B2650 suddenly won't start

BetterThanAShovel

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Yes a starter switch from amazon 21 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/Remote-Starter-Switch-Heavy-6V-12V/dp/B08XBP69Q5/ref=sr_1_3?crid=32Y9IVXFXOSFA&keywords=starter+switch&qid=1648674144&sprefix=starter+switch,aps,674&sr=8-3

But you could grab a old screwdriver or a bigger insulated wire and touch the big terminal stud from the battery to the male spade terminal on the starter.
I am such a big chicken, I hate the sparks. :cautious: I'm certain I'd end up grounding the wrong thing. However...if I can identify the wire powering the starter, then I can at least measure if voltage appears on it when I turn the key. That will tell me that the safety switches aren't preventing power, and it must be the starter. If I turn the key and no voltage appears...then it must be the safety switches.
 

rc51stierhoff

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I am such a big chicken, I hate the sparks. :cautious: I'm certain I'd end up grounding the wrong thing. However...if I can identify the wire powering the starter, then I can at least measure if voltage appears on it when I turn the key. That will tell me that the safety switches aren't preventing power, and it must be the starter. If I turn the key and no voltage appears...then it must be the safety switches.
I have had similar symptoms with atv and motorcycles (gas vapor lock may be very different with a diesel) before…not sure the same thing but have you recently filled with fuel and or opened the fuel cap…not sure that is you issue or that diesels are similar in how they deliver fuel…simple check to make sure not a vapor lock. I would not think diesel would do that though. Fuel soak / expansion can happen with fuel injected gas products. Diesel I am not sure?
 

RCW

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Before you throw a bunch of parts at it, rule out the battery first.....

Safe bet is have it load tested at an auto parts store. Jumping the starter is another option, but the tractor can kill you if done improperly....you're wise to be cautious....
 
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cthomas

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On my tractor(LX2610) the starter has 2 big studs and a male spade terminal. If you unplug the spade terminal and install your test light it should be bright when trying to start. Then with the key off at the spade terminal on the starter apply 12 volts to it(long wire to the battery positive). The starter should turn the engine over.
 

sheepfarmer

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You can get those manuals electronically, sometimes free) or in paper format from the Kubota website, or from your dealer by email or thumb drive, or from Messicks.
 

bird dogger

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That's very generous. I would LOVE to get/buy a WSM for this tractor, I fully want to do the work/repairs on it for anything. I know the LX2610 is kind of the spiritual cousin of the 2650, so I'd love to take a look at it. If things look on the tractor like it says it should look in the manual, then I guess it's right! I'll send you a PM.
If you message me an email address, I'd be happy to share my PDF version of the WSM for my B2650. Mine was purchased 2019ish.
David
 
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bird dogger

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That's very generous. I would LOVE to get/buy a WSM for this tractor, I fully want to do the work/repairs on it for anything. I know the LX2610 is kind of the spiritual cousin of the 2650, so I'd love to take a look at it. If things look on the tractor like it says it should look in the manual, then I guess it's right! I'll send you a PM.
Email sent to you with some manuals/schematics. Enjoy!!
 
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Rollover Rudy

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B2650
Feb 7, 2021
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3
Northern Indiana
I had exactly the same issue last year and through all the step and checks suggested here. Ended up being the HST peddle switch was bad. Afterwards, I was told it’s pretty common as it’s not well protected and get lots of cycles.

B2650 allows for starting without being in the seat and the fact your dash lights and glow plug indicator Illuminate when they should tells me the ignition switch is probably just fine.
 
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BetterThanAShovel

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So, progress (or more accurately lack of it). The entire goal for today was...get it into the garage. it's supposed to rain all day and besides not wanting my tractor to get wet (ya, I loves it too much) I wanted a clean/dry/lit place to do the troubleshooting instead of in the woods.

The tractor died pretty close to the house and up a slight hill. I figured that I could pull it into our garage with the 4wheeler. I removed the forks and attachment and used the trick of putting it into float, then levered the loader arms up and knocked the lever back to neutral, and yay, it was now floating above the ground.

I then threw a strap around the front of the loader arms and onto the back of the 4 wheeler. I put the tractor transmission in neutral and had my wife ride the brake down the hill with me "pulling" from the front. boy that was fun, but nothing got hurt. I then had to make a sweeping left turn on our driveway into the garage. That went REALLY well, and we ALMOST got the front of the tractor into the garage....when we ran out of momentum and the 4 wheeler tires lost ALL traction on the stupid smooth garage floor (and of course, being rain wet didn't help). There's a gentle incline on the driveway all the way into the garage, so we decided to roll back to a more level area to try and get some momentum going...but no deal, 4 wheeler couldn't even get it moving at this point.

Soo...it's now at least on the driveway (thankfully not blocking it), which is a better place to work on than the ground. It'll have to do.
 

85Hokie

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ea to try and get some momentum going...but no deal, 4 wheeler couldn't even get it moving at this point.

Soo...it's now at least on the driveway (thankfully not blocking it), which is a better place to work on than the ground. It'll have to do.

Keep us posted - so that WHEN you "fix it" - that piece of knowledge can be used for others here!

I hope for your sake it is something veryyyyyy simple!
 
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BetterThanAShovel

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Keep us posted - so that WHEN you "fix it" - that piece of knowledge can be used for others here!

I hope for your sake it is something veryyyyyy simple!
Ya, me too.

I'll definitely keep this updated as I test things, and when the thing finally fires up again, I'll definitely update. This forum is SO great with help, that posting the learned knowledge for the next guy is one of the few ways I can give back.
 

dirtydeed

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I think you need to start from the basics again. Check fuses. Then check battery connections. Then turn the key to start while slightly moving pto lever, hst pedal. if still nothing, then jump the starter solenoid.

Take a look down underneath at the safety switches. maybe the levers aren't making contact with the switch plug, or they aren't adjusted in/out far enough to completely compress the plunger.
 

BetterThanAShovel

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B2650, BH77, SG0660 grapple, pallet forks, Bobcat 60" box blade
Oct 5, 2021
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Houston, we have the problem!

safety_switch_b2650.jpg


Thanks to all your help, I knew exactly where to look for the treadle pedal safety switch, and once I crawled under the right side, the switch was immediately obvious, as was the problem! I has clearly slid out over time so now the metal part doesn't depress the switch at all. I pressed the treadle pedal which moved the metal tab, slid the switch back over, finger tightened the nut, released the pedal, turned the key, and it roared to life again.

Unfortunately, my problem isn't quite resolved yet. I slid the switch back over...but no wrench I owned was large enough to tighten that nut. I decided I'd finally just use an adjustable jaw wrench on it...and the area below this thing is too tight to get a 2nd grip on it. Same with a crescent wrench. I'm guessing I'm going to have to purchase a socket deep enough and large enough to fit over the switch, but I'm skeptical there's room for a socket and socket driver in there. So...a box wrench maybe?? I'm definitely flummoxed by it. But at least the tractor is in the garage now!
 
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Rollover Rudy

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B2650
Feb 7, 2021
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And an O-ring brought down the space shuttle. For the most part our Kubotas are bullet proof, but there are chinks in the armor. Glad you found yours. Get it adjusted and get back in the saddle.
 
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dirtydeed

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Bingo. you got it.

a pair of channel lock pliers is in your future.
 

Chanceywd

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Houston, we have the problem!

View attachment 77501

Thanks to all your help, I knew exactly where to look for the treadle pedal safety switch, and once I crawled under the right side, the switch was immediately obvious, as was the problem! I has clearly slid out over time so now the metal part doesn't depress the switch at all. I pressed the treadle pedal which moved the metal tab, slid the switch back over, finger tightened the nut, released the pedal, turned the key, and it roared to life again.

Unfortunately, my problem isn't quite resolved yet. I slid the switch back over...but no wrench I owned was large enough to tighten that nut. I decided I'd finally just use an adjustable jaw wrench on it...and the area below this thing is too tight to get a 2nd grip on it. Same with a crescent wrench. I'm guessing I'm going to have to purchase a socket deep enough and large enough to fit over the switch, but I'm skeptical there's room for a socket and socket driver in there. So...a box wrench maybe?? I'm definitely flummoxed by it. But at least the tractor is in the garage now!
A picture was worth a thousand words! Made me smile to see you figured it out!

Bill
 
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bird dogger

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WooHoo!! With the money you're saving doing things yourself you can now justify starting a nice basic tool collection!
After seeing your picture.....the first thing on my list tomorrow is to go out and check my HST pedal switch.
 

ejb11235

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BX23S, Braber BBR4G 4' Box Blade & LRM5G 5' landscape rake
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Houston, we have the problem!
Looks like the rubber boot is a bit chewed up too ... do I see a hole in it? If so, you might want to replace the boot if you can ... help keep water and muck out of the switch itself. Like Bill, it made me smile to see you found the problem. So satisfying. I suspect that you can get the switch tightened up sufficiently with just a single box end wrench. Grasp the switch body with your left hand and use your right hand to tighten the nut on the right side of the bracket.
 

ejb11235

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I just did some quick checking ... here's a link to the exploded parts diagram, available on Messicks.com. I also attached the PDF to this message.

I think your switch is assembly #060. The boot is #080.

 

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