Installing a B2733 Quick-Attach Frame on a BX24.

[dschad]

Hi all,
I just picked up a BX5450 snow blower from a B2320, where it had a B2733 quick-attach and B2788 Mid-PTO kit. My goal is to put it on a BX24. I was aware that the BX24 requires the B2751 and B2753, but the price was worth the risk.

Having spent way to much time trying to figure out what work with what in the B/BX snow-blower confusion, I will try to document what is required to get this to work...and I think it looks promising, really.

I did a mockup in my driveway of the components with PTO shaft connected, and it appears that there only three little issues:
1) the overall length is about 3" too long:

2) The frame rail is too tall for the mounting C shape to be captured in the Q-A frame mount:

3) And, not surprisingly, there is no rear mounting point just hanging around, waiting:



Other than that, it fits up perfectly, except for the mower deck tabs, which would bump up, if it wasn't three inches too long:



Overall I think it will be not so bad. My plan is to put together a 3" extension on the front frame rail which will support the sub-frame. For the rear I'm not sure of the exact approach, but it will likely be a cross-bar between the frame rails, just under where the FEL bolts to the frame. Possibly using those bolts as mounting points, or the actual FEL tower supports.

Anyway, just getting going. Any suggestions welcome. I'll try to keep the saga updated, in hopes that others will benefit.

Don

 

[DustyRusty]

Don, I commented on the other thread that you started, and I now have a clear understanding of what you have and what you are attempting to do. I stand by my other post and suggest that you sell the hitch for the B, since it has a lot of value, and look for a used hitch from a BX.

 

[dschad]

Don, I commented on the other thread that you started, and I now have a clear understanding of what you have and what you are attempting to do. I stand by my other post and suggest that you sell the hitch for the B, since it has a lot of value, and look for a used hitch from a BX.

I don't disagree, and it was my original escape plan, but like everything - the devil is in the details. I don't think that finding the right combination of sub-frame + PTO shaft will prove that easy. I've done some searching, and didn't come up with anything. Quite a few ads over time looking to swap shafts b/c they have the wrong ones, etc. The logistics when you find exactly what you need, on the wrong size of the country. Over time, the universe might align correctly and make it easy, but who likes to wait?

If adaptation required modifying the subframe or tractor, I would be more aggressive about getting the correct parts. For the moment it doesn't look like too bad a job to make an adapter/bracket, although, as a wise man once said - the devil is in the details! I think is worth some proof-of-concept work at this time.

Fingers crossed, we will see how it goes.

 

[DustyRusty]

I just looked at your profile, and it says "From NH". New Hampshire is a big state, and if you pick a city or town near you, I promise that I won't come to your town to take your Kubota. I mention this because I check the Kubota ads regularly around the general area where I live, and I do see them available from time to time. As an example, would Worcester MA be too far for you? If you live near Claremont, New Hampshire it is about a 2 1/2 hour ride and what I consider the reasonable distance you might not. I will let you know if I see something come available in the next few weeks.

 

[dschad]

I just looked at your profile, and it says "From NH". New Hampshire is a big state, and if you pick a city or town near you, I promise that I won't come to your town to take your Kubota. I mention this because I check the Kubota ads regularly around the general area where I live, and I do see them available from time to time. As an example, would Worcester MA be too far for you? If you live near Claremont, New Hampshire it is about a 2 1/2 hour ride and what I consider the reasonable distance you might not. I will let you know if I see something come available in the next few weeks.

I've driven further for less...the long-drive-for-junk is a fun activity. Overall I don't disagree with your point, but I have yet to see the parts I need. I've seen a couple of the wrong ones, and one without any shafts. I'm hoping to spend some time with it soon, but perhaps not before the 6" we are expecting on Saturday. I don't think it should be too bad overall.

Don

 

[dschad]

Hi all,

Got this done just before the snow last weekend...so I was able to try it out. Only 4", but a good practice run. Overall the construction is pretty simple, and it seems to work fine:


It is 5/16 plate on both ends, with 3x2 pipe (3/16" wall) as the standoffs. The plate is longer by 1 1/2" than the bumper is tall, with a bolt-on bracket to clamp it from behind and prevent up-lift when you stand the tractor on the flipper. The 3" is required to both give the plow frame enough room to clear the mower deck brackets, as well as to provide ample room for the pto shaft installation.

So far everything seems to work fine, but the overall length is going to be at least 3" longer than the proper mount. Removal of both items is pretty quick and easy.



I was going to monkey around with attaching it to the frame rails and/or mower mount points, and I still may, but I don't think that is necessary. Everything is stable, not much flex. If I were to mount a plow blade, or if I decide to use the snow blower as a battering ram, I will add a bracket for lower support to help work against the twist. It seems like the front of the frame bumper wouldn't like that type of abuse as it stands.

Lots of options, but it isn't too bad, and/or interesting really. But it does work.

Don

 

[kubotasam]

Looks good what you have done. I would suggest that you fabricate a rear mount for the back of the subframe. By your pictures it would be easy to do.

 

[dschad]

Looks good what you have done. I would suggest that you fabricate a rear mount for the back of the subframe. By your pictures it would be easy to do.

I'm considering it - that was definitely on my initial plan, but I'm not really sure it is necessary. It certainly looks like it is necessary, given how far out the thing is cantilevered, but it is really supported quite well by the front bumper.

But, as you indicate, it wouldn't be too much work, so perhaps for some peace of mind.

 

[dschad]

I'm considering it - that was definitely on my initial plan, but I'm not really sure it is necessary. It certainly looks like it is necessary, given how far out the thing is cantilevered, but it is really supported quite well by the front bumper.

But, as you indicate, it wouldn't be too much work, so perhaps for some peace of mind.

Changing my mind on this....it is definitely necessary to have a pinned connection which can't come loose. Not so much for support, but it keep it from moving - utilizing the hand-cranked T-bolt to fix the frame to the tractor is not sufficient.

Cleaning up after a bit of an icy snow storm, the frame on mine popped off my mount. I was chewing away at some frozen/crusty deposits from the town snow-plow at the end of the drive, and the clamping/T-bolt had loosened. As I moved forward into the icy mess, some of the solid ice at the bottom was lifting the unit up, such that it came off the upper lip when I backed up.

So maybe two more things - pins which will make it such that it can't slide forward, even if it does lift up, and maybe something to fix the thumb-screw bolt to prevent it from turning.

Alternatively, just don't back up.