Hydraulic operated dump trailer

[sandman537]

I'm considering purchasing a King Kutter dump trailer from RK. It is hand operated (hydraulic jack), and also has two hydraulic hose connections. I have a BX23 with hose connections at the rear of the tractor for the backhoe. Will these connections work on the trailer without some kind of inline valve? All of the controls are on the backhoe itself, not on the tractor. I didn't know if the release valve on the hand operated jack would work in this application or not.

 

[Russell King]

I think you would have to have a rear valve to control the hydraulic flow to the trailer.

It would be easy to install a valve using the backhoe hoses.

Search for rear remote valves and top and tilt cylinders for the three point hitch and see what you find.

I am not sure that the existing cylinder on the trailer will work but it would probably be easy to replace that cylinder and King Kutter probably offers one.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

You'll need to add plumbing(could be 'interesting'...aka $$$$ )..
3rd option is to add a 'power pack'(electric motor/pump/tank) . About a $600 CDN buy/install yourself
Does the mfr provide it as an option ???

Also I assume this is a SMALL dump trailer ! BX23 can only PULL so much......and think about STOPPING ! Trailer should have ebrakes/ hbrakes.

 

[PaulL]

Usually those trailers will run with a standard set of rear outlets. The backhoe outlets aren't suitable as they have no valves, and the trailer won't be set up with a valve of its own, because the aim is that you can sit on the tractor and dump it.

Just get a set of rear valves (at least one, but if you're doing it probably makes sense to get two). And perhaps take the trailer in (with the tractor on it?) and check with your dealer that everything is as expected - sometimes the fittings don't match our you need a specific sort of valve.

Agree on the towing/stopping. A BX can start a lot more weight moving than it can stop again at the other end, particularly on any kind of slope. Fine on the flat, scary otherwise.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

OK, got real curious....found this.
found them at EA and trailer's rated for 1.5 tons(small car weight ??), has nominal 4x6 box on it, tandem wheels on walking beam but no brakes and $3000 US. That's an eye opener price.

then found this...

King Kutter. 1.5-DT-XB Parts Diagram

1.5-DT-XB Parts Diagram

www.kingkutter.com

they price the handpump at $660,US$ so you 'swap' to a power pack for same price.

hmm..any idea how many pumps to fully raise ? if only a couple dozen, it's not that bad and you have to get off anyway to open the rear gate

 

[PaulL]

OK, got real curious....found this.
found them at EA and trailer's rated for 1.5 tons(small car weight ??), has nominal 4x6 box on it, tandem wheels on walking beam but no brakes and $3000 US. That's an eye opener price.

then found this...

King Kutter. 1.5-DT-XB Parts Diagram

1.5-DT-XB Parts Diagram

www.kingkutter.com

they price the handpump at $660,US$ so you 'swap' to a power pack for same price.

hmm..any idea how many pumps to fully raise ? if only a couple dozen, it's not that bad and you have to get off anyway to open the rear gate

Mum's trailer (used to be Dad's until he passed) is bigger than that. But it's a right bear to pump by hand, and Mum sold the big tractor that used to drive the hydraulics, so it goes on the old Massey TEA. A full trailer of dirt gets old pretty quickly. A set of rear remotes isn't cheap, but it's valuable for other things beyond simply running a trailer. I'd do that rather than something specific to the trailer....unless you also pull the trailer with other machines that don't have hydraulics (maybe tow with the truck and fill with the tractor....)

 

[MOOTS]

That trailer is hydraulic power up and gravity down. The cylinder wouldn’t work even if you had everything plumbed correctly and a valve to operate it.

Not saying you couldn’t change the cylinder and add a valve that would allow you to hook to the BH connections, it can be done.

Edit, I see the cylinder is simply plugged. It could be made to power up and down.

 

[DeepWoods]

I have had the King Kutter dump trailer for about a year and a half. It takes 31 pumps of the handle to fully raise the box. The hand pump lasted about 8 months before I decided to upgrade to a 12v battery operated pump.

I also use a tag axle, as the suspension of the ATV can’t handle the rated load of the dump trailer. I have no problems with the ATV/Dump trailer combo UNLESS I am carrying a full load of dirt in the dump trailer, and then I do not have adequate breaking power on the ATV.

I use a pendant connected remote that I run to the back of the ATV, so all I do to dump a load is push the up button. Way better than having to get off and hand pump the original manual pump. I purchased the 12v unit from Amazon and with the battery and the aluminum box to put it all in, I was another $500. to make the upgrade. One of the best $500 I’ve spent. I would have bought it with the 12v hydraulic unit already installed, but that’s not an option.

The best part is I can haul it behind anything with a 2” ball. Not just limited to my tractor as it is now self contained. I also added the stake pockets on the sides to extend the sides with some self made wood extensions for when I’m hauling wood chips. Yes its a big investment, but it is one of my better purchases.

 

[Trimley]

I have had the King Kutter dump trailer for about a year and a half. It takes 31 pumps of the handle to fully raise the box. The hand pump lasted about 8 months before I decided to upgrade to a 12v battery operated pump.

I also use a tag axle, as the suspension of the ATV can’t handle the rated load of the dump trailer. I have no problems with the ATV/Dump trailer combo UNLESS I am carrying a full load of dirt in the dump trailer, and then I do not have adequate breaking power on the ATV.

I use a pendant connected remote that I run to the back of the ATV, so all I do to dump a load is push the up button. Way better than having to get off and hand pump the original manual pump. I purchased the 12v unit from Amazon and with the battery and the aluminum box to put it all in, I was another $500. to make the upgrade. One of the best $500 I’ve spent. I would have bought it with the 12v hydraulic unit already installed, but that’s not an option.

The best part is I can haul it behind anything with a 2” ball. Not just limited to my tractor as it is now self contained. I also added the stake pockets on the sides to extend the sides with some self made wood extensions for when I’m hauling wood chips. Yes its a big investment, but it is one of my better purchases. View attachment 113967 View attachment 113968 View attachment 113969

I want a hydraulic dump trailer. I've seen some NICE ones out there, but the prices are pretty steep. Tandem articulated with stands, so you can unhook, load, then connect and haul would be real nice.

I've kinda had a plan to make (modify) one, out of a Triton Aluminum 2-Place Snomobile Trailer. I'd have to narrow to about 50". I've had the plan for a few years, and have been collecting structural and extruded aluminum pieces when I find good deals. I plan to make the deck, sidewalls and gate all (the whole trailer) aluminum except the axles and the 2" coupler. The key to it all happening, is finding someone to put the puzzle together for me as a side job.

 

[PaulL]

That trailer is hydraulic power up and gravity down. The cylinder wouldn’t work even if you had everything plumbed correctly and a valve to operate it.

Not saying you couldn’t change the cylinder and add a valve that would allow you to hook to the BH connections, it can be done.

Edit, I see the cylinder is simply plugged. It could be made to power up and down.

The one on Mum's trailer is one way. You pump it up, then let the pressure off and it runs back into the reservoir. It worked on Dad's big tractor, and I feel like there's only one outlet feeding it, so it must drain back the way it came in I think.