I'll see if such a fuse exists, but there is no switch to turn on. Maybe it automatically turns on when heat is selected and the fan switch is turned on. Here's a picture of my climate controls:
How to get faster heat?
- Thread starter troverman
- Start date
Just a blank where the switch for rear defrost would be if my tractor was so equipped...
Its always interesting to read about these issues from some of you folks who deal with extreme cold. Im down here in Florida. The coldest weather I will ever crank my tractor up in is maybe in the 30's, and typically if its that cold I wont be outside working. More realistic winter working temps are maybe 50-65 degrees.
Something I am curios about was the talk about the thermostat gauge. I have always noticed on my L2501 my temperature gauge never goes to the mid point. If a straight horizontal needle is 50%, Id say mine seems to top out around 35% on the temperature gauge. This is even in 80 degree temps and running it for 2 hours doing work. I never thought much of it. Is that normal? Should the temp gauge be higher? Ive never seen it hit 50%.
Something I am curios about was the talk about the thermostat gauge. I have always noticed on my L2501 my temperature gauge never goes to the mid point. If a straight horizontal needle is 50%, Id say mine seems to top out around 35% on the temperature gauge. This is even in 80 degree temps and running it for 2 hours doing work. I never thought much of it. Is that normal? Should the temp gauge be higher? Ive never seen it hit 50%.
Hey Tornado, as you know I had an L2501 that got traded in part for this tractor I have now.
Mine never got to 50% either under normal conditions. Nor did my L4310 or my B2920. They always stayed in the range you mention. This is normal. While mowing in a filed with a lot of grass pollen and chaff, then I'd see the temp climb as the radiator screen and grilled became plugged.
The common rail tractors such as my MX4800 or this L4060 will eventually come up to about half way. It's more important for temperature to be hotter because they are equipped with a DPF and the DPF clogs up quicker with colder exhaust temps.
I did not realize you traded the L2501. You got yours around the same time I got mine I think. That was a quick trade in! Appreciate the info though. Good to know thats normal for it to stay on the low end of the temp gauge.
I really loved the L2501 - I'd buy another. I just needed a cab tractor and couldn't afford to keep the L2501 in addition to the 4060.
Is that a recent picture of your climate control panel, as in today or yesterday? Noticed temp switch is all way to warm. If it is your A/C lighted push switch is lit meaning A/C is on. Push switch and it will go off, light off and A/C off. Could this be why it is taking so long to heat?
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Troverman, the needed warm up time you describe is a bit unusual. Sounds like something is not right. Before you start modifying the system, I would recommend going over the operators manual and double checking the directions for your cab system, then going to the wsm and its troubleshooting sections, and then call the dealer. At 14 hours it is still under warranty, and it may be something simple.
My open station L3560 reaches operating temp much faster than that, more like 10 min, and my cabbed B2650 also puts out heat much sooner. Granted I am generally bundled up just to get from house to barn, but I start to shed gloves and hat pretty fast in the 2650.
My open station L3560 reaches operating temp much faster than that, more like 10 min, and my cabbed B2650 also puts out heat much sooner. Granted I am generally bundled up just to get from house to barn, but I start to shed gloves and hat pretty fast in the 2650.
That's not the problem, if it's operating correctly. I run my AC with the heat control turned up in the winter for removing moisture from the cab.
The cab specific manual does mention that operating with the recirculate switch"on" will warm the cab up faster.
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I plan to use the tractor when I get home tonight. The temp is currently 15F so it will be a few degrees colder later.
I'll time how long it takes for the temp gauge to come up, for heat to start coming out, etc. I'll try to take some pics of the dash so you guys can see the clock and temp gauge.
The A/C button shouldn't have any affect on the temp with the control all the way to the hot side, other than perhaps dehumidifying the air if the A/C compressor kicks on (which it won't at these temps). It was on when I bought the tractor new and have just not shut it off. Never used recirculating either.
I'll time how long it takes for the temp gauge to come up, for heat to start coming out, etc. I'll try to take some pics of the dash so you guys can see the clock and temp gauge.
The A/C button shouldn't have any affect on the temp with the control all the way to the hot side, other than perhaps dehumidifying the air if the A/C compressor kicks on (which it won't at these temps). It was on when I bought the tractor new and have just not shut it off. Never used recirculating either.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
I don't know about tractor HVAC systems but in my truck, putting the controls to 'A/C , hot' does result in faster cabin heat. When in A/C mode the air is recirculated. If in 'heat' mode , fresh air from outside comes in.
Try depressing it and turning it off then. I never have mine on when it's cold out.
The tractor HVAC system is extremely similar to a car or truck HVAC system. You can have recirculated air with or without A/C, just like in a car.
Fine, I'll try it.
The real problem here is the tractor's coolant. It takes forever for the coolant temp gauge to come off the cold stop, and it doesn't come up much. Even after plowing for an hour, it won't be at half way.
You guys getting lots of heat, how are you controlling the throttle? Once started, I set the hand throttle to about 1000RPM, maybe 1200RPM. Then I use the linked throttle to give me whatever additional throttle I need.
Perhaps you guys are running with a much higher throttle speed which helps make heat?
I'm here to tell you that running above the base idle speed with your Hydrostat probably isn't a good idea (though I don't know that for sure as I don't have one, just don't sound kosher to me)
I run mine at base idle speed (900 rpm) in the case of my M9 cab when plowing / blowing snow and my temp gauge never climbs more than 1/4 the way up but I have plenty of heat all the time (once the motor warms up). In fact, in the summer when I'm haying with the ac on. if the temp gauge gets near the halfway mark I know my rad screen is getting plugged with chaff and it's time to clean it.
I think that 'between cold and midway up' is a Kubota trait myself. Both my M's exhibit the same tendency and so did my 105X, which was a cab with ac as well.
I never raise the base idle speed above the set lower limit but then I have gear drive wet clutched tractors so I want to engage the road speed gears at the lowest possible rpm for wear reasons. Maybe with a hydro it don't matter not sure, Maybe someone else can clairify that.
I would think that engaging the hydrostat above base idle would cause a shock load but again, I don't know not having that transmission.
Something isn't hunky dory with your cooling system. I never had the heat issues you have with my sold 105 or my M9000 cab. If I let my M9 sit and warm up in the unheated, no electricity barn and have a hot coffee, by the time I drink my joe and go back, the cab is always toasty. I do idle the motor up with the hand throttle to about 1200 when warming it up prior to moving it in the winter.
I run mine at base idle speed (900 rpm) in the case of my M9 cab when plowing / blowing snow and my temp gauge never climbs more than 1/4 the way up but I have plenty of heat all the time (once the motor warms up). In fact, in the summer when I'm haying with the ac on. if the temp gauge gets near the halfway mark I know my rad screen is getting plugged with chaff and it's time to clean it.
I think that 'between cold and midway up' is a Kubota trait myself. Both my M's exhibit the same tendency and so did my 105X, which was a cab with ac as well.
I never raise the base idle speed above the set lower limit but then I have gear drive wet clutched tractors so I want to engage the road speed gears at the lowest possible rpm for wear reasons. Maybe with a hydro it don't matter not sure, Maybe someone else can clairify that.
I would think that engaging the hydrostat above base idle would cause a shock load but again, I don't know not having that transmission.
Something isn't hunky dory with your cooling system. I never had the heat issues you have with my sold 105 or my M9000 cab. If I let my M9 sit and warm up in the unheated, no electricity barn and have a hot coffee, by the time I drink my joe and go back, the cab is always toasty. I do idle the motor up with the hand throttle to about 1200 when warming it up prior to moving it in the winter.
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I missed it if you said what you are doing with it? Back blade pulling snow, front end loader? Are you using autothrottle? I usually set lower limit at more than dead idle, more like 1500rpm for comfortable FEL work for me, kind of depends. I don't like clanging my bucket.
Right now, doing snow cleanup with a back blade and front loader.
I'm setting my base idle to about 1000-1200, but I use the "idle up" button on the loader stick if I need more.
SideCarFlip, there's no issue with using a hydrostatic trans at full throttle. The pedal pressure modulates everything and there is no shock. Most HST tractors don't have a linked pedal or foot throttle...you set your hand throttle to 540 PTO speed and use the HST pedal exclusively from zero to top speed.
I do have auto-throttle engaged, really like using it. Anti-Stall is engaged too, but we all know how useful that feature is
I'm setting my base idle to about 1000-1200, but I use the "idle up" button on the loader stick if I need more.
SideCarFlip, there's no issue with using a hydrostatic trans at full throttle. The pedal pressure modulates everything and there is no shock. Most HST tractors don't have a linked pedal or foot throttle...you set your hand throttle to 540 PTO speed and use the HST pedal exclusively from zero to top speed.
I do have auto-throttle engaged, really like using it. Anti-Stall is engaged too, but we all know how useful that feature is
Uhmm. I don't have hard numbers but the coolant gauge on my L4060 doesn't report different in the winter than in summer. It may take ever so slightly longer to come up to Temp, but certainly WELL before an hour of use. I generally idle at 1500 rpm, and use the auto throttle advance for anything higher.
I think you are on the right track with cooling system issues. Perhaps starting with the basics... Coolant level in radiator, confirm thermostat working, fan belt tension, etc...
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