Ok I have a L3800 with Fel. It also comes with a woods bushhog. Now if I disconnect the bushhog isn't there a bar that goes through the holes in the lift arms and secured with 4 pins?. My reasoning about the bar is that it is required there to keep the lift arms from rubbing against the tires. Am I correct?. Frank
l3800
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North Idaho Wolfman
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Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
The arms on mine do not rub the tires, but I have ag tires. Best to use a counter weight on the 3 pt when the mower is off and using FEL.
Mine came with a bungee to keep them together, but bluegill is right. You'll want some weight on the back for FEL use. You should have turn buckles, that might it be what they're called, they should pretty much hold the lower arms in place.
When I first got my l3800 I was using a category 2 box blade, while it worked it was to wide and the turn buckles barley missed my tires.
Cheapest option, buy a good bungee cord.
Second option, buy a cat 1 drawbar.
Best option, buy an implement like a box blade or something similar for a counter weight and at the same time it will keep the lower arms from hitting your tires.
Good luck....
When I first got my l3800 I was using a category 2 box blade, while it worked it was to wide and the turn buckles barley missed my tires.
Cheapest option, buy a good bungee cord.
Second option, buy a cat 1 drawbar.
Best option, buy an implement like a box blade or something similar for a counter weight and at the same time it will keep the lower arms from hitting your tires.
Good luck....
Cautionary note regarding 3-point drawbar:
Sooner or later you may want to pull something with a chain hooked around that 3-point drawbar. Do not do this.
You'll flip that tractor backwards so fast you'll never know you're dead.
If you must pull or drag anything with the tractor be certain you are using ONLY the drawbar that sticks out from beneath the rear differential. Around my area called 'swinging drawbar' or 'PTO drawbar'.
You may find that by making the swinging drawbar shorter you can leave it on the machine when using different implements; some implements may require you remove it.
Any time you pull using an attachment point on the machine higher than the center of the rear axle you have a distinct probability of flipping the tractor---always pull from a point lower than the rear axle.
Say you latch onto something that doesn't move (or you're dragging a stump that suddenly hangs up) with a chain hooked to the 3-point drawbar. As the chain tightens, the 3-point swivels higher and higher as the rear wheels continue forward until suddenly the 3-point is at full height, the rear wheels turn in place, and the entire tractor rotates around the rear axle resulting in the nose of the tractor suddenly sticking straight up. Now you're fixing to be really really used up fast.
Every couple years in our rural area somebody gets killed like this.
The swinging drawbar may be unique to your machine and not be cheap. It may also need a particular odd bolt or fastener forward of the differential. If you only buy one, get the swinger and use bungee cords to hold the 3-point lift arms from flopping around.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.
Sooner or later you may want to pull something with a chain hooked around that 3-point drawbar. Do not do this.
You'll flip that tractor backwards so fast you'll never know you're dead.
If you must pull or drag anything with the tractor be certain you are using ONLY the drawbar that sticks out from beneath the rear differential. Around my area called 'swinging drawbar' or 'PTO drawbar'.
You may find that by making the swinging drawbar shorter you can leave it on the machine when using different implements; some implements may require you remove it.
Any time you pull using an attachment point on the machine higher than the center of the rear axle you have a distinct probability of flipping the tractor---always pull from a point lower than the rear axle.
Say you latch onto something that doesn't move (or you're dragging a stump that suddenly hangs up) with a chain hooked to the 3-point drawbar. As the chain tightens, the 3-point swivels higher and higher as the rear wheels continue forward until suddenly the 3-point is at full height, the rear wheels turn in place, and the entire tractor rotates around the rear axle resulting in the nose of the tractor suddenly sticking straight up. Now you're fixing to be really really used up fast.
Every couple years in our rural area somebody gets killed like this.
The swinging drawbar may be unique to your machine and not be cheap. It may also need a particular odd bolt or fastener forward of the differential. If you only buy one, get the swinger and use bungee cords to hold the 3-point lift arms from flopping around.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.
I do my dragging by wrapping a chain around the beam of the box blade. With the FEL on the tractor and a few hundred pounds in the bucket, you gain a good boost in pulling power before losing traction. My machine as configured is incapable of lifting the front end w/ weight in the bucket. Now if the load is shifted by 45 degrees or so to either side, you risk putting the tractor on its side. This danger is averted by keeping the BB just above the ground and always keeping a hand on the 3pt lever.
Operate your machine within the limits you set. The only absolute way to avoid every danger in operating the machine is to leave it parked in the shed.
I keep the BB on the machine if I have nothing else immediately planned for the 3pt. I do occasionally do FEL work w/ the cutter on which is better ballast than the BB. Don't use the FEL w/ out proper ballast. You place unnecessary strain on the front axle and significantly increase the risk of putting the tractor on its side. The front axle does absolutely nothing to prevent the tractor from tipping, and can actually increase the chance of a roll over.
Operate your machine within the limits you set. The only absolute way to avoid every danger in operating the machine is to leave it parked in the shed.
I keep the BB on the machine if I have nothing else immediately planned for the 3pt. I do occasionally do FEL work w/ the cutter on which is better ballast than the BB. Don't use the FEL w/ out proper ballast. You place unnecessary strain on the front axle and significantly increase the risk of putting the tractor on its side. The front axle does absolutely nothing to prevent the tractor from tipping, and can actually increase the chance of a roll over.