How to get faster heat?

[sheepfarmer]

Right now, doing snow cleanup with a back blade and front loader.

I'm setting my base idle to about 1000-1200, but I use the "idle up" button on the loader stick if I need more.

SideCarFlip, there's no issue with using a hydrostatic trans at full throttle. The pedal pressure modulates everything and there is no shock. Most HST tractors don't have a linked pedal or foot throttle...you set your hand throttle to 540 PTO speed and use the HST pedal exclusively from zero to top speed.

I do have auto-throttle engaged, really like using it. Anti-Stall is engaged too, but we all know how useful that feature is

Actually my anti stall works fine, never stalled the tractor, and can hear it increase rpm if I dive into the manure pile too enthusiastically, and I have never bothered to use the idle up button on the loader valve, so there are obviously a bunch of configurations that work. I remember you said yours didn't work, and have been meaning to look at my settings. Dealer made some suggestions and I just left them that way.

 

[troverman]

It is 10F here. Tractor started fine. This time I removed auto throttle and set RPM to about 1600. Tractor had heat in less than 10 minutes. After 30 minutes of operating like this, gauge is about a quarter of the way up and cab is warm. I think my problem was using Auto Throttle with too low a base idle.

Thanks for all the tips. Heated seat pad works great too!

 

[JerryMT]

I've noticed it takes quite a long time for my new L4060 to come up to temp and start blowing heat inside. What is the best way to get heat quicker? I'm assuming in the winter I could put cardboard in front of the radiator, or half block the radiator?

I notice the engine fan does not have a clutch, which means it is constantly cooling the engine. Does anyone offer a viscous fan clutch that would fit these Kubotas? Seems dumb not to have a fan clutch.

What you have to understand about a diesel is that it is different than the Spark Ignition(SI) engine in your car. The SI engines run in a very narrow range of fuel/air ratio ad that means the peak combustion temperature is always very high and nearly constant. A compression ignition engine(CI) like a diesel runs with widely varying fuel/air ratio so it's peak cycle temperature varies depending on load. So idling the CI engine means you are running it at the lowest temperature and it will take a long time to warm up and you waste fuel.. Most manufacturers recommend you idle for a few minutes and then put the engine under moderate load and let it come up to operating temperature before putting it under maximum load. I don't know about you but max load operation is not anything I operate under very often especially in winter.

On thing that helps the warm up process is a block heater. Cold weather start up is a diesel's "Achilles heel". The peak compression temperature is low, starting torque requirements are high, battery output is low and fuel ignition is difficult due to the deactivating effect of the cold cylinder wall. The block heater warms the combustion chamber to assist initial combustion. It also warms the oil somewhat to reduce the required starter torque. The engine coolant temperature raises so engine warm up is quicker. There's also the advantage of reduces wear and tear on the engine lower end and starter.

Blocking the radiator is another aid to quicker warmup but you have to get started first and block heaters are the most cost effective way I know to make a diesel start easily in cold weather. I run block heaters on all our tractors. Two hours of heat and the engines start like they do in the summer.

 

[troverman]

What you have to understand about a diesel is that it is different than the Spark Ignition(SI) engine in your car. The SI engines run in a very narrow range of fuel/air ratio ad that means the peak combustion temperature is always very high and nearly constant. A compression ignition engine(CI) like a diesel runs with widely varying fuel/air ratio so it's peak cycle temperature varies depending on load. So idling the CI engine means you are running it at the lowest temperature and it will take a long time to warm up and you waste fuel.. Most manufacturers recommend you idle for a few minutes and then put the engine under moderate load and let it come up to operating temperature before putting it under maximum load. I don't know about you but max load operation is not anything I operate under very often especially in winter.

On thing that helps the warm up process is a block heater. Cold weather start up is a diesel's "Achilles heel". The peak compression temperature is low, starting torque requirements are high, battery output is low and fuel ignition is difficult due to the deactivating effect of the cold cylinder wall. The block heater warms the combustion chamber to assist initial combustion. It also warms the oil somewhat to reduce the required starter torque. The engine coolant temperature raises so engine warm up is quicker. There's also the advantage of reduces wear and tear on the engine lower end and starter.

Blocking the radiator is another aid to quicker warmup but you have to get started first and block heaters are the most cost effective way I know to make a diesel start easily in cold weather. I run block heaters on all our tractors. Two hours of heat and the engines start like they do in the summer.

Thanks for the info. I'm pretty well versed on diesel having owned six diesel pickups over the years including my current truck, plus quite a few tractors. I guess I'm a little disappointed these modern common rail direct injected Kubotas don't have an automatic idle up feature like most new diesel road vehicles. I also wish the fan would have a clutch on it; seems pretty shortsighted to have an engine installed in a vehicle with a cab and a DPF where cold engine temps are particularly undesirable, and not include a fan clutch and an automatic high idle.

 

[Ammobeetle]

A diesel can run cold, should be running 2/2.5k RPM to get it at the temp and reduce emission issues. Run it at low idle to get everything flowing then throttle up to get heat and warm up, it's a Diesel work it!

Rob

 

[troverman]

Just noticed this...wonder if there is a connection:

 

[rjcorazza]

As long as the engine is cold, AND the radiator is full that is not currently a problem. I would get the level up to the lower mark when cold though.


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[troverman]

Not fully warmed up but it was that way after about 10 minutes of use. I’ve seen new tractors get a coolant air lock when the dealer tops them, and they end up not being full.

I’ll check the rad when cold.