up the engine as well as the ecu. No one so far knows the answer to your original question, as to whether you can use another engine. I am not optimistic as I think you still need the dealer to program ecu to work with it. With luck lugbolt or white tiger will log in and see this.
@lugbolt @whitetiger
 
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OntarioJake

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L4060 HST
Aug 7, 2021
10
0
1
Ontario
Pistons are available .25mm (.010) over for this engine. Likely rebuilding it would be your cheapest option. Your Kubota dealership might not have the expertise to properly accomplish this though!
Thanks, I will see if I find someone else to look at it.
 

OntarioJake

New member

Equipment
L4060 HST
Aug 7, 2021
10
0
1
Ontario
Argh, the poor tractor has had a tough life despite everyone's best intentions. Pretty much nothing will work right without a good ground, especially the ecu. You can fry the ecu jump starting it wrong or hooking up the battery terminals in the wrong order. Running a tractor in spite of the error message to take to dealer may have been a tactical error. Normally it takes a dealer and his laptop to force a refen. The regen issues will cause the tractor to refuse to run but wouldn't cause the damage to the engine, so it is not clear how to proceed. You are not a total idiot, but too soon to tell if dealer is correct.

Do you have the shop manual for this tractor, to see if you can backtrack to see if you can figure out what happened. Something screwed up the engine as well as the ecu. No one so far knows the answer to your original question, as to whether you can use another engine. I am not optimistic as I think you still need the dealer to program ecu to work with it. With luck lugbolt or white tiger will log in and see this.
Thank you!
 

lugbolt

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ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
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I have a 2014 L4060 HST, Engine model: V2403 (non-turbo common rail diesel engine) Part#: L406 - V2403-CR-EF03
Won't start. First told it was ECM, okayed the replacement at $ 3500, dealer now says needs new engine (scoring on cylinders from overheating)?
they should have done compression and fuel system pressure test long before a new expensive ECU was ordered!!



New engine quoted at $18 000 and told only that specific exact engine will fit. [/QUOTE[

this is correct.

Lots of other used, rebuilt or surplus v2403 engines available for far cheaper. Can I swap out another v2403 engine, lets say a turbo for a non-turbo?? Surplus vendor says I can swap, dealer says no. Vendor says can use parts from blown engine to exchange with surplus engine to fit?
Don't know who to trust but also don't have $$$ to consider dealers options.


V2403's are not all the same. V2403-CR's are completely different than most other V2403's, the only similarities are the displacement and they're both diesel fuel powered. They can share the same bellhousings too. However, not only does the CR work differently, it's also illegal in the usa to install a previous tier emissions (e.g., tier 1,2,3 even interim tier 4) engine onto equipment that is tier 4 final emissions rated which is what you have currently. This is exactly why the EPA mandates that if an engine is replaced, it's supposed to be destroyed and then the destruction and scrapping must be documented. Trust me from experience--it's a pain!! And to add to that, Kubota (or any other diesel manufacturer) has to keep records of this for infinity. And folks wonder why this newer stuff costs so much??? They don't want old engines out there. They want all new tier 4 stuff out there, and there's fixing to be another tier added sooner or later, which is a mandated ~50% reduction in the already extremely stringent NOx and PM standards. It's getting ridiculous and with our current government leaders, it's going to get even more ridiculous. To the point where they're gonna have to consider what to do about going to different types of fuel and/or just keep jacking the prices up. Pretty soon common people won't be able to afford to do anything.

surplus vendors have engines to sell you and they don't take returns usually so if you buy one, that's all they care is that they sold you an engine and made a couple hundred bucks. They don't address the fact that your tractor has a computer controlled engine, meaning none of the wiring will work, the $3500 ecu you just bought won't work, the fuel system is completely different, and a bunch of other differences, they are assuming that V2403's are all the same and they are not.

So what these guys think is that you can spend a buch of money on their used engine and then you (the end user) get to buy a bunch of other stuff to make that used engine work, and in the long run you'll have just as much $$$ tied up in an old used V2403 as you would if you'd have bought the new one in the first place. Maybe even more by time all the necessary changes are made.

Sheepfarmer, yes sometimes a neglected stage 5 will contribute to engine failure. Why/how? The dpf can be thought of as a screen in the exhaust stream (although it's a lot more complex than that in reality). The screen plugs up, egt's rise, and keep rising. If it doesn't regenerate and get all the soot out, it just plugs up, egt gets out of sight, and it's entirely possible that the engine can eat itself alive. I've seen an M6-111 do it. That is why there are safeguards, beepers, de-rated power and rpm, etc. Those help protect the engine from neglect and sometimes from other failures that contribute to a plugged dpf. When I say engine failure, it typically means burnt/ broken piston(s) and exhaust valves.

for these and many more reasons, the technician's job is no longer "it just needs an engine". It is now their responsibility to find out the root cause and that is where the hardest part of the job is. The owner or operator a lot of times never really knows what happened, or won't admit to it in some cases. Used to with the old mechanical injected engines, if I had one that didn't run, first thing is to check fuel. If it has fuel going to the engine, do a compression test. If it has fuel and compression, it is likely going to run unless it is starved for air somehow. Now with the CR engines-and owners that don't understand them-there is much, much more involved in doing a proper and thorough diagnosis. Us old guys who cut our teeth on mechanicals are throwed for a loop. Fuel? Sure. It's got fuel to the filter and lift pump, but what about the scv? What about the rail and rail sensor? Regulator in some cases? Injectors? ECU? Wiring? CAN system? Is it injecting fuel at all or is it just cranking over and moving air? It's all computerized now, so that stuff isn't terribly hard to figure out BUT there is STILL a need for a technician to use some common mechanical sense. You don't want to sell a $3500 part to a customer not knowing with 100% certainty that it will fix his or her problem. Or if there is any question if it will, you need to be up front with the owner--they should be telling you that the ECU is dead, and should be replaced-however it might still have other issues, are you willing to go forward or? Now when I did it (and I dont' anymore....thank goodness!!!), in a rare situation like this (and there were 2 that I can think of, M6-111 and an SVL95) there is another way. If I knew the ECU was dead, but questioned the integrity of anything else such as the engine, I'd gas-rag the engine to see if it would even try to start. The M6 would not, the SVL95 would. So I knew right away that the M6 needed internal engine inspection, but the SVL was likely to run. I do not recommend doing this as it's real easy to mess up a good engine doing so, but it let us know how to approach the consumer. Typically if the engine is low on compression, you can tell by the way it cranks over. If there is any gut feeling that it's low, get authorization to do a compression test, and then you know. And in this case it sounds like they jumped the gun which is really easy to do in a fast-paced shop like the one I worked in. I like fast paced but when you do 2 or 3 weeks consecutive 1-3 hour each lawn mower services and then a M6 comes in needing an engine, you have to totally change gears and it's VERY hard to do for any tech. Particularly techs that get paid on commission; they'll a lot of times have more than one job going on at once which makes it easier to make errors.
 
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OntarioJake

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L4060 HST
Aug 7, 2021
10
0
1
Ontario
they should have done compression and fuel system pressure test long before a new expensive ECU was ordered!!
Thanks,

Then what do I do. This is my situation. My dad has dementia, he was a scrap metal collector as a hobby. The farm has not been a production farm for years. I have to liquidate his property but in order to do that I need 3 years and a working tractor with a front end loader, and a snowblower (all of which I have for the L4060).

I'm in Canada and not the USA but the emission laws are probably just the same leading to the same issues about installing a lower tier engine.
I'm already into this tractor for $6000 , if I spend $25 000 on this tractor what is my loss in 3 years.

Do I stop now and sell the tractor with implements as is & buy an old rig to get the work done?

Do I bring this tractor to a greymarket mechanic to bypass all the emission restriction and get the tractor running with a frankenstein engine for the 3 years that I need it because in the end with the history of this tractor and it's age I'll end up selling it at the same price wether it's grey market repair or brand new engine from kubota dealer?
 

Blue316

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2016 L4060, Ford flail mower, etc.
Sep 19, 2021
6
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1
Vashon Wa
I just joined and this is the first thread I came across...
What happened and what did you decided to do?
You don't say what the tractors condition is or how many hours are on it, but besides getting a second opinion I would have suggested that you sell your L4060 its value if it were in good condition and running is probably around $25 thousand, but as is its pretty limited. So buy another tractor of similar size, all of the attachments you have will fit your new/used tractor as long as you have a cat 1 hitch.
 

Aprilsfool2021

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Mx5200
Nov 1, 2021
8
3
1
43
Usa
Tractor would not start, brought it to dealer, they said burnt ECM on initial inspection and needed new ECM to diagnose further. Once new ECM installed said compression issues with 3 out of 4 cylinders having compression of 300psi range. They said another 900 in labour to inspect further which revealed scoring on cylinders from overheating with diagnosis of needing new engine.
Man, im struggling to fathom how a dealer could be this incompetent, which only lets me believe they must be servicing you not the tractor. 300 on 3 out of 4 cylinders my ass. You just cant confuse a bad ecm with a bad engine. Take the advice from these people here and get the tractor out of there. Find a diesel mechanic close to you that has experience with common rail and go talk to them.