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- Thread starter felhen
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Bmyers
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
Grand L3560 with LA805 loader, EA 55" Wicked Grapple, SBX72 BB, LP 1272 mower
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
yup... loose belt is my 1st guess..
a 'bad' regulator shouldn't charge due to increased RPMs
battery could be going 'bad'.
Without knowing the internals of the regulator, it's not easy to diagnose IF the regulator IS going 'bad' however since the light does go out, that suggests it IS working.
a 'bad' regulator shouldn't charge due to increased RPMs
battery could be going 'bad'.
Without knowing the internals of the regulator, it's not easy to diagnose IF the regulator IS going 'bad' however since the light does go out, that suggests it IS working.
If belt tension is ok,
1-battery terminals or wires corroded?
2-you might try swapping a battery - car battery for example and see what happens.
1-battery terminals or wires corroded?
2-you might try swapping a battery - car battery for example and see what happens.
If your Kubota uses gas, then you have a bigger problem than the battery light
johnjk
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
B3200 w/loader, Woods RC5 brush hog, 4' box blade, tooth bar, B1700 MMM,
how old is the battery? Have you gotten it checked? Check power at battery powered off, at idle and at higher rpm. See if you are getting charging voltage to the battery.
That's what I was going to say, "Better step on the diesel". If all suggestions don't get you to the solution it might be easy to set up a mechanical gauge to see what the pressure actually is.
The common places to look for causes of the alternator light illuminating would be:
1) idle set too low
2) worn alternator belt causing slippage
3) belt is loose causing slippage
4) high resistance in the battery cables, clean and/or replace depending on condition.
5) poor ground refers to #4 for remedy.
6) alternator pulley is worn and the belt isn't riding on the sides of the pulley, but on the bottom of the pulley, but this is an extremely rare occasion.
If none of the above resolve your problem, remove the bulb, and the problem is solved. If the alternator fails, you will know about it when the battery goes dead.
1) idle set too low
2) worn alternator belt causing slippage
3) belt is loose causing slippage
4) high resistance in the battery cables, clean and/or replace depending on condition.
5) poor ground refers to #4 for remedy.
6) alternator pulley is worn and the belt isn't riding on the sides of the pulley, but on the bottom of the pulley, but this is an extremely rare occasion.
If none of the above resolve your problem, remove the bulb, and the problem is solved. If the alternator fails, you will know about it when the battery goes dead.
Would black tape over the indicator work as well as pulling the bulb. I know it might be easier to do(-;
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Amazing to me how many cars I’ve seen with black electrical tape over the check engine light. Out of sight, out of mind.
A slipping belt sounds like the most likely culprit and not a hard one to fix.
David Page
Active member
Equipment
1974 L260, 6" bush hog, subsoiler, spring tooth harrow, boom pole, 2 bottom plow
Yes, I thought battery terminals are cheap to check off the list. Just a film sometimes forms and is just enough to slow it down on charging.
I use this product on auto, motorcycle and my L35 and never have corrosion issues.
Check it out!
no.co
Check it out!
NOCO - Corrosion Preventative
A premium oil-based preventative that’s guaranteed to stop battery corrosion for the life of your battery. Its viscous compound never dries or evaporates providing an anti-corrosion guard from corrosion causing battery acid.
no.co