G5200

Smokeless

Member

Equipment
3901/Loader/Rear Blade/Box Blade/LP Mower/Pallet forks IH M,,Cub & sickle mower
Feb 5, 2018
237
9
18
Southern Illinois
Just inherited my Dads Kubota G 5200 3 cylinder diesel Lots of hours (3600) but it runs well. Dad mowed a large lawn, but I only have a small area to do and I cant see selling it for $500 or $600 dollars. It does have a transmission oil seal leaking by the rear axle, but it is ever so slight. Dunno whats involved replacing that.
Anyway I would like to learn more about the glo plug operation and the wiring diagram overall. Any help would be appreciated, thanks
 

BruceP

Well-known member

Equipment
G5200H
Aug 7, 2016
835
353
63
Richmond, Vermont, USA
I have G5200 - do you have some specific questions?

BTW: there is owners-manual online somewhere, I printed it out and put into 3-ring binder. (complete with proper cover) There is wiring diagram in the manual.

The mowdeck has a separate owners-manual (also online)

Here is link to Kubota parts diagrams simply search "G5200" . ==> https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/
 
Last edited:

Dave_eng

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
5,108
926
113
Williamstown Ontario Canada
There is an Operators manual on Kubotabooks.com which contains a wiring diagram. Use the link below to get to the right page and then look for G3200,4200,5200 & 6200 tractors

G series

The glow plugs are brought into operation by using the preheat function which causes the Glow indicator to start to get red after some seconds.

When the key switch is turned to the START position power is again sent to the GP's but this time the glow indicator is bypassed because the starter is drawing down the voltage being sent to the GP's

The wiring diagram is provided below.

Dave
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

Smokeless

Member

Equipment
3901/Loader/Rear Blade/Box Blade/LP Mower/Pallet forks IH M,,Cub & sickle mower
Feb 5, 2018
237
9
18
Southern Illinois
There is an Operators manual on Kubotabooks.com which contains a wiring diagram. Use the link below to get to the right page and then look for G3200,4200,5200 & 6200 tractors

G series

The glow plugs are brought into operation by using the preheat function which causes the Glow indicator to start to get red after some seconds.

When the key switch is turned to the START position power is again sent to the GP's but this time the glow indicator is bypassed because the starter is drawing down the voltage being sent to the GP's

The wiring diagram is provided below.

Dave
well thats a ton of help, thanks. I see two glo plugs and I have three but no problem, just one more down the line. Appears straight fwd.

Any idea why a fusible link versus an old fashion fuse?
 

Dave_eng

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
5,108
926
113
Williamstown Ontario Canada
well thats a ton of help, thanks. I see two glo plugs and I have three but no problem, just one more down the line. Appears straight fwd.

Any idea why a fusible link versus an old fashion fuse?
The issue with circuits needing large amperage fuse protection is to have the fuse burn out soon enough to avoid wiring damage but to not burn out in the face of a brief overload.

Fuse technology has improved since the design of the G series machines and now you would find "Slo-Blow" fuses in use to meet the above described requirements.

Fusible links were the answer to these requirements in earlier times. A special wire insulation was used which would remain in place after the internal wire burnt through. This was to avoid bare wire ends continuing to short out after the link blew.

Both fusible links and Slo--Blow fuses use color to help designate their rated amperage's.

Using a normal fuse in place of a fusible link or Slo-Blow fuse will result in an unreliable machine.

The numerical info on the fusible link insulation is the cross sectional area of the internal wire in sq milometers which is a direct correlation to its ampacity.

Fusible link wire info.jpg


Fusible link color and current rating.jpg


Dave
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

BruceP

Well-known member

Equipment
G5200H
Aug 7, 2016
835
353
63
Richmond, Vermont, USA
.... I see two glo plugs and I have three ......
The manual covers G4200, G5200, and G6200.

The engine in the G4200 has 2 cylinders (Hence, 2 glowplugs)

You are correct to assume it is no big deal to extrapolate into a 3rd glowplug.

I beleive the only other difference in the glowplug circuit is the indicator. Since the indicator is actually a short section of glowing tungston wire, as the number of glowplugs changes, the indicator has a different resistance to compensate.
 
Last edited:

Smokeless

Member

Equipment
3901/Loader/Rear Blade/Box Blade/LP Mower/Pallet forks IH M,,Cub & sickle mower
Feb 5, 2018
237
9
18
Southern Illinois
The manual covers G4200, G5200, and G6200.

The engine in the G4200 has 2 cylinders (Hence, 2 glowplugs)

You are correct to assume it is no big deal to extrapolate into a 3rd glowplug.

I beleive the only other difference in the glowplug circuit is the indicator. Since the indicator is actually a short section of glowing tungston wire, as the number of glowplugs changes, the indicator has a different resistance to compensate.
Makes perfect sense, thank you
 

Smokeless

Member

Equipment
3901/Loader/Rear Blade/Box Blade/LP Mower/Pallet forks IH M,,Cub & sickle mower
Feb 5, 2018
237
9
18
Southern Illinois
The issue with circuits needing large amperage fuse protection is to have the fuse burn out soon enough to avoid wiring damage but to not burn out in the face of a brief overload.

Fuse technology has improved since the design of the G series machines and now you would find "Slo-Blow" fuses in use to meet the above described requirements.

Fusible links were the answer to these requirements in earlier times. A special wire insulation was used which would remain in place after the internal wire burnt through. This was to avoid bare wire ends continuing to short out after the link blew.

Both fusible links and Slo--Blow fuses use color to help designate their rated amperage's.

Using a normal fuse in place of a fusible link or Slo-Blow fuse will result in an unreliable machine.

The numerical info on the fusible link insulation is the cross sectional area of the internal wire in sq milometers which is a direct correlation to its ampacity.

View attachment 53702

View attachment 53703

Dave
All I ever wanted to know about fusible links, wonderful post.

Well, i believe we will try and obtain fusible material (or maybe a slow blow fuse) to replace the circuit breaker. I really want to get to the heart of the issue why the link burned out to start with. You have my gratitude sir, thank you
 
Last edited:

BruceP

Well-known member

Equipment
G5200H
Aug 7, 2016
835
353
63
Richmond, Vermont, USA
Well, i believe we will try and obtain fusible material (or maybe a slow blow fuse) to replace the circuit breaker. I really want to get to the heart of the issue why the link burned out to start with.
So..... now we get to the root of your questions. (The fusable link burned up)

To troubleshoot such an issue, EXPECT to draw excessive current until you isolate the problem.

I have been reading schematics for over 40 years and memorized the schematic on my G5200 years ago. It is obvious that much of the circuitry is protected by a 10A fuse. This reduces your possible issue to regulator -or- starting circuit. (The glowplugs are generally protected by the indicator which limits the current)

You may also have a wire which is chafing on the frame somewhere.

If I were you, I would start by wiring in a large 12v lightbulb where the fusable link should be. (I would use a car headlight bulb) In this way, if there is still a short to ground, the bulb would come on full brightness and prevent frying something.
Wiggle, juggle and tug on the wiring while watching the bulb. Do this with keyswitch OFF and ON. (When you try to glow, expect the bulb to come on ALMOST full brightness.)

Once you are satisfied there is no direct shorts to ground. Try something like a 30-50 amp fuse inplace of the fusable link. The main goal here is to provide protection so the battery cannot fry the electrical system if there is a direct short to ground.

BTW: I purchased my G5200 used and it ALREADY has a fuse inplace of the fusable link. (I do not recall the amps value)
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

Smokeless

Member

Equipment
3901/Loader/Rear Blade/Box Blade/LP Mower/Pallet forks IH M,,Cub & sickle mower
Feb 5, 2018
237
9
18
Southern Illinois
So..... now we get to the root of your questions. (The fusable link burned up)

To troubleshoot such an issue, EXPECT to draw excessive current until you isolate the problem.

I have been reading schematics for over 40 years and memorized the schematic on my G5200 years ago. It is obvious that much of the circuitry is protected by a 10A fuse. This reduces your possible issue to regulator -or- starting circuit. (The glowplugs are generally protected by the indicator which limits the current)

You may also have a wire which is chafing on the frame somewhere.

If I were you, I would start by wiring in a large 12 lightbulb where the fusable link should be. (I would use a car headlight bulb) In this way, if there is still a short to ground, the bulb would come on full brightness and prevent frying something.
Wiggle, juggle and tug on the wiring while watching the bulb. Do this with keyswitch OFF and ON. (When you try to glow, expect the bulb to come on ALMOST full brightness.)

Once you are satisfied there is no direct shorts to ground. Try something like a 30-50 amp fuse inplace of the fusable link. The main goal here is to provide protection so the battery cannot fry the electrical system if there is a direct short to ground.

BTW: I purchased my G5200 used and it ALREADY has a fuse inplace of the fusable link. (I do not recall the amps value)
Thank you, Little background. The mower has been maintained by a Kubota mechanic from a local lawn and garden shop. Last summer I was mowing and the link fried. Circuit breaker since installed and all is well. Now the mower is mine and I want to learn all I can. My thrust was to understand the wiring and mower. Glo plugs seem straight forward and I see the circuits that potentially could affect the link.

Your post is well received and welcome. I would have never thought about a headlamp. I am an old communication tech (very old) and I typically hunt and peck with an Ohm meter. I do think you are correct, its worth the time to check the wiring very close. 3600 hours is a bunch and the age is against it as well. But I like it and want to keep it going.

I still need to educate myself on the transmission seal around the axle and see what it entails. Very slight leak and may be best just to keep replacing the lost oil
 

BruceP

Well-known member

Equipment
G5200H
Aug 7, 2016
835
353
63
Richmond, Vermont, USA
I still need to educate myself on the transmission seal around the axle and see what it entails. Very slight leak and may be best just to keep replacing the lost oil
I just visited the online Kubota parts list. ( https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/ ) searched for G5200 and reviewed the diagram for "T06000 REAR AXLE". It appears the P/N for the seal is 09503-55511.

Unfortunately, it appears to replace that seal, one has to:
1) Drain hydro fluid (easier to do with wheels removed)
2) open the rear-end (differential case) to access a 'clip' holding the axle-half into the differential
3) Slide the axle-half out of the rear end

I fear that getting into the differential may be the biggest part of this job. There appears to be a bunch of bolts to remove surrounding where the axle-half goes into the differential-case. (per side) There may be some gaskets to replace during reassembly.

If I had to estamate the job... I would say less that $20 for the parts and under 4 hours of labor. (I take my time because I do not wish to make 'work' out of it)

I encourage you to look at the parts-diagram yourself to see what I mean.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

Smokeless

Member

Equipment
3901/Loader/Rear Blade/Box Blade/LP Mower/Pallet forks IH M,,Cub & sickle mower
Feb 5, 2018
237
9
18
Southern Illinois
I just visited the online Kubota parts list. ( https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/ ) searched for G5200 and reviewed the diagram for "T06000 REAR AXLE". It appears the P/N for the seal is 09503-55511.

Unfortunately, it appears to replace that seal, one has to:
1) Drain hydro fluid (easier to do with wheels removed)
2) open the rear-end (differential case) to access a 'clip' holding the axle-half into the differential
3) Slide the axle-half out of the rear end

I fear that getting into the differential may be the biggest part of this job. There appears to be a bunch of bolts to remove surrounding where the axle-half goes into the differential-case. (per side) There may be some gaskets to replace during reassembly.

If I had to estamate the job... I would say less that $20 for the parts and under 4 hours of labor. (I take my time because I do not wish to make 'work' out of it)

I encourage you to look at the parts-diagram yourself to see what I mean.
Well, that sounds a little more than what I may take on. Believe I will wait till i get tractor home and have the Kubota dealer there give me an estimate, IF it gets worse. At present, one can keep up with it by checking and filling the oil. I will however go to the www site (now) and have a read. Thanks again for taking the time to post, all this helps my education with the machine.
 

Smokeless

Member

Equipment
3901/Loader/Rear Blade/Box Blade/LP Mower/Pallet forks IH M,,Cub & sickle mower
Feb 5, 2018
237
9
18
Southern Illinois
I just visited the online Kubota parts list. ( https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/ ) searched for G5200 and reviewed the diagram for "T06000 REAR AXLE". It appears the P/N for the seal is 09503-55511.

Unfortunately, it appears to replace that seal, one has to:
1) Drain hydro fluid (easier to do with wheels removed)
2) open the rear-end (differential case) to access a 'clip' holding the axle-half into the differential
3) Slide the axle-half out of the rear end

I fear that getting into the differential may be the biggest part of this job. There appears to be a bunch of bolts to remove surrounding where the axle-half goes into the differential-case. (per side) There may be some gaskets to replace during reassembly.

If I had to estamate the job... I would say less that $20 for the parts and under 4 hours of labor. (I take my time because I do not wish to make 'work' out of it)

I encourage you to look at the parts-diagram yourself to see what I mean.
If ya get a minute have a look at this thread, does not sound that bad actually::::: G5200 Rear Axle seal replacement..how to? | OrangeTractorTalks - Everything Kubota
 

BruceP

Well-known member

Equipment
G5200H
Aug 7, 2016
835
353
63
Richmond, Vermont, USA
If ya get a minute have a look at this thread, does not sound that bad actually::::: G5200 Rear Axle seal replacement..how to? | OrangeTractorTalks - Everything Kubota
I COMMEND you on using 'search' to locate a definitive answer to your question. :)

Yup - that is basically what I said it would take.
Certainly something I would personally tackle if leak gets too bad. (Running HST low on fluid is a VERY expensive alternative)

I do not have a hydraulic press so I would have to improvize that part of the task.

It would be ideal if one had an inside space to pull tractor apart and work on it a couple hours at a time over a week or so. (I do not even own a garage so all work is done in gravel driveway or backyard)
 
Last edited: