Dead B6200 starting circuit

[flowerlvr98]

Purchased a B6200 2WD in May 09. Unit started okay. After buying operator's manual and reading how to properly start the engine it started even easier. Someone (me or stepson) left lights and flashers on after draining the battery. After recharging battery the tractor became hard to start but did start. Tractor sat for a month while I recovered from back surgery and upon initial start up unit was slow to turn over. Battery back on charger, unit turned over but didn't start. Jumped with car and finally got it started. Old battery would not hold charge and replaced old battery with new one with 770 CCA.

Unit would turn over very sluggishly. I did not want to jump it at that time due to new battery. A few days after heavy rains I went out to start the tractor and had a nice spark show from the negative battery terminal.

Since the spark show if I turn the key to "on" the oil and charge lights light. If I turn to "start" both lights go off and and there is nothing, no solenoid clicks or anything. If I turn key to "preheat" again nothing.

I have ensured that the battery cables are good, clamps tight, connections clean. I have 12.59 V at battery and also at starter terminal.

I removed tape from the wiring at starter up into dash. Near the fusible link at starter I found that the red wire from starter to ignition switch and from switch back had some insulation removed. That doesn't seem right.

I used my volt meter and tested these red wires. I have 12.5 V at each.

What can I do to bypass the ignition switch? I have had the starter tested and it is good. I thought of a "hot wire" but only terminals I find on starter are the terminal that the battery lead goes to with the red wire to ignition and the clutch safety switch.

Thank you.

 

[flowerlvr98]

Thank you,
I have replaced the entire negative cable but result is the same. I have 12.59 V at starter and 12.59 V from starter to ignition switch. Somewhere either in switch or what ever completes the ignition circuit there is an open that is causing my system to be dead.

Right now my oil/charge lights do not light.

 

[flowerlvr98]

Checked my voltage at the ignition switch with voltmeter. I have 10.5 V on the red "hot" lead from the starter. Should this be 2 volts lower than what the red lead indicates at the starter?

To complete the starting circuit does power run to ignition switch via red wire, then to the black/white wire to the clutch safety switch and finally back to the starter?

 

[Ob1kubota]

Welcome flowerlvr... Picking up on this problem without your electrical schematic will be alittle more difficult than normal so be patient with me.

Your battery start circuit should see battery voltage at the hot side of the ignition switch. If you are seeing a drop of 2.5 volts and the battery is fresh and fully charged you have a high resistance to ground in your red wire back to the postive post on a negative ground style starting system. This circuit must be fuses by the law of physics ( and OEM tort laws ) for fire protection. Therefore, I recommend tracing back toward all connectors and terminal boards, fuse block, harness connectors, even through any load (current drawing ) components toward the positive battery post looking for full battery voltage.

The simple way and (not recommended way) is to use needle spear style voltmeter leads that can penatrate the conductor jacket ( dielectric insulation ) on both sides of a terminal block, load or harness where naturally occurring vibration during operation would tend to break down the wiring jacket where corrosion and tears can form over years of current flow and vibrational movement.

Lets us know what you find and make a post to help others.

(OB1 quick check Hint) [ Remove all leads from your ignition switch and put your multimeter range selector in R x 1 scale and look for any reading as you change pole (contacts) positions across the switch for less than full condition continuity. Work Ohms Law on voltage drop with any DC valves found if you choose to work under load and with 'hot potential' ignoring the above resistance check.] Note... any polarity change within the switching of contacts means internal corrosion/erosion of poles and the switch must be replaced.

 

[flowerlvr98]

An update, I used a remote starter device (hot wire system) between the battery feed to the starter and the starter solenoid. The engine turned over albeit sluggishly. At one point I got a spark from the alligator attached to the solenoid. After that the remote starter would not work. I then jumped the starter with a screwdriver and the solenoid engaged.

I want to remove my ignition switch. After I removed (carefully diagraming wire positions) the wires I noticed the back plastic of the ignition is cracked to the point that the internal area of the switch is compromised.

How do I remove the ignition switch from the dash board of my B6200.

I do so enjoy the little thing when it is running.

thank you Ob1 for your input. That is next weekend's work if the weather holds out.