L3200/3800 Options Advice

[Parshal]

I'm pricing out a new L series with FEL for use with a bush hog for mowing and a grader for dirt driveway maintenance and snow removal. I'll use the loader for moving dirt around a barn and moving gravel.

Here is what I'm having quoted. From my reading here, it seems adding the rear weights will help me with traction in the snow as well as with the bucket. I'm choosing the R1 tires for snow traction. Anything obvious I'm missing?

R1 Ag tires
LA524 Loader Package
L2256-66" Quick Attach Square Back Bucket
L8066A Rear Wheel Weights (3 pair)
L8327 Rear Work Light

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I would think about filling the tires with Rim Guard instead of the wheel weights. You will get more weight for less money.

Depending on how much grading you will be doing, but you may want to get 2-3 rear remotes. Then get a top & tilt set so that you can do that grading better and faster.

Assuming that you will be getting a rear blade for plowing snow, you should look at a 7 footer as heavy as you can afford to get. Maybe take a look here or over here.

Something else to consider is a grading scraper. These are pretty hard to beat when it comes to maintaining a dirt-gravel drive.

Good luck, feel free to ask more questions.

 

[Parshal]

Good info. Thanks.

I thought about getting the remotes so I don't have to get off the seat in the snow to change the angle but it seems that, along with the higher priced blades, is $2 - $3k more than just getting off the seat. Maybe my figures are off, though. Is it more expensive to add the remotes later if I decide to go that route after the fact?

I won't be doing to much grading, just after heavy rains which don't come all that too often where I am in Colorado. This would be used mostly for pasture mowing and snow removal and other odd jobs.

I wasn't sure about filling the tires but that's certainly something I could do. I need to make sure whatever I put in them won't kill my dogs when they find a leak and decide to drink it. It looks like Rim Guard is non-toxic so that's good.

I realize the weights are more expensive but I also wonder how much weight I'll want for snow traction and offset weight for the FEL. I guess I could do both. Also, would it be a good idea to get wheel spacers?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'm pretty sure that if you were to get the 3 remotes when the tractor is ordered, they would be $1474, maybe minus some. If you were to get them after the fact, I would guess it would be $1474 + installation.

You can go the aftermarket route, better valves for less money, just have to fab up a valve mount. Not really that hard and then you can get the controls where you want them. Should be around $900 and you can do that at anytime for that price.

Yes the hydraulic blades are a lot more $$$$, but they are twice the implement too.

I can guaranty you that stopping, getting on and off the tractor gets old real quick. That is unless you happen to be the only person in the world that is getting younger.

Wheel spacers probably not needed with the R1 tires. Just have them turned so that they are out to the widest possible setting.

I hope that some of this info helps you out.

 

[Parshal]

I'm definitely not getting younger!!!

This whole thing is getting more expensive the more I look at it. First, I didn't even realize I needed a tractor until after I put the house under contract. Then, I figured I'd get a decent tractor for about $10k. Well, now I'm looking at new ones simply because the used ones aren't there. Then, I'm going bigger because bigger is always better regardless of need. And, now, we're talking hydraulics. When will it stop?! I'm guessing after I've bought it all. LOL

My thought is now to buy the biggest tractor I can afford and add stuff later as I realize I want it. The same seems to be going for the detached garage as well.

Thanks for the info!

 

[Parshal]

I just found a L4200DT with FEL and 1750 hours for $8500 OBO. I wonder if I'd be happy with that rather than $22k on a new 3800.

 

[rparkinson]

I just bought a new L3200. I am in maine and use it alot for moving snow and gravel. I maintain a half mile long private road with it. Super machine. I did put a tnt kit on from mtnviewranch. Glad I did. But I have a lot of road I use it on too. I run r4's with rimgaurd and it is awesome. I do run chains. I would recommend the rim guard with an implement on back for weight, or make a small cement counter weight. I made a big one, I think it is around 800-900 lbs. and it makes it a whole different machine. If you are going to finance the machine, I would get the remotes if you think there is any chance at all you will want them down the road, at least then you dont have to lay out cash- just my cents.... good luck!!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I just found a L4200DT with FEL and 1750 hours for $8500 OBO. I wonder if I'd be happy with that rather than $22k on a new 3800.

In my opinion, the 1750 hrs is nothing if the machine was-is well maintained. If the tractor is close to what you want, then it could be a good deal. If not, even with it being a low cost machine, you may regret getting it.

Keep in mind that what I have mentioned and what others mention is all in trying to help you out. I know that when I first purchased some new implements way back when, I took the dealers recommendation, afterall they know what their doing right? WRONG, I spent about $2000 for implements that were ruined after just a few times of use. Complained to the dealer and was told that I had abused them and that I was on my own. They were the ones that recommended 40-50hp implements for a 75hp tractor.

Anyway, just trying to give you a heads up on stuff that is available and that you may not even know that exists. Very common, especially when it comes to hydraulics, both for the tractor and for implements.

Check out the L4200, it may be just what you want-need. One of those things of you won't know without looking.

Good luck.

 

[Parshal]

I appreciate the responses. I'll definitely have to get implements with any tractor I get.

This 4200 looks good to me. The drivetrain is a little greasy at the drain bolts and it does look like there's a rear remote setup. I have to wait til the owner arrives to take it for a spin. For an 18 year old tractor it looks great. We will see.

 

[senecak19]

I just bought a new L3200. I am in maine and use it alot for moving snow and gravel. I maintain a half mile long private road with it. Super machine. I did put a tnt kit on from mtnviewranch. Glad I did. But I have a lot of road I use it on too. I run r4's with rimgaurd and it is awesome. I do run chains. I would recommend the rim guard with an implement on back for weight, or make a small cement counter weight. I made a big one, I think it is around 800-900 lbs. and it makes it a whole different machine. If you are going to finance the machine, I would get the remotes if you think there is any chance at all you will want them down the road, at least then you dont have to lay out cash- just my cents.... good luck!!

I bought this same tractor for the same reason. Zero interest, no hassles with dealing with a used tractor. Not that I'm recommending this, but I'm relatively new to the tractor world and couldn't afford to be running into troubles with a used one right out of the gate. Could I deal with it? Surely. I'd like to think I'm handy... having a carpentry business, car lift, welding equipment, etc... but this was just one less thing for me to worry about. My tractor came the way you described in post number 1 with the exception of the wheel weights (I got Rim Guard). Just like everyone else, I'm off spending $$$ on implements. That's been my thought process for what its worth.

 

[Parshal]

I ended up buyin the L4200. It's mechanically sound and seems to be to be in great shape. $8200 with 1750 hours and an LA680 FEL. It also has one remote hydraulic in the rear. I'm posting the price in case someone is ever searching for info on the prices for these. I couldn't find much about this particular model when I was searching the various forums.

Thanks for all the responses. I'm going to check into the largest hydraulic blade I can afford. I may just buy the mower from the current homeowner if it's large enough. That won't be used but twice a year and I think it can get it cheap enough to try it out.

 

[senecak19]

I ended up buyin the L4200. It's mechanically sound and seems to be to be in great shape. $8200 with 1750 hours and an LA680 FEL. It also has one remote hydraulic in the rear. I'm posting the price in case someone is ever searching for info on the prices for these. I couldn't find much about this particular model when I was searching the various forums.

Thanks for all the responses. I'm going to check into the largest hydraulic blade I can afford. I may just buy the mower from the current homeowner if it's large enough. That won't be used but twice a year and I think it can get it cheap enough to try it out.

Welcome to the family. Keep us posted on all of your fun new attachments. We like pictures!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I ended up buyin the L4200. It's mechanically sound and seems to be to be in great shape. $8200 with 1750 hours and an LA680 FEL. It also has one remote hydraulic in the rear. I'm posting the price in case someone is ever searching for info on the prices for these. I couldn't find much about this particular model when I was searching the various forums.

Thanks for all the responses. I'm going to check into the largest hydraulic blade I can afford. I may just buy the mower from the current homeowner if it's large enough. That won't be used but twice a year and I think it can get it cheap enough to try it out.

Here it is, an RBT3584 would be just right. Now only to be able to pay for it. You may need a couple of more rear remotes though.

 

[Parshal]

I'm definitely looking at that!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'm definitely looking at that!

I have it's big brother, an RBT45108. They sure are nice blades.

 

[Parshal]

How many remotes do you need for that? I only have one so what would be best for me to use that for with that blade?

 

[Parshal]

I did a little calling around today about that blade. It would cost me around $2950 with just the angle hydraulic. The 2684 blade with an angle hydraulic would be around $1950. These blade won't see tons of use and I'm wondering about $1000 for 160 pounds. That's a tough one to swallow. To get full use out of the 35 I'd really need to add more remotes.

Anyone run the 2684? Is it that much less blade?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

How many remotes do you need for that? I only have one so what would be best for me to use that for with that blade?

The way that I want to use my setup, it takes 4 rear remotes. 2 for the top & tilt set on the 3pt and 2 for the blade. 1 for angle and 1 for offset. I currently only have 3, so I manually change the offset when that needs to be done. I just finished a guys M7040 that needed 6 rear remotes for his setup.

With only a single rear remote, angle would be the function that I would use with the hydraulic.

Not sure where you are getting only 160 lb difference. I see the RB2684 at 396lbs and the RBT3584 at 709lbs. That's is 313lb difference or just about 80% heavier.

If you want to save some money, but it without any hydraulics or the manual slide adjusters. Both of those items are big money from LP. Buy aftermarket cylinders for the angle and the offset functions, they are waaaaay less $$$.

You really need about 100lbs per foot width for rear blades to work very well. Yes you can get by with less, but in no way do they function as well.

 

[Parshal]

You're right, I meant the RB3584 rather than the RBT3584. It weighs 533 lbs. and you can add one cylinder. I never thought about aftermarket cylinders. Good idea. Maybe I can find a used RB3584 and add a cylinder.

Thanks!

 

[tempforce]

fill the rear tires, you won't regret it… rv pipe and drain antifreeze works great, is cheep and is non toxic.