L3130 engine replacement

[The Man With No Shoes]

So im here to throw the old man under the bus or more appropriately the tractor. The old man (83) did not take advice and tried a penny pinch oil change. He used the "oil" filter he found in the shed. It was not an oil filter but a fuel filter and he seized the engine.
What are our options on replacing that engine? Are we tied to the d1503 engine or are there other options? If no other options can we use a d1503 from a different piece of equipment like a skidsteer?
All info is greatly appreciated as this is an important piece of equipment on the property and needs to be back in service.

 

[Jsjac]

I have never bought from this outfit but it looks like they have a lot of stuff.

Kubota D1503TMER-AG Rebuilt Engine: Kubota R420S Wheel Loader

<div class="currency"><strong>Engine:</strong> $5500.00</div> <div class="enginedetails"> <strong>Core Deposit:</strong> $1500.00 </div>

www.countrysalesandservice.com

 

[The Man With No Shoes]

I have never bought from this outfit but it looks like they have a lot of stuff.

Kubota D1503TMER-AG Rebuilt Engine: Kubota R420S Wheel Loader

<div class="currency"><strong>Engine:</strong> $5500.00</div> <div class="enginedetails"> <strong>Core Deposit:</strong> $1500.00 </div>

www.countrysalesandservice.com

Thank you yes i saw that site but before I get too excited there are some questions i hope to get answers to. Then ill know what if any options I have

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thank you yes i saw that site but before I get too excited there are some questions i hope to get answers to. Then ill know what if any options I have

No you really can't just swap out to a different engine, too many variables.
And a lot of times the skid steer and other use engines will not have the proper governor or the proper fuel cam, and the fuel cam runs the hydraulic pump.
So stick with a rebuilt D1503 that was built for tractor use.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

could you just replace the liners/pistons/rings. usually sold as a set ? Will need a 'gasket kit' as well.
providing there's good 'lower end' access, it should be a reasonably easy job ??

 

[Fedup]

could you just replace the liners/pistons/rings. usually sold as a set ? Will need a 'gasket kit' as well.
providing there's good 'lower end' access, it should be a reasonably easy job ??

Maybe I'm way off base here, but how does "good lower end access" help in checking and/or changing main bearings? Repairing an oil starved engine you would do it without regard to them?

 

[pigdoc]

Maybe I'm way off base here, but how does "good lower end access" help in checking and/or changing main bearings? Repairing an oil starved engine you would do it without regard to them?

I have changed crankshaft bearings in a Farmall Cub from the bottom side. Piece of cake. Wouldn't think of doing it any other way. But, OP sounds like he's going to be dependent upon a machine shop, and they're going to prefer to have the engine on a stand for a full work-up. He'd have to balance the cost of fixing the original motor or buying a new motor. I think the first option is probably going to be the least expensive. Unless he needs a new crankshaft.

I have a funny story about the bearings in the Cub. I bought that tractor from a colleague at work, not running, for $400. PO stated that the engine had been rebuilt (but not run) recently. Got it running and drove it up on the trailer (just needed the points polished and a new coil), but it had a knock in the lower end. Got the oil pan off, and found out that the mains were ground 0.010" under, and the rod journals were ground 0.020" under. Whoever built the motor put in -0.010" bearings on both mains and rod journals! Hence the knock. Threw in a set of -0.020" rod bearings, and flipped the tractor for $800. [It had lived its entire life outside, so it was a rusty mess. And the transmission had been full of water for many years.] Plasti-gage? Who needs it? I just bought the tractor as a favor, because it had rear wheel weights on it, which I kept. And, it came with a full set of cults and an extra hitch setup. [Anybody need any of that stuff? I'm getting out of Cubs.]

Sorry to OP for hijacking his posting.
-Paul

 

[Fedup]

I have changed crankshaft bearings in a Farmall Cub from the bottom side. Piece of cake. Wouldn't think of doing it any other way. But, OP sounds like he's going to be dependent upon a machine shop, and they're going to prefer to have the engine on a stand for a full work-up. He'd have to balance the cost of fixing the original motor or buying a new motor. I think the first option is probably going to be the least expensive. Unless he needs a new crankshaft.

I have a funny story about the bearings in the Cub. I bought that tractor from a colleague at work, not running, for $400. PO stated that the engine had been rebuilt (but not run) recently. Got it running and drove it up on the trailer (just needed the points polished and a new coil), but it had a knock in the lower end. Got the oil pan off, and found out that the mains were ground 0.010" under, and the rod journals were ground 0.020" under. Whoever built the motor put in -0.010" bearings on both mains and rod journals! Hence the knock. Threw in a set of -0.020" rod bearings, and flipped the tractor for $800. [It had lived its entire life outside, so it was a rusty mess]. Plasti-gage? Who needs it? I just bought the tractor as a favor, because it had rear wheel weights on it, which I kept. And, it came with a full set of cults and an extra hitch setup. [Anybody need any of that stuff? I'm getting out of Cubs.]

Sorry to OP for hijacking his posting.
-Paul

This is no Farmall Cub. You don't have access to the main bearings until you remove the crankshaft/bearing supports. It all comes out of the block from the back end. Sorry, but I don't see it as "piece of cake", Maybe you do

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

On this and most Kubota engines you would need to remove the engine from the tractor to do main bearings, the crank and the main bearing holders are removed out the back and not out of the bottom.

 

[pigdoc]

Ya guys, that is what I was implying.
It's one thing to be working on a 60 75 year-old tractor, it's QUITE another to be working on a 10 year-old tractor after all the aspiring 'engineers' have had their effect on, uh, improving the design...

I'm too much Old School, I guess...
Just saying that changing bearings from the bottom side has been done before.
Showing off too much, I guess....

Hey TMWNS, the Original Poster: we're not going to buy that D1105-TE in the Toro Reelmaster. Located in southeast PA. Looks like a GOOD engine. I can get you the hour-meter reading late tomorrow. I'm guessing it's around 2000 hrs. PM me.

Something better came up. Like, a truckload of Cummins 4BTs and 6BTs for scrap price? Incredible...

-Paul

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

could you just replace the liners/pistons/rings. usually sold as a set ? Will need a 'gasket kit' as well.
providing there's good 'lower end' access, it should be a reasonably easy job ??

No you can not replace the liners without removing the engine and tearing it completely down..
They require pressing and machining to size.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Hey TMWNS, the Original Poster: we're not going to buy that D1105-TE in the Toro Reelmaster. Located in southeast PA. Looks like a GOOD engine. I can get you the hour-meter reading late tomorrow. I'm guessing it's around 2000 hrs. PM me.

He CAN NOT use the D1105 in place of a D1503!