My f2560 will run in crank position but wont keep running in run position. I have checked fuel pump solenoid and works in run position, fuel transfer - works clicking, ignition switch works fine ( i replaced all these with working ones from another machine) When I turn key to crank position it runs but when i let off to run it stops. Also when I keep crank turned it runs, but when i let off brake will stop even though I hold crank on. Checked contact on brake switch seems fine. Thought i would run a wire to fuel solenoid but it does click on when key turned to run mode. Getting ready to go under and check for bad connections or shorts in other wires. Any advice or experiences?
f2560 will start in crank position but won't keep running in run position
- Thread starter rodgup
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I don’t know your tractor, but the symptom you’re experiencing is exactly what I had come up with my BX 2200. My BX has a two coil fuel cut off solenoid.
In my case one of the coils failed. It was the hold coil, which is energized the whole time the engine is running. The other coil is a pull in coil, which actually causes the solenoid to shift position. That is the one causing the clicking Sound.
Once the engine is running, you likely won’t hear the solenoid de-energize and go back to the stop position if the hold coil is not working.
If three wires go to the solenoid chances, are you have a two coil solenoid.
I don’t know anything about your tractor, so I’m just offering this as some food for thought…
In my case one of the coils failed. It was the hold coil, which is energized the whole time the engine is running. The other coil is a pull in coil, which actually causes the solenoid to shift position. That is the one causing the clicking Sound.
Once the engine is running, you likely won’t hear the solenoid de-energize and go back to the stop position if the hold coil is not working.
If three wires go to the solenoid chances, are you have a two coil solenoid.
I don’t know anything about your tractor, so I’m just offering this as some food for thought…
OK thanks, i actually didnt swap that one out for a known working one i just heard and saw the post retract when i turned it to the run position. So i kight swap it out to verify also.
In my case, it is possible to remove the solenoid and see if the tractor starts and continues to run. But if you do, you need to hold it back in place to shut the engine down.
Your set up is likely different than I described, if the solenoid armature retracts in the run position of the ignition switch. In my case the armature retracts in the start position, and then stays retracted in the run position. It does not move when the key is initially turned to the run position.
So I removed the solenoid and it starts and runs. i put the solenoid back in to stop it. I ordered a new solenoid and put it in but it does the same thing again. I suspect ill have to start tracing wires and shorts from the ignition switch back to the solenoid.
You will have a timer relay hidden and built into the combination box. It keeps power to the solenoid for a few seconds to allow the engine to stop.
According to the WSM the Combination box is usually the culprit.
Dave
Depends on what solenoid you have. If it’s the single pin external solenoid then below will help you determine if it’s faulty. If it’s the 3 wire version that’s internal and has the pull hold feeds then above will help. Going by the thread title I’d imagine you have the internal 3 wire pull hold solenoid. It seems to work when cranking but will cut out as soon as the key returns back to the run position. You need to make sure there is voltage going to the hold pin.
The relay has 4 pins, you can remove the connector that goes to it and test it to make sure it has voltage going to it, you can also remove the relay and bench test it just to be sure but going by what you are saying it’s more than likely faulty.
It has a 12v constant feed, a switched 12v feed, a ground and then the one that goes to the solenoid. If you remove the connector and test for constant 12v, switched 12v and ground then this will tell you what pins to test on the relay itself, then you can bench test it. I did this test a few weeks ago just to confirm a faulty relay on a B2150. I applied constant 12v, ground, then applied 12v to the switched feed, I had set up a test light on the pin that would feed the solenoid and when I removed the switched feed there was nothing at the test light, I did the same test with a known working one and when you remove the 12v feed the test light came on for 5-10 seconds.
The relay has 4 pins, you can remove the connector that goes to it and test it to make sure it has voltage going to it, you can also remove the relay and bench test it just to be sure but going by what you are saying it’s more than likely faulty.
It has a 12v constant feed, a switched 12v feed, a ground and then the one that goes to the solenoid. If you remove the connector and test for constant 12v, switched 12v and ground then this will tell you what pins to test on the relay itself, then you can bench test it. I did this test a few weeks ago just to confirm a faulty relay on a B2150. I applied constant 12v, ground, then applied 12v to the switched feed, I had set up a test light on the pin that would feed the solenoid and when I removed the switched feed there was nothing at the test light, I did the same test with a known working one and when you remove the 12v feed the test light came on for 5-10 seconds.
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Dave those tests aren’t for the relay which gives power for a short time after switching the ignition off, those relays are for engines fitted with the external solenoids where they are activated for a short period once the key is turned off.
The tests you’ve posted are for a pull and hold solenoid which has 12v constantly applied for the hold function when the ignition is on and a short 12v supply for the pull function when cranking.
I cannot argue with you.
I just went to the F2560 WSM which I happen to have a copy of.
Perhaps the "E" after 2560 makes this difference.
We have seen on another model from Scotland that the controls are different than North American models. It was L2800, L3400. Here is a link to the Scotland model from Kubotabooks.com
Kubotabooks
I never understood why.
The red text is on the manual from Kubotabooks.com.
My only point in all of this is to point out that different countries sometimes use different safety controls.
Dave
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It’s working. Never assume your new fuel solenoid comes wired right. Black and white wires were connected wrong. Switched them around and she fired up and stayed running. Weird it would start with them opposite but not stay running. Thanks again gentlemen for all your help.
North Idaho Wolfman
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