Fix it or leave it alone?

[Tornado]

I done something stupid this weekend folks. I was using my disc harrow, and elected not to put a bucket or anything on the front of the tractor just to have a little extra more turning room. Everything went well, until I got off the tractor after parking it. I happen to look down and notice I had bent the little bar that goes between the little quick attach plates on the front. I scratched my head and thought back, and could remember a time or two I had pulled up on a tree, and just lightly bumped it before reversing, but we are talking very light bump, and on a small tree that went between the loader arms. Each case I was intentionally trying to move up as much as possible to make a reverse and turn around in a tight area. Honestly in the moment I was not even remembering this little bar, Or I wouldn't have intentionally pushed up into the tree like this, I was also thinking I had all the room up to the bigger cross bar. Looking down at the bent bar though I kinda kicked myself. This tractor has just over 50 hours on it, its still brand new essentially. While the little bend doesn't seem to affect anything at all functionally, it is just annoying the piss out of me and I want to fix it. Would you fix it or leave it alone?

I tried using a 4LB. sledge hammer with a piece of wood to blunt the blow but that didn't budge it, and its hard to swing the hammer at the right angle. I came up with another idea I haven't tried yet but I think it will work - Put one of my big heavy duty ratchet straps around it, and around a big pine tree, lock the brakes down on the tractor and drop the disc into the ground and start ratcheting on the bar slowly. I think this would probably work, at least in theory. I could perhaps even put a length of 2x4 on the back end of the bar that will take the force of the ratchet strap, and distribute the weight along the full bar once it straightens out. One thing I don't want to do is make it worse than it is, by somehow exerting too much force and bending it the other way and further weakening it. Yes I know its very minor, but Its my brand new tractor and I hate seeing that bent bar! From what I can tell the bend is not causing any shift in angle on the quick attach plates. I can still attach my bucket fine and wasn't able to see any visual change in how the plates contact the back of the bucket. It appears to be purely a little cosmetic issue.

 

[flogler]

I would go with the tree idea. I think the tractor will hold if on good ground and the bar will bend before tractor moves.

 

[SidecarFlip]

It changed the geometry of the mounts slightly. Only way I know of to remove the bend is remove the tube and replace it with a new one (weld a new one in). Impossible to cold bend it and have it straight.

Cut it off at the ends and weld in a new one. Paint and be happy.

 

[NHSleddog]

I would fix it so your alignment is dead on.

A piece of channel clamped to each end with a threaded bolt in the middle would screw/bend it back with control pretty easy.

Or the same channel with a block even in thickness to the bend out in the middle and squeeze it together on the end. That will also bend it back with control.

 

[i7win7]

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-heavy-duty-portable-hydraulic-equipment-kit-62115.html

Something like this? 4x4 against front tires.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Roll the dump forward put a 4x4 chunk between the bar and the big cross bar and then in little shots roll the bucket back till straight.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

you can put blocks between tree and tractor,
then use a comealong ties to tree and a 2" strap at the bend.
gently tension the comealong ,being sure the strap is at the bend, then continue tightening the comealong. Pull a few clicks further than 'straight' as it will come back a bit.
BTDT several times....

 

[Tornado]

I would fix it so your alignment is dead on.

A piece of channel clamped to each end with a threaded bolt in the middle would screw/bend it back with control pretty easy.

Or the same channel with a block even in thickness to the bend out in the middle and squeeze it together on the end. That will also bend it back with control.

Another great idea. hadn't thought of this one. I don't have any channel on hand though so would have to get that.

I wonder how straight I can get it with just a really straight piece of 2x4 and the ratchet strap. Initially the wood wont be touching the bar on the ends, but once the bar straightens a little the board will eventually make contact with the full length of the bar. It SHOULD be pretty darn straight I would expect once that happens.

Lot of ideas here. If the geometry of the mounts did change, its so slight I can not see it at all, and I looked really hard at it. The first thing I did was check that geometry because I was afraid it would have shifted it, but I wasn't able to see anything.

 

[Tornado]

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-heavy-duty-portable-hydraulic-equipment-kit-62115.html

Something like this? 4x4 against front tires.

That would open up a lot of options, but I feel like this is solvable without spending that much money.

The more I think about it, the more I feel the ratchet should work if I get the angle of pull just right, and go slow. Put a length of 2x4 on the back side on the bend, then put the ratchet around it, right at the bend, get the angle as close as I can , then start ratcheting. I like NHS suggestion as well using some channel iron, but that would require going to the store. I wonder though if using 2 pieces of channel iron and like a heavy duty c clamp or something would work better.

 

[Tornado]

It changed the geometry of the mounts slightly. Only way I know of to remove the bend is remove the tube and replace it with a new one (weld a new one in). Impossible to cold bend it and have it straight.

Cut it off at the ends and weld in a new one. Paint and be happy.

This would be the most ideal solution but I do not trust my welding skills, and I dont have a powerful enough welder to do the welds properly. If the bend was more severe I would likely be looking at this option however. With the bend being as slight as it is, I feel like I should be able to get it straight enough that its indiscernible to the naked eye. I plan to try my ratchet strap idea this evening and see how it goes. I think getting the proper angle will be the key point with the ratchet. I need to exert the force in the right direction. The bend is not 100% straight on, its at a slight upward angle toward the engine of the tractor when the arms are resting on the ground.

 

[D2Cat]

Put a heavy piece of angle iron about 3' long on the back side of the bend. Use come-a-long around a tree to pull it forward as needed.

 

[Tornado]

Put a heavy piece of angle iron about 3' long on the back side of the bend. Use come-a-long around a tree to pull it forward as needed.

Angle Iron would be much preferred over my board idea for sure, but I dont have any on hand. The board is likely going to be annoying until I get the strap tight enough to hold it but I do worry about the board shifting under the force. I may have to get creative. Ill think on it throughout the rest of the day I may just make the drive and get some angle iron before heading home today.

 

[Magicman]

Turn it 180 degrees and go back to the same tree....gently, a bit at the time.

 

[Tornado]

Turn it 180 degrees and go back to the same tree....gently, a bit at the time.

LOL! I literally laughed out loud when I read this magicman, thanks so much for the laugh. I have learned my lesson though. Ill just put the bucket on next time.

 

[Henro]

It changed the geometry of the mounts slightly. Only way I know of to remove the bend is remove the tube and replace it with a new one (weld a new one in). Impossible to cold bend it and have it straight.

Cut it off at the ends and weld in a new one. Paint and be happy.

Could not help but think Flip's machinist side seems to be overpowering his farmer side at the moment!

 

[D2Cat]

Henro, that's what extended isolation does to the thinking process, causes expensive confusion!

 

[GeoHorn]

I’d put a strong board (edgewise) or steel OR THE BUCKET ITSELF in FRONT of the QA’s and ratchet-strap the pipe forward. That way you can stand right beside it and observe how much you’re moving it (and not rely of tractor-brakes which likely will not hold anyway.)

You may have to slightly over-bend it the pipe to correct tendency not to be absolutely straight.

Therefore do not plan on placing anything behind the pipe because you’ll need to “over-correct”. Put the strap exactly/directly at the “bend” and I’ll bet this will turn out just fine.

 

[Tornado]

I’d put a strong board (edgewise) or steel OR THE BUCKET ITSELF in FRONT of the QA’s and ratchet-strap the pipe forward. That way you can stand right beside it and observe how much you’re moving it (and not rely of tractor-brakes which likely will not hold anyway.)

You may have to slightly over-bend it the pipe to correct tendency not to be absolutely straight.

Therefore do not plan on placing anything behind the pipe because you’ll need to “over-correct”. Put the strap exactly/directly at the “bend” and I’ll bet this will turn out just fine.

You make a great suggestion. I had thought of this. When I rachet it I plan to have the ratchet right near the front so I can watch it. I thought of just putting the strap by itself around the bar, I just felt bracing it felt safer. My biggest concern, and its likely not realistic, would be cracking the welds or somehow causing more damage. The board, or a piece of angle iron, felt safer because once the bar straights out the brace board/iron would then be against the full length ofthe bar, just helping to spread out all that pressure. I went by local hardware store here in town, lil mom and pop shop, but they have no angle iron, so nearest place to get some is out of the way little bit. I will try to do it without angle iron. Ill post some updates this evening with how it goes. Hopefully it just easily ratchets into place and takes no more than 10 minutes and is a no brainer.

 

[Tornado]

Well we got er fixed fellas - atleast, its straight enough you cant see or discern what slight bend may remain. Im attaching the old picture here again along with one I took after fixing it so you can see the difference.

I drove out to a tree, slung the ratchet strap around, got it all lined up, tried to use a board but that was a waste of time - the board kept shifting out when I would ratchet down on it so I just threw it to the side. Went with just the strap. Got it so tight you could play it like a banjo and it still wasnt taking the bend out. I felt I was going to bend the ratchet handle I was pulling so tight to get it another notch tighter. I decided to get on the tractor, crank it up, put it in 4wd and try to reverse, to put more pressure on it. This eventually worked. Just t apping on reverse peddle to kinda give it little jolts. I noticed it was working so jolted it another time or two and then it looked like I was about to start bending it the other way so I stopped there, and it looks pretty good! Im pleased with it. I put a straight edge against it and its pretty darn spot on. It ended up taking a lot more pressure to bend that bar than I expected! Makes me wonder how I ever bent it the first time - I never hit anything that hard....oh well. I feel better about it.

 

[Pau7220]

Roll the dump forward put a 4x4 chunk between the bar and the big cross bar and then in little shots roll the bucket back till straight.

I'm a little surprised no one listened to this advice.
Short story long...
Dump stops broke bending both cylinders, causing left side to leak. Rebuilt cylinder and straightened rod with a press and v-blocks on Friday.
Saturday I disconnected the rod of the right cylinder and turned it upside down. I put a 4x4 under the bent area then slowly dumped the bucket. 2 shots and I got it within a few thousandths.
Yes, dump stops are repaired and reinforced.
Moral of the story: let the machine hydraulics do the work for you.